AdamJD

Unrelated but funny recent story. I had work done on my throttle cable. On departure, lifted off, pull the J-bar out to raise the gear and the damn horn is going off at full throttle. I fly the plane to 1,500 and then stick my finger in the gear down block to silence the horn. My gear horn breaker is the automatic / flush kind that can't be pulled to stop the horn. So now what? Fly for hours with my finger in the hole? Turn around and land? So I crumple up a piece of paper and stick it in the gear down block hole. Upon arrival, slowed down to gear speed, took the paper out, locked the J-bar in. Landed and later explained to the newish-to-Mooneys mechanic how to adjust the micro-switch correctly.

I need to move... +1 for RPM. Just finished my second annual owning the plane. The first was done at a MSC. It was expensive, but that should have been expected for a first annual. However, there were a few things done without asking and a few things done half-assed that I should have pushed back on. First airplane ownership rookie mistake. My second and most recent annual was with RPM. Everything is explained and discussed. The base "cost" is in the 30ish hour range. It's a small business, so selfishly I hope you don't all go to Byron for a winter annual as I want to preserve my spot. But the experience was great. Right up until he removed a cylinder for a planned replacement and borescoped the cam shaft. But that's another very painful story...

@Neshi, as of a year ago, you could display multiple misc fields on the GI275 ADI. See below for a pic from a friend of mine's F. HOWEVER, I couldn't configure mine this way because I have the GFC500. The command bar for the GFC500 is the reason. I was bummed. My solution is to display TAS on the ADI, winds on the HSI, temp on the GFX345 and GS on the 430W.

Bought my first plane - an M20F 18 months ago from a private seller. I'm based part time at GAI (where I've flown for 20 years) in a tie-down and fly often. I also have a good friend and CFI based at CGE, but not a Mooney CFI. I did my transition training with a Mooney CFI out of GAI - there are several and mine was good. PM me if you want to chat about my experience through the purchase, training and maintenance. PS - One good thing about GAI is the Mooney community there. Along with RPM, there are 7 or 8 Mooney owners who actively communicate. It's a good resource of like-minded pilots and owners to share and learn from.

Check out Mooney M20 Parts Manual - Parts Catalog Page 247, Fig 58 Cowl Flap Closure Control System. When I bought my F, it had a new engine mount installed as part of the sale. When they installed the engine mount, they reinstalled the cowl flaps incorrectly to the point that my cowl flaps barely opened. And the ball joint connected to the control arm on either side didn't have enough adjustment to fix it. The cowl flaps are actually mounted to the engine mount and can be significantly adjusted by loosening the nuts on both sides where they connect to the engine mount and raising or lowering on the lower arms of the engine mount.

Replaced both sides. Don't have SoS - my previous left mag was impulse. Two shop hours to replace the harness.

Haha! Careful what you post if you don't want the feedback. This plane is new-ish to me. Bought it in 2022. 1st - Buss vs. Bus: Not sure how this plane has passed annual all these years! Lol. 2nd - A/P w/ TC: My guess is that this was because of the Brittain PC and Accutrak system. The adjustment for the Accutrak was actually done with a knob on the T/C. So I think my T/C is a special one specifically for the Accutrak. Both the PC and Accutrak have been removed and I now have a GFC500 on a breaker on the avionics bus (one S). 3rd - Aerographics: Thanks for the recommendation! I'll check them out. Thank you all!

I have a M20F which had the mixture and prop in the "wrong" configuration, Throttle - Mixture - Propeller. I replaces all cables with McFarlane cables and put them in the correct order - Throttle - Propeller - Mixture. However, I had to re-label these to be legal. Right now, these are cheap maker labels. Does anyone have advice on how to get some sort of stencil to match the original labeling? See below for what the labeling looks like for my circuit breakers. This is what I want to replicate. Thanks!

I just listened to "Ask the A&Ps" podcast episode 4 with Mike Busch, Colleen Sterling and Paul New. They address this exact question. The answer was, there is NO benefit to pulling the prop through in either direction. In the opposite-than-normal direction (backwards), the pump moves backwards, so you are adding no oil. And you are likely scraping oil OFF of the cylinder walls. In the normal direction, you are at risk for starting the prop and causing personal harm if you have impulse coupler and you are still scraping oil OFF of the cylinder walls. So both directions are a negative. If you have a radial engine, then there is another reason for pulling the prop through. I assume your Mooney M20R is not a radial engine.

FYI - had this done a few months ago. New harness for a Surefly and Bendix mag combination. Maggie Ignition was responsive and quick to ship. No issues. Christine at MI was super helpful.

Thank you!

First, I love this step actuator. Removed my vacuum, but still wanted the few knots. So I bought one. And, let’s be honest, the retractable step is one of the more unique features of our older Mooneys! I decided on a dedicated “step” switch when I had mine installed and after 100 hours of use, I think that was the way to go. It does come down slow. So being able to put it down after pulling off the runway ensures I don’t have to wait for the actuator to finish when I’m trying to find a bush after a long x-country, if you get my drift. I had my installer put three switches side-by-side. STEP - ALT - AVIONICS. So on startup, checklist item is for all three switches up. Then my clear of runway checklist has Step Down. But worst case if I forget, it would go down when I turn my STEP - ALT - AVIONICS switches off prior to shut down.

Thanks Hank. I have the '67F which has a different yoke than the '75F. The 75F has the round emblem. The 67F has the triangular emblem. @TheTurtle had printed a bunch of these on metal several years ago. Does anyone have one of those to spare?

I missed these by 5 or 6 years!! Bought my F last year and have the sticker on the yoke right now. Need to upgrade that. Anybody have any of these laying around?

I thought the servo upgrade was supposed to help with oscillations. That's not the case?