M20Kid

Just bumping this thread. I need an overhead cover for my M20K and I don't have the tech skills to create it. I have a printer available if someone could design the part I need. I found software that you can just take multiple photos of the panel and it will make the file, but I haven't been able to even get that to install. Really, I am pretty tech savvy most of the time. Any suggestions for someone new to 3D printing?

My understanding is that nobody will overhaul a GB engine without converting it to an LB. My current understanding is it's a minor change and the GB is no longer supported. If they can return the engine in ANY timeframe, then they MUST have some of these V Band clamps in stock in the overhaul shop. Hoarders ...

I'm stuck in this V-Band clamp murk now. I've called, texted, emailed - everyone. The only supplier with stock is asking $3000 each now. Ram says no more until at least March 2026 and Continental is still in certification on their own replacement. With nobody currently producing them and the supply in the market dried up, I just don't know what to do. I have one on back order at Air Power, but they took my order at Oshkosh 2024 (Yup, over a year ago and haven't shipped to me yet). If anyone have a spare sitting around, I will gladly replace it when mine ships from Air Power, or any of the other places that all say they can get one - someday. Or buy it from you outright. By the way - RAM 2177-300 or Continental 653332. Thank you!

Correction - ASAP Aerospace in Anaheim CA. That's the place that said they had new $3000 V Band clamps.

Hey ad5ut, I'm in the same boat as you (and everyone else who got caught by this AD). I also have an M20K-231 and, as far as I know, I can use the PMA part from RAM. That part is listed in the AD as an acceptable replacement so hopefully there won't be any issues. I did find exactly one for sale the other day and that one is coming to me in the next few days. I've been looking for a friend who has a Seneca and needs 2 for his, but so far no luck there. That said, I did find a supplier in San Diego that said he had three new clamps that he would sell for $3000 each. I pushed back because the retail price from RAM is $1355 and I don't like anyone charging I-got-you-over-a-barrel pricing. If you're willing to pay that price I would recommend calling them. I didn't keep the email or I would tell you the company name. Apparently they supply parts for the military and wouldn't even talk to me until I could prove I live and fly in the US. Interesting place. Best wishes!

I finally got the wiring done correctly by calling Paul at Weep-No-More. I've had him reseal the tanks on my Mooney in the past and know he's an expert at Mooney fuel tanks and systems. His advice was straight forward and easy to follow. Now my gauge is working property. Thank you to all who helped make this happen. In short, the outer sender is installed as a ground and the wire from that sender to the inner must be attached around one of the isolaters so it doesn't get grounded, too. Pretty easy when you know what to do.

Thank you, Lee - that's exactly what I was hoping to find!

Mike, the older planes needed more gas. Mine is supposed to be accurate down to 1.5 gallons, which is considered unusable. I wouldn't plan to fly with such a low fuel level, but I'm doing the gauge calibration and you only put in small amounts at a time. When the gauge didn't respond, I quit putting in gas. 37.5 gallons per side would be full in my plane.

Is that shop still doing interior work? I'd be interested in at least visiting with them to get a quote.

Thank you! That seems a logical place to start. We'll be at the hangar on Saturday trying to bring some life to this thing.

The fuel tanks were drained completely. After adding unusable fuel, the new gauge give a resistance reading. After adding fuel, that resistance level should increase - it doesn't. It reads as if the tanks are empty regardless of how much fuel is added. The outboard senders don't move until the tanks have over 25 gallons and right now there is only about 3 or 4 gallons in each side. The outboard senders could have a grounding or other issue, but their lack of motion could not be a factor with this small amount of gas.

The gauge shows output at about the level I would have expected based on previous attempts to calibrate the gauge, it just doesn't change as fuel is added. Both sides respond the same - flat. No new wiring was added; only original wires reattached after installation.

I spoke with Hector recently but he didn't offer much hope. Mine is in pretty poor condition with pieces that attach the headliner near the front windshield broken off. I've had a couple of shops, including Hector, tell me it's too far gone to repair.

I thought it should be pretty easy, as well. But my mechanic figured out how to do it wrong. I tried to calibrate a new gauge after having the senders overhauled and found the senders were not responding to fuel when added to the tank. Sigh ...

Thank you, Scott, those were my thoughts, too. Mine does have the eyeball vents. I guess I should call Vantage and ask them - they may just know.

The headliner in my M20K is in pretty bad shape. I've tried all the avenues I know to find a new one, but keep coming up empty handed. Vantage Plane Plastics has a headliner for a M20J that's the same year as mine and looks about the same. Does anyone know if this is actually interchangeable with mine for an M20K? Alternatively, does anyone know where I can get a headliner replacement actually made for my plane?

I just found the M20K electrical system schematics for M20K planes posted in the Download section. I downloaded that and sent it to my installer. If there's something easier to use, I would appreciate that, too.

I just got all 4 fuel senders overhauled for my M20K-231. My mechanic reinstalled them, but there appears to be a wiring issue. He doesn't have the wiring diagram and we putting it back together from memory; which appears to be flawed. Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the fuel system that they could send? Mine is a 1981 M20K-231, if it matters. Thank you in advance!

Did you fly through any clouds or rain? I find whenever I fly in visible moisture, the "smoking" is heavier and longer.

I have a Sidewinder for my M20K, but it has a 2-blade prop. I did find the guy who makes them to be knowledgeable. Have you checked with him to see if he's had any issues with your particular configuration in the past?

I was out flying for the past several days and didn't see the responses. Thank you for the assistance! I'll get this information to my installer and hopefully he can use it to get things working properly again.

I have an '81 M20K and I just installed this new fuel gauge https://www.aerospacelogic.com/engine-instruments/fuel-level/resistive-float/two-tank-fuel-level/ After installation, my "Low Fuel" lights are illuminated on the annunciator panel all the time regardless of the fuel level. My installer isn't sure why, but obviously the circuit is not getting what it needs. Does anyone know how the "Low Fuel" light is wired? And to what? I also need to send the fuel senders to Air Parts of Lock Haven to get them overhauled. They're not quite right and this new gauge wants pretty good information. Has anyone had that done before? I'm just checking to make sure it's work the time and money.

Thank you all - I'll look first for anything that has an inline fuse; that seems a reasonable place to begin. TMO - you're right, tracing it back from the main panel would be difficult and not a job I'm going to take on myself. Now finding a loose wire or blown fuse near the battery seems an easy enough task. Hmm ...

I have an '81 M20K and the clock suddenly stopped working when I changed the ships battery some time back. Assuming the death of the clock was unrelated to the ships battery I just left it alone. Talking to my mechanic, though, he brought up the point that the clock is hardwired to hot battery because it runs all the time. He thought maybe the wire that powers the clock may have come loose during the swap of the battery. Excited, I pulled the cover off the side of the plane to look for any loose wires around the battery. What did I find? Nothing that looked like a smoking gun. Can anyone help me identify the power lead for the clock? Where does it connect to in the mass of wires running to the battery?

Looks great! Like others I really like the beak up front - very classy. I'll look for you next time I'm in Sedona!