Cruiser73

That is really helpful thanks. It looks like 1/8" NPT is standard on the back of steam gauges as well.

Thanks you.

I have but it isn't obvious what size or type but it does look original.

One more question. Attached is the diagram for changing the tee location between the static ports in the fuselage. The tee connector circled in red is the drain. Is there a special part number for the tee? Is it just another 64x3? Can anyone confirm the 3 is for 3/16?

Thanks all for the responses. I will get the parts ordered.

Hey All, Just had to replace my altitude encoder, after ATC asked "say altitude" on a couple of flights. My mechanic works closely with the radio shop and they said we needed to do a "simple leak check." This was how it was described to me. Mooney's have two static ports on either side of the fuselage, cover one with tape and the another use putty to create a seal around one end of a long piece of tubing. Next position your self to see the altimeter and provide suction to the end of the tube until you are at 1500' indicated on the altimeter. Plug the tubing end and watch to see that you don't lose more that 100' in a minute. Well mine wouldn't hold the 1500' for more than a few seconds. So I guess there a is leak. Looking at that system I realized there is a drain under the fuselage. So just to see if it might be leaking I covered it with putty and tested again. Better but still not good enough. I checked all the connections to the gauges but still couldn't find an obvious leak. Finally came home and reviewed the repair manual(doesn't mention the drain) and the parts manual. That is when I found there are two drains on my plane. The other up on the under side of the pilots wing. I think that one might be the culprit. Finally to my questions - If the drains are causing the leak can they be replace or repaired with new o-rings? Is it difficult to do? The parts manual has the o-ring part # AN62270-3 aircraft spruce has this - O-RinGS AN6227B-3 MS28775-008 but not sure if AN6227B-3 is the same as AN6227-3? is it easy to replace to fix a leaking drain? Thanks for reading!

Super simple to use, just text to turn it on or off. I used this for my oil heater, so I would text and hour or two before my scheduled flight. The oil would warm up nicely as I drove to the hangar and made for much easier starts. I used this for a couple of years before I figured out it wasn't really necessary for my climate(and i figured out how to start my mooney). I have already done the work to wire it up to a 110v connector so just needs a sim with cheap plan and it is ready to go. I used a prepaid sim with Tello at $5 a month. I would only paid for a few months during the cold weather. Any questions hit me up. Thanks for looking.

I am hope one of the great Mooneyspace pilots who has access to Jeppesen IFR approach plates would be willing to send me a few specific ones as PDFs? DM me if you can help. Thanks

Thanks everyone for the good advice. Nothing has changed in the panel years but iwill definitely check it on the ground with and without the engine on.

I read about servicing a whiskey compass but it seems it is done for leaking or slow turning. Should I have mine serviced or look for magnetic interference?

Yesterday while flying with a safety pilot to practice a few approaches, ATC gave me vector of 020. I turned to 020 and a few minutes later he called to confirm I was on 020. I doubled checked my heading indicator to my compass and my safety pilot agreed we were on 020. The control asked if we were fighting a wind because he said it looks like my heading was more like 040. My safety pilot then turned on AHRS on his iPad and confirmed we were on 040 heading. Question can a compass fail like this?

I have an old panel that is due for some upgrades but trying to band aid it until I am ready for the full project of a new panel. The glideslope on my KI214 isn't working although the LOC is working fine. The local avionics guy on my home field said the KI214 had some issue and that is why they moved away from the internal GS receiver and starting doing the remote GS receiver like the KN75 with the KI209 CDI. He suggest just finding a used KI209 and KN75 but the receiver would have to be mounted in the rear and nose/tail wiring installed. As we continued to discuss the solution I mentioned my Brittain Accutrak Autopilot. I told him that it still works and i would like it to continue working until the full panel upgrade. This gave him pause because he said the KI209 like many more modern CDIs uses 5 volts for the needle instead of the much lower voltage on the KI214 that the Brittain AP is expecting. He said that when Brittain was still around they could upgrade a board to work with the higher voltage. The avionics guy seemed every knowledgeable so I'm not trying to second guess him and is lifetime of expertise, but are there other solutions? He thought I might be better to look at fixing the KI214 or find a working replacement. Sorry for the long explanation. #1 Is anyone driving their accutrak with the KI209? #2 Anyone have a working KI214 just sitting on a shelf in the hangar? Thanks for reading the post and any thoughts.

I have considered this option. The 530 I found is about half the cost of the 355. But the install cost would be similar I am sure.

Thanks for the photo. I see you have your transponder in front of the passenger. I have a Garmin Aera 560 there and it just for my wife to be able to see our progress. If I moved my transponder to that location it would give me extra space in the stack.

I could used some feed back on my idea. My panel is dated with non-ifr Garmin 300XL and KX-175B for VORs and ILS. I really want to fly my plane for my IFR training(staring soon) but with out waas I would be missing out all the GPS approaches. I would like to do a full upgrade to glass but that is a few years out. I found what appears to be a good deal on a 530w but the physical dimension is an issue. I would like to replace the KX-175b with the 530w and keep the 300xl for backup comms but the 530w is so tall it appears I would have to remove the 300xl from the stack as well. My 300Xl is stacked on top of my KX-175B so both would have to come out to make room. Would a single comm radio a deal breaker?