Cruiser73

I am hope one of the great Mooneyspace pilots who has access to Jeppesen IFR approach plates would be willing to send me a few specific ones as PDFs? DM me if you can help. Thanks

Thanks everyone for the good advice. Nothing has changed in the panel years but iwill definitely check it on the ground with and without the engine on.

I read about servicing a whiskey compass but it seems it is done for leaking or slow turning. Should I have mine serviced or look for magnetic interference?

Yesterday while flying with a safety pilot to practice a few approaches, ATC gave me vector of 020. I turned to 020 and a few minutes later he called to confirm I was on 020. I doubled checked my heading indicator to my compass and my safety pilot agreed we were on 020. The control asked if we were fighting a wind because he said it looks like my heading was more like 040. My safety pilot then turned on AHRS on his iPad and confirmed we were on 040 heading. Question can a compass fail like this?

I have an old panel that is due for some upgrades but trying to band aid it until I am ready for the full project of a new panel. The glideslope on my KI214 isn't working although the LOC is working fine. The local avionics guy on my home field said the KI214 had some issue and that is why they moved away from the internal GS receiver and starting doing the remote GS receiver like the KN75 with the KI209 CDI. He suggest just finding a used KI209 and KN75 but the receiver would have to be mounted in the rear and nose/tail wiring installed. As we continued to discuss the solution I mentioned my Brittain Accutrak Autopilot. I told him that it still works and i would like it to continue working until the full panel upgrade. This gave him pause because he said the KI209 like many more modern CDIs uses 5 volts for the needle instead of the much lower voltage on the KI214 that the Brittain AP is expecting. He said that when Brittain was still around they could upgrade a board to work with the higher voltage. The avionics guy seemed every knowledgeable so I'm not trying to second guess him and is lifetime of expertise, but are there other solutions? He thought I might be better to look at fixing the KI214 or find a working replacement. Sorry for the long explanation. #1 Is anyone driving their accutrak with the KI209? #2 Anyone have a working KI214 just sitting on a shelf in the hangar? Thanks for reading the post and any thoughts.

I have considered this option. The 530 I found is about half the cost of the 355. But the install cost would be similar I am sure.

Thanks for the photo. I see you have your transponder in front of the passenger. I have a Garmin Aera 560 there and it just for my wife to be able to see our progress. If I moved my transponder to that location it would give me extra space in the stack.

I could used some feed back on my idea. My panel is dated with non-ifr Garmin 300XL and KX-175B for VORs and ILS. I really want to fly my plane for my IFR training(staring soon) but with out waas I would be missing out all the GPS approaches. I would like to do a full upgrade to glass but that is a few years out. I found what appears to be a good deal on a 530w but the physical dimension is an issue. I would like to replace the KX-175b with the 530w and keep the 300xl for backup comms but the 530w is so tall it appears I would have to remove the 300xl from the stack as well. My 300Xl is stacked on top of my KX-175B so both would have to come out to make room. Would a single comm radio a deal breaker?

Sorry for responding to an older thread but thought someone who had addressed this might be able to help. I have a 1968 G with the knob/dial, the last few weeks I noticed it getting harder to rotate. Yesterday the tension was gone so I rotated will no resistance. I can open and close the vent by hand so I assumed the cable broke at the knov/dial end in the cabin. Opening it was a real pain in the butt. I can see the cable isn't broke but can get a good view of the top side. The cable seems to be sliding through a something that should be cabling it. There doesn't seem to enough length to get a good look at it. I am thinking I need to tight it but can't tell if it is an Philips head or Allen? An ideas or explanation why it is slipping and/or how to tighten it? Thanks for reading.

Sorry they are gone.

I purchased the shoulder anchor kits from alpha aviation for my M20G. The passenger side was easy to get around the tubing but the pilot side has an aluminum piece that is screwed into the tubing leaving no space to slip the bracket on. I believe obstruction is L shaped aluminum that is riveted to the skin and connects the skin to the tubing with a fews screws. Suggestions??

Do to some unfortunate events I have the wrong cylinders for my plane. I have 4 NEW Superior narrow deck cylinders part number SL36006N-A20P for sale. I am trying to avoid the restock fee so I am willing to give a discount from original cost. DM for more info.

Not sure how to photograph it well. My mechanic says the only way forward is new cylinders. I feel like I am out of options.

This is common? The Lycoming rep sounds like he had never heard about it but the rep isn't an un-intetested party. He would need to CYA and would want more Lycoming parts purchased. That is why I was asking the question here. I guess I have the same question as Greg Ellis. Does this condemn a cylinder? Is it common is it something that can be monitored. Or is it so dangerous it needs to be done NOW?

I have a mid time O-360-A1D engine. The IA doing the annual while checking for exhaust leaks found small pin hole porosity between the some fins near the exhaust port. The pin holes where found when my mechanic connected a shop vac to the exhaust pipe to pressurize the system and sprayed a soapy solution on the exhaust system to look for bubbles. There were bubble between the fins and we confirmed several times by drying the areas and retesting. But all four cylinders have a similar amount of porosity in almost the same location and to me finding it on all four cylinders seems highly unlikely. He believes these might be the original cylinders and they should all be replaced. The compression was 79, 78, 78, 78 so I was please until the news that all the cylinders need replaced. The Lycoming rep said porosity is bad which I understand but it is difficult to say how long this has been an issue. Do I just do the cylinders? Thoughts

That’s makes sense. But it starts the slippery slope G5 and better GPS, etc….and soon it have spent more on avionics then I did on the plane.

I have a KX175b with CDI and GS. I would like to more upgrades down the road but the G5 and GI275 are quite a bit more than a used HSI. I think in a few years I could spend $15-20 making more modern but until then I would like some more capability. I have GDL 82 for ASBD out and GDL39 ADSB in. it isn’t clear if they will interface with the 300xl. I think there maybe too many generations between my stuff and the current stuff. thanks for the responses and opinions.

I am planning to start my ifr training and the more I study I realize my panel with one VOR is going to be challenging. Current panel: Garmin GNC 300XL, KX 175B w/KI 206 vor/loc/gs. Garmin gtx 327 transponder My panel is still shot gun layout and I would like to put it in the more common 6 pack layout. The 300xl isn't connected to an Hsi or cdi so it can't be used for gps approachs. My thoughts are to purchase a used HSI and GPS annunciator panel. The HSI would replace my heading indicator and should make my 300xl legal for gps non precision approachs. I think the an HSI would be nice feature anyway. It would be nice if the 300xl wasn't just gps and com. My stack doesn't have room to add another nav/com. Do I really need two navs if I have gps approach options? If so does Garmin make the 300 size with nav/com/gps? Sorry for the rambling.

Thanks for the info. In the picture above does the leather look damaged to you?

Hey All, I just had my boost pump overhauled and need a few parts for the mechanic to reinstall it. The two elbows that come from the fuel lines have O Rings and what looks like a flat gasket or washer. I have the parts catalog for my plane and the P/N is AN6291-6 "Ring, backup". I have searched all over and this is a leather gasket but i can't find it anywhere. I am still waiting to hear back from LASAR but I read an older post that they had them. LASAR's website doesn't list that number any more but has a similar P/N AN6291-8 but wrong size and out of stock. I thought there might be an alternative but I can't find anything. Suggestions??

I know that Top Gun and LASAR are Mooney specialist. I just know that specialist in any industry are usually extremely busy and generally more expensive but usually for good reason. When I tried to get a Mooney specialist shop to do a pre-buy they told me it would be 8-10 weeks until they could fit it in. Have you found that their pricing is reasonable?

Noticed a fuel ring to the left of my nose wheel. Did a little reading on the forums and someone recommended turning on the electric fuel pump, let it get up to full pressure and then turn if off and check the fuel pressure after a minute. My pressure was back to zero before the minute was up. The second picture highlights where it is streaming from but it isn't the fuel sump. My wife shot the video and she said it was dripping slow until I turned on the electric fuel pump and slowed again when I turned it off. Someone at my home airport said the booster pump is bad. Is the term "booster pump" the same as "electric fuel pump?" Does this mean the seals on my electric fuel pump/booster pump are bad? I was going to remove the cover to get a closer look but the nose wheel cover is in the way of half the screws. Is there a way release the wheel cover without lifting the plane and swinging the gear up? Sorry the video is sideways. drain.mp4

Sorry for responding to an older post and I was hoping to "hijack" the thread for a minute. I am a new owner to a Mooney M20G and I don't have a mechanic yet. I have an minor issue would like to have checked by an A&P. My home airport is KSAC so I was hoping some of the local Mooney Drivers ( @Smith813 @201Mooniac @Jetrn@thinwing @spectre6573 @Joe Larussa @mech_IFR @RobertGary1 @Flash ) could chime in and recommend a few A&Ps that they trust? I have heard about LASAR and Top Gun just wondered if might be some more options. Thanks

I just wanted to say thank you to everyone who added to this topic. It is awesome to have such a good group of active contributors.

Thanks everyone for the input. I flew several patterns today with just holding it through the turns and it does seem work ok but I think I in the future I will consider a disable switch.