seebruce

Has anyone tried Aeroseal to seal weeps?

ovation0219, Did those engines that went all that time have factory new cylinders at overhaul?

That's pretty much it. Hopefully the rest of the guides were done properly.

That's pretty much it. Hopefully the rest of the guides were done properly.

I talked with the shop this morning. They told me that they see this problem all the time with Continental cylinders. They are of the opinion that it is the use of inferior material at the factory. I had the same problem with my Seneca cylinders which were also new factory cylinders built back in 96 when it was known that Continental produced a large number of cylinders with bad guides. I would have thought that they would have solved that problem by now.

I've heard this before. I can see how this would be true for the intake, but I can't see how it would lubricate the exhaust valve guide.

These were factory new cylinders. They are at the shop for repair right now and I haven't discussed the condition with them yet. I kept the CHT on the hottest cylinder between 350 and 375. The plane came from Arizona so I don't think cold starts are the problem.

My planes in for annual and found 2 cylinders with worn exhaust valve guides on the TSIO 360LB Continental. I've been running LOP for about 20 hrs since I bought the plane.The cylinders have only about 260 hrs on them. Has anyone that's been running LOP experienced this condition? I'm wondering if this is just a coincidence or if LOP is causing excessive ware in the guides. From what I was told the previous owner only ran ROP. The compressions were fine at pre buy. But I have experience this before when the valve will seat correctly when tested and give good compression even though the guides were worn.

Does it seem like you must push the top of the pedals excessivly far before they actuate the brakes?

Yes I'm still following the thread. I had the rod ends on the master cylinders adjusted so the pedals don't need to rotate as far front to engage the brakes. It helps with the braking but feels strange because the top of the pedals are always slightly depressed and pushing back againsed my feet.

I did disconnect the power plug from the plane. Are you saying that the solenoid will energize when the power cable is plugged in with out any power to the cable?

Mystery solved. I noticed that when I tested my annunciator lights the start power light light didn't come on. I assumed that this light should come on when I used the external power plug when jumping a dead battery so I hooked up the external power cables to a battery charger to see if the light came on. When I turned the charger on I heard the solenoid kick in. The light didn't come on. When I disconnected the power cable I didn't hear the solenoid kick out. I thought it strange so I reconnected the power cable. This time I didn't hear the solenoid kick in. So I disconnected it again and still no click. I then went to disconnect the battery cable to check for a currant draw and noticed that when the battery cable lost contact with the terminal the solenoid clicked. It turns out the auxiliary start solenoid is not dropping out after being energized hence draining the battery. Anyone have any idea how the solenoid can stay energized after the power plug is disconnected?

Do you know if the 3" mod requires a 337?

Amelia, Can you tell me if the 3" plans show all the bracketry that is shown in the pictures on eBay?

The extensions on eBay don't look like my rudder pedals. There is a lot of extra bracketry bolted to them. They must be from a early model or they were field modified. I believe the extensions are merely flat plates about 3/4' wide that uses the existing holes in the side of the pedals. I wonder if Amelia could use a digital camera and take a picture of the drawings and post them. Just a thought, might work.