elehman3

Will do. Thanks. I think this "may" be the issue. They are going to look at the connectors to the flap switch, and follow the wiring to the connector(s) and clean them next.

Thanks for the update. I wasn't exactly sure what year or make. I've only been around it once, and didn't get to look thru the paperwork on it. My dad is the one who "helped" her acquire it. I'm here to help in what way I can, and let the A&P and them do the work. I am just trying to find how and what would need to help them and point them in the right direction. Like you said, I just don't want to start to throw parts at it, and really figure out where the issue is. I get it, it's a 50 year old plane, with 60's technology. Just like some of the EM pinball machines I've been around, there is just that one part that causes the issue, and sometimes it just takes moving the right wire to find that bug. Now that I did a little more research it is actually a 1975 M20F.

I am not trying to resurrect an old topic. My daughter "acquired" a 1975 M20K. Two weekends ago her and her instructor made a 4+ hour round trip so she could get her hours in "her" plane. Her mentor, Rick, noticed that the flight took longer then planned, and they were not achieving proper air speed. Once they touched down at the airport she uses and hangers her plane they did their walk around and noticed that the flaps were still in 15. So they flew it to where her Rick's hanger is here in Temple. Rick and his mechanic looked it over. They removed the panel to the flaps motor and cleaned all the switches as stated in this thread. I went by the next day to see if I could help. I am not an electronics engineer, but do have some skills of working around pinball machines, arcade machines, 70's-90's computers, and model railroading. I've always been fascinated with many things electronic. I have been scouring the internet (GTSing (Googleing That Stuff)) about this issue with her plane for days. That is what led me to finding this thread, and group. I did find the wiring diagram that is posed above, but it is not 100% readable. We did take the connections off the relays and switches and cleaned them with CRC, and fine sandpaper. Rick also has been on the net looking things up, and he does have some access to service manuals, etc. He was able to find the part numbers for the relays and I was able to get a diagram of the relays. They are DPDT 12v 25A. After removing one, Rick did take it apart and found that there was a lot of corrosion in and around the coil. Using his "connections" he was able to get 2 replacement relays. They got them installed this weekend, but the issue continues. Like everyone above has said they will go full and retract, 15 but no retract, etc. So what my questions are, is there any "newer (modern)" replacement parts for the relays and the micro switches? And what are our next steps? Is there a way I can get a better wiring diagram of the flap controls and the flap motor controls? Using the data sheet for the relays I did find TP96P7D22-12 as a possible replacement for the relay and are about $25 each. Also from this post I did find the V3L-3 microswitches on a few electronic vender sites. Digikey and Mouser both carry the microswitches, but at $160 each, I want to make sure that this is where the issues are. Thank y'all for the help. Tex-Hogger