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N7149V

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Everything posted by N7149V

  1. I have about six of the 2N2016 transistors that I bought as spares when I repaired my dimmer switch panel and I will be glad to sell them for what I paid for them to anyone that is in need of them to get their Mooney panel up and running again. I also have the factory detailed schematic that is not in the Mooney maintenance manual. The transistors cost $45 ea. plus whatever it costs to ship them. I found that they were almost impossible to find unless you wanted to pay $124 for one. Hope this helps someone get their Mooney lights working again. Jim LaVore 305 731 6418 cel.
  2. There are 152 transistors that are the 2N442 equivalent transistor according to the Bipolar transistor cross reference search that I did on the internet, so these are much easier to duplicate.
  3. These are the 2N2016 equivalent transistors according to the Bipolar transistor cross reference search that I did on the internet. 1. 109T2 2. 2N2016 3. 2N5560 4. BDY58 5. BDY58R 6. BLX26 7. BLX27 8. BLX29 9. BLX30 10. BLX35 11. BLX36 12. BUR50 13. BUR50S 14. BUR52 15. BUT13 16. BUT13P 17. BUT14 18. BUT15 19. BUT16 20. BUT33 21. BUT34 22. ESM16 23. ESM16A 24. ESM16B 25. ESM18 26. MTC35-300 27. ZT2016
  4. This site won't attach the M20F dimmer switch sub panel electrical schematic PDF file. This schematic would be a great help to most of the Mooney owners with problems in the sub panel. Any suggestions?
  5. This schematic of the Mooney dimmer switch lighting sub panel is the schematic that covers my 1974 Mooney M20F and others including a lot of M20J's. I got this schematic the other day from Bill Wheat who designed this sub panel for Mooney about 40 years ago. I just need to find the proper transistor equivalents and to find those F-01 fuses from another source. Mouser website says you have to buy a minimum of 48 of them at $21.78 each or $1045.44 for the order! Still trying to resurrect my dimmer switch sub panel. The 2N2016 transistors seem to be the ones that burn out in the sub panel and take one or both of the F-01 fuses with them.
  6. I have the schematic for the dimmer sub panel for my Mooney M20F. I got it from Bill Wheat who designed the panel for Mooney. I have it in a PDF file but it wouldn't attach to this reply properly. Contact me and I'll send it to you. I am having the same problem with my panel lights. Also the up and down gear indication lights will not illuminate either. I checked all of the diodes and replaced a two that were bad. That didn't fix the problem though. Radio shack has the diodes for $1.69 for two. They are the 600V 1 amp diodes that are in the panel. I checked my rheostat and it works according to my meter, but no power is getting to it to light the instrument lights when I reinstall the panel. The gear up and down lights won't light with the press to test, but the other warning lights will light up. I have searched for broken wires but have not found any. Also found one of the F-01 gray cap fuses on the back was bad. Where do I get those fuses? And how do you test the transistors? Where can I get the transistors or equivalent one?
  7. I just replaced the landing light on my M20F. The prices for the bulb, a GE 4522, 250W 13V were all over the place. The retail for the GE bulb is around $111, but most places sell it for around $68. Aircraft Spruce had it for $30.95. Chief Aircraft Parts had it for $26.50! Take the co-pilot lower side cowling off for easy access to the screw fastened attach points on the bulb. Remove the front lens, remove the retaining ring, it has some very small self tapping screws that I would suggest replacing with stainless steel screws of the same size. If the screw holes are worn out, then I would go with the next size larger for all of the screws. There is a rubber gasket on the back side of the bulb. Make sure it goes on the back side of the new bulb and not between the bulb and the retaining ring as it is supposed to provide some shock absorption. Also, some mechanics say to mount the bulb with the element vertical as opposed to horizontal. Their theory is that shock from a hard landing or such is not as likely to break the filament that way. I guess it's a good idea, but I don't know for sure that it will make the bulb last any longer. These bulbs usually last at least 25 hours of burn time, but can last twice as long or more burn time. Hope this info helps you when you replace your landing light.
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