Steveolyo

I'd like to find a blue colored prop knob for my M20F, but I cant seem to find one. N1395W mentioned he was changing his out for a blue one. Anyone know where I can get a blue one for my plane?

Oh nice. I wouldn't mind switching the face to knots.

I did try sucking No Dice on that. Any recommendations on a shop to send it to? Thanks.

During our annual for our 1969 M20F we were testing the gear retraction and had to apply pressure to the pitot tube. Apparently we applied too much and now the ASI reads about 30mph while the plane is at rest. Is there an adjustment to zero the ASI or do we need to remove it and send it somewhere for servicing? Any help would be appreciated.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmpOlgvrPTQ&feature=youtu.be Here's a video of the motor in action.

It freewheels? Do you mean it disengages from the worm gear? I don't understand how that happens at either end. If it disengaged then what will cause it to reengage. Pawls only allow one way turning like a ratchet, so it would slip or freewheel in one direction but not the other. If the motor or gears somehow disengage at the end of the worm gear then that is pretty ingenious. I'd like to see how that works. Maybe I'll take a closer look next time I take off the belly panel.

#2: Switch did not fail to spring back. Switch is held until either at full flap during final or flaps up after takeoff. Because there is not limit switch, the pilot may hold it down or up for a 1/2 second or so before realizing the flaps are at the end of the gear limit. Small amounts of this error over time amount to a lot, but without a limiting switch the overrun has to happen to some degree.

Its a 1969 F model. Strange that it has no limit switches like yours. They must have added them later. It must have a clutch of some kind which allows it to slip after the limits are reached because the motor still seems to spin after those limits are reached. You can hear it whine, a strained whine, but a whine nonetheless.

I reattached the shaft, adjusted it for 33 degree max deflection and tightened the small set screws on the side. The female side of the shaft has two very small allen set screws opposing each other. Those should hold it from coming off again. Here is the shaft reattached. Curiously, there is not limiting switch to prevent you from holding the flap switch on and putting pressure on this shaft, which in time could loosen it when it is at the limit on either side. I will make sure not to keep the switch engaged when the flap is at the limit, but I think it should have a limit switch. I guess the electric windows on most cars work the same. There is no limit switch to stop the motor once the end of the working area has been reached.

And on the worm drive side with the motor, well that shaft was also hanging unattached.

So when I removed the belly access panel (30 screws by the way!) I found the flap drive shaft was hanging.

Thanks! Without the limit switch could it unwind the worm gear all the way off? That is probably what has happened. I'll report back with pictures.

The Electric Flaps won’t retract on our 1969 M20F. The motor still hums like it is still spinning but the flaps don’t retract. Also the white indicator mark in the cockpit has slid out of sight. A few weeks ago I noticed that the motor would still hum even when flaps were either at 0 or 33 degrees. It may always have been that way, we've only had the plane 7 months. I don’t know if there is a stop switch that is supposed to prevent the motor from trying to go beyond 0 or 33, but if there is, the switch hasn't been working which could be part of what has led to this failure. Does anyone know where to look to inspect the motor and shaft? I think it’s a belly panel since it wasn’t the area behind the luggage area where the battery is located. Thanks.