tcal780

I'm planning a trip to NJ this Friday morning and leaving Sunday morning. Temps will be around freezing for the duration. I have a new sump heater I plan to use for the first time since install. The airport is about 30 minutes away from where I'm staying. Instructions state 3-5 hours for a cold soaked motor, but I'd prefer not to make two trips or get there early and wait that long. I know keeping an engine heated for an extended period of time is no bueno, but are there any good reasons not to just plug it in when I get there and leave it on for the duration of this 2 day trip? Thanks, Tcal

Thanks 88V! The final invoice was $2500, but I spent probably $3k total because I ordered two sets of acrylic templates over the duration of the project. First, was a two piece set based on the original L&R panels. Then, I pivoted to a one piece design, made some instrument placement adjustments, and asked for the second acrylic template to be sent for final fitment and markup. As mentioned above, the original plan was to go with a two piece, but I ended up changing to a one piece for few reasons: 1) The original radio rack rails (which are also the center panel supports) were turned into swiss cheese from all the alterations over the years and I did not want to remake them. Superior could rivet new radio rails right to the panel, which is what I did. 2) The location of the original supports restricted available space on the left and thus, less flexibility to design a clean layout. I recall struggling to keep the EDM900 there while keeping the G5's centered on the yoke while working on the two piece layout. Plus, I had contemplated flush mounting the G5's and the EDM which would have required more space for those instruments, exacerbating the problem. Ultimately, I ended up choosing the panel mountings 3) Simply, the one piece reduced overall complexity. Your impression of 4-5k is probably in line with a panel that includes their premium labeling/graphic options that could easily push the cost to 4-5k, but those weren't for me. I just elected for the simple gray with white labeling. Tcal

I have a 5 year old RCAllen I removed for my G5 if you still need one.

It's a great feeling to get back in the air with this awesome panel and the new shiny stuff. My son and I spent a billion hours on it, but learned a TON. I need to fine tune the EDM900 fuel flow, engine HP%, and work out a few bugs with the interface between the GNX375 and the EDM900. The carb temp probe is also not working right. I still have the interior panels to put back in, too. Some of these panels are new replacements so they have to be trimmed, but that seems like a good job for January or February. For now, I'm just focused on getting familiarized with the new setup. First trip planned is to HHI in a couple weeks.

Hi All, My flap switch broke. Shockingly, the shop is having trouble trying to source part number 12TS147-20. Anyone know where I can find one or if there's a suitable PMA replacement momentary switch?

Thanks all. I think ill make an electronic PDF version for my ipad/foreflight for quick reference and get a flexible plastic binder to keep a hard copy in the plane. While I'm the only one flying it, it's probably still best to have the hard copy for backup and avaliable for ramp checks.

My POH binder is getting a little tired. Plus, with all the supplements and continued airworthiness pages, mine is packed. What are y'all doing for POH binders? I know most of us rarely need to open it, but it would be nice to have a more durable replacement. I was trying to find an aluminum binder, maybe 1.5" rings, but there doesn't seem to be much available. Tcal

+1 for kx-155.com. Awesome to work with. If you can wait 6-8 weeks, I recommend them. They did a great job on my 165.

I have one off my 70C if you're still interested.

Thank you!

I didn't reach out to JPI support yet, but I can't find any information on what USB adapter is needed to connect a USB thumb drive to an EDM 900. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks, Todd

I removed the guts of the clock and use the existing plate for a 1" ram mount

Sorry, I don't have a wiring diagram for the original dimmer assembly.

I do appreciate all the work you put into this. I was hopeful for an alternative solution. Unfortunately, you got the ol', "Good job, buddy. We'll take it from here." I mean, Mooney and Lasar could have done this all along.

That's my point.