generalaviationguru

We just did an entire strip and repaint. Work seems good and sharp. Only found one piece of missed tape! Though we are newly hangared at home, we are concerned about what to do when away. The paint shop says (obviously) to avoid using the covers as they can mar/scratch. This is of course due to entrapped dirt. Same issue with car covers. I don’t think we can get by without the tail cover due to repeated birds nests deep in the tail (F model). Does the lightweight cover from Bruce’s Covers reduce the chance of marring? Does it have the same water resistance?

Thank you for your detailed response! I spent lots of time in that range, as the engine overhaul was done in 1999. The primary upgrade to “J” was done in the late 1970s, per the STC paperwork included. I see the same regarding 1984. I’ll dive back into the logs once my day flying job allows me back home. Given the bondo (I didn’t initially recognize it, as I’ve never worked with the material), I agree with you on the risk of working with it. Further agree on the risk of trapped water - I won’t belabor my previous gripes about being on the ramp despite being promised a hangar - big dilemma. We’ll have to think this one through until we can get this thing repainted. Frustrating - the gentlemen who parks next to us has a 1967 E with ORIGINAL paint and it looks fabulous. Airframe is lower TT though. But similar number of hours on the paint. I wish this paint wasn’t showing so much failure.

I agree whole-heartedly. That’s why we want to use our resources wisely and target the full paint job while protecting the metal in the meantime.

I agree. I’m just thinking ROI. Each incremental mile of travel for a temporary fix adds sunk cost. It’s more so the expense of travel taking away from the long term goal of a full paint job. Hawk is on the short list for our full job.

From 1967? I haven’t seen any original F’s with this scheme….

The previous couple of owners only had it for a few years. Google picture history shows that this paint job has been on prior to them. I just can’t find the logbook entry for it (if it’s there) I am currently looking around for a shop to get on the list for a full repaint. Would be open to looking for a local place for a minor repair like your describing - a long trip for a touch up seems excessive. Any suggestions in the ATL region?

When we purchased our aircraft, we noted that there were minor pieces of missing paint around the meeting area of the fuselage and cowl. Now we are noticing accelerated flaking of the paint, and more severely, severe cracks and complete separation of the paint layers from the underlying aluminum. What would cause this to happen and what should we do while we build the paint job fund? The cash account took a big hit from an annual that was nearly 2x the expected cost Is it better to leave it alone, and let the paint continue to fail on its own? Or physically remove it until we get to strong paint, prep the bare aluminum and rattle can (this is not a control surface obviously). This paint job is not original to the plane. Though we have original logs, I cannot find when and where it was done. In 3000 hours I have seen many planes (including airliners) with ABYSMAL paint, but I’ve never seen it start to come off in sheets. The first picture vs. the picture with no cowl are a few weeks and about 10 hours flight time apart. The problem is getting worse…

Ours was pretty bad. Near having holes. The ‘67 (ours) design was the weakest (slowest flap speed limit). before Repair:

I’ll keep that in mind for next time! Thanks

Great stuff! Ours was not that severe, so fewer steps and no patches. But those are fabulous instructions.

Our pilot’s seat armrest was completely unusable and cracked all the way around. Since the interior was removed for SB208 and 20-217 (future post coming on 217 - it was BAD), partner and I went up to work on interior. I learned from Mooneyspace that we are dealing with ABS plastic. So, I decided to restore it and used the following practice: 1. Order new ABS plastic sheets from Amazon. Cut into bite-size pieces. (I don’t suggest eating!!) 2. Soak plastic pieces in acetone a clean glass jar (don’t plan to ever use this jar again), so the just enough acetone to cover the pieces. 3. Soak will take 3 hours to overnight. You should have a paste consistency in the jar. Too watery?— add plastic pieces. Too stiff? — add acetone. (remember to remove armrest pad, placards, etc. before continuing) 4. Use a cheap paint brush from Walmart to paint on plastic to the ENTIRE backside of the panel. Once layered on, allow 1-2 hours to dry before next layer. (You’ll want 3-5 layers for strength and flexibility) The acetone will partially break down and allow permanent bond the new and old plastic. before 5. On the front side, I did several thick layers in the localized areas of stress, mainly around the armrest, for added strength. This stuff stinks. So make sure you have great ventilation and/or a respirator. 6. Sand and paint per typical procedure AFTER 24 hours cure time. Don’t be stupid and impatient like me and get bubbles!! I took the panel to Lowe’s before starting to get paint matched. I wish I had a better before picture of the armrest. It’s hard to see, but it was cracked worse on the outboard size and was cracked almost all the way around. We are currently planning to pull the rest of the fragile interior panels next annual and refresh and paint the entire interior. This isn’t an extremely time consuming project and is WAY cheaper than a new interior. Just thought I’d share. Any ideas to do it better? Hampton

Yes sir! It's getting quite the TLC in the annual right now. I've got some cool pictures to share in future posts. Like Aft Stub Spar repair, refurbished carpet, renewed side panels, degreasing, etc. We were lucky you flew it so much! There are some other planes in the shop that are in for a while from neglect...

45 minutes away no traffic.

FYI our F (J engine - A1B6) developed this same behavior. Upon investigation, a worn out, brittle, near-failure 25 year old fuel hose was the cause of the fluctuations. Normal flow, engine performance, but pressure repeatedly bled into the red and had to be brought back up with boost pump.

Wow! Never heard of the alien turbo thing. That’s a bit out of my price range… I’m still on FO budget…..