Matthew P

It's really a basic aerodynamic principle.. on a go around you already have the additional lift of the flaps so what is it that's holding you back...the drag of the gear...so I really am perplexed as to the point of the original question...by reducing flaps first, you are reducing an element of lift and thereby increasing drag....

I found a guy on marketplace that had a set from 15 years ago...call Don Maxwell, he seems to be able to find them for people until LASAR gets something figured out..

Don't overcomplicate it...set your prop, twist mixture till rough, add a couple turns till roughness goes away and you are good...come out to be about the same as reaching peak EGT and adjusting to ROP since you are not an IO360

Just be advised, if you are using resin and fiberglass over the plastic that it will delaminate over time

LASAR will be the ones that deal directly with Mooney's (former) vendors for parts and in the example you gave, Mooney would be considered a vendor and LASAR would go to them for the parts they still produce.

If you know a good fiberglass guy they could use the original piece to make a reverse mold out of it and make you a fiberglass replacement.

It’s for those individuals that have checklists. Lots of checklists. Hard copies and digital checklists on their iPad and phone BUT still can’t seem to follow their fugging checklist. But it’ also for those who do follow their checklist to let them know that during those critical phases of flight, where the checklist calls out for turning on the fuel pump, that their electrical fuel pump is/isn’t working and therefore, if it isn’t then you have no backup in the event the mechanical pump fails…

Have you flown one with a YD?

Remove the other one, use it as a template, go buy a piece of lexan and there you go

Following the checklist would rectify that

I understand that....he wanting to know how to start the aircraft as he has no means of priming it due to the electric fuel pump being inop.

Not sure what else you are having done, but I got the gfc-500 with both pitch trim and YD and by the time everything was done, the change in aft CG was negligible, especially if you DON'T put 10lbs in the hat shelf area.

For my 1965 M20E, start checklist, you turn on the electric fuel pump, push mixture in for 5-7 seconds to get fuel in the lines/cylinder, turn it off, pull out mixture and then start...

Probably referring to priming it with the electric boost pump.

LOL, some work a little slower than others, no reason to RUSH into anything someone must have done something to bring the post forward....BUT, if he's still looking for an aluminum binder, this should help him out