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mooniac

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  1. made my own with a paint stick, here's how: empty tank, add 2 gal fuel, mark stick, add 2 gal fuel, mark stick... repeat until tank is full, you might want to pad the bottom of the stick so as not to damage the bladder. enjoy
  2. Quote: mooniac58 Even on the ground the yokes fall to the right when you release them.
  3. Is the ball centered on your T/C when you hold the the wings level with the yoke and your feet are flat on the floor?
  4. on my 63', there are only two hiem bearings to adjust in the wing, one at the aileron bellcrank on the rod coming out from the fuselage and one on the short rod connecting the bellcrank to the aileron. Rigging is started by working down from the yokes then outboard to the bellcranks. The links under the floor are intentionally offset to the right 1/8 inch when the yokes are neutral. The long wing pushrod is adjusted by measuring the position of the bellcrank relative to the rear spar and the aileron pushrod is adjusted by using a travel board. Not hard ,but you really need a travel board to set both ailerons equal. I actually made mine by copying the profile of the wing at the aileron inboard edge onto 1/4 inch plywood. Any chance the heavy aileron is really heavy being filled with some residue from the stripping/painting process? duh, actually it would be the opposite aileron filled causing the roll wouldn't it?
  5. Damn you're good, although I wonder when you find time to sleep... you seem to be on duty 9 AM east coast time... which would make it either very early or very late your time. Good luck with the new interior install. Ralph
  6. Craig, Do I have to view all posts to clear them from the "new post" bin or is there an easy way to mark all posts as read? Thanks for the good work! Ralph
  7. 721lp, yep, those numbers match what I get in my 63' C model, same engine I assume O-360-A1D
  8. that's a good point, but most leaks are usually caused by a failure of the sealent as to a structural or sheetmetal problems. Your choice is to reseal or patch. A full reseal could still leak, a friend of mine flew from Dover to Florida three times to fix his full reseal and it was AFTER the new paint. A full reseal is much more invasive to your new paint. A patch job, however, requires you to find the leak and can usually be fixed by removing only one access panel. You might want to chat with your paint shop and see a touch up paint job is going to look as good as it looks now as some paints are much harder to blend repairs; epoxy paints can be real tough. Also, look into your tank filler with a flashlight and if you see a red color on the floor of the tank, it probably is a 1005-L rubber top coat used to protect the sealent. This must be removed to insure proper adhesion of any patch, then a new top coat applied. Ralph
  9. I'm not sure if you are suggesting a second coat of sealent on top of the old sealent, but 20 minutes is pretty darn quick for a complete reseal. I don't recomend extra sealent beyond the existing fillet to patch a leak that maybe isn't there. Ralph
  10. Craig, I have uesd the "Don Maxwell" method to sucessfully patch a small leak and find it very effective at accuratly identifying the leak. I used vacuum controled with an fish quarium style air regulator and an old altimiter to create a slight negative pressure. The soap suds bubbled away just as Don says it will. Also, I am not a believer in a complete reseal just to fix a leak. In my world of C-5's with huge tanks, 49 thousand gallons worth, a reseal is out of the question and some of these tanks were assembled in the late sixties. I don't suscribe to the opinion that old sealent is necessarily bad or that dry tanks causes much of a problem either. We routinely run our extended range tanks empty unless needed, but when used, they don't leak. Finally, if flying very heavy weight ops making tatical landings in combat conditions at 750 thousand pounds gross weight dosen't make a tank leak, landing on grass with a Mooney isn't going to either. Just my opinion. but I just don't see spending lots of money fixing a leak. All this being said, if you can get the leak fixed and feel better about a reseal as to a patch, go for it. I really like the paint shop's willingness to repaint the area. That is a nice looking paint job and you need to be happy for a long time down the road. What say the experienced Mooney guys, patch or reseal? Ralph
  11. One more idea for the list... A "remember me" option on the login Ralph
  12. Ralph from Dover, DE. I have been the prowd owner of a 63 C model, 6797U, for 18 years. I'm a 55 year old retired Air Force Chief who flew C-5's for 33 years. Now I work part time teaching aircrews in a flight simulator, think really big... it seats 7. Married, wife is a pilot too, two children, one girl 11 and one boy 14. Both love to fly! I'm an A&P, but all my experience is with large jet transports so I depend heavely on the Mooney guys opinions, hope they join soon. Anyway, my hat's off to Craig and I hope this site really takes off.
  13. Welcome to Chippster1, lucky you to be so close to Wilkerson's BBQ Ralph
  14. Craig, I like what you are doing with the e-mail notification of new posts, but I think once a user becomes comfortable with using this site, he will find the feature redundent and turn it off. I would prefer a tab for "new post since last login". This gives one a go-to page to check on whats new in any discussion. Along with this, though, would be a tab for marking all posts as read to clear out the new message file when one is through reading posts of interest. This feature has become my first stop when loging in to a forum. Quetion about login: If I leave the site while still logged in does the site still see me as logged in? Ralph
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