tomatl

My 231 had a quite some surface corrosion on the yoke rods. With a bit of work, this was polished to a "like new" mirror-like sheen. I would expect that high gloss steel surfaces deteriorate, particularly in moist climatic conditions. (Corrosion on structural aluminum components is a different story.) I wonder if there is a good way to protect the rods going forward.

Yes, thanks! The beneficial effect is that the spring is stretched more and can move freely, which - in line with your suggestion - fixed the issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We have identified the cowl flap problem and fixed it. The Spring was attached to the firewall at the wrong point - moving the bracket one whole to the left (closer to the exhaust) fixed the problem. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks, very helpful! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I run the TIT at around 1500 deg. My CHT, with closed cowl flaps, were never above 375 deg, for all flight situations that I experienced. The problem arose with the new cylinders and the fiddling of my mechanic with the cowl flaps. Next time I fly, I‘ll open them up a bit in closed position, such as suggested by Dan and see what happens. How do you run your engine in cruise? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks Dan! Making the adjustment you suggest for the summer is probably a good idea.

Hi Dan, Sounds like. Problem is the local Mooney Service Center does not know how to do that. The cylinders should be fully broken in by now (12+ hours). After my first experience of the high temperatures on #1, they sealed off all the gaps in the baffling with black sealant (was not needed before the cylinder change). This resulted in a drop of temperatures by about 10 degrees. Instead of 410, it kept going up to 400 at 75% and low altitudes with cowls closed. (Could not trail b/c that does not work right now.) Now I am at 380, with the latest fiddling. Perhaps it was the probe that was not properly grounded b/c they "forgot" to screw it in fully? I thought the oil cooler was on the #2 side (left)? #2 is actually my coolest running cylinder. Cheers, Tom

Thanks Dan, That's precisely how it was before I got the plane back. Now, I cannot move the knob out further, and there is also no "over center" effect. I have the LB with Intercooler, Gami Injectors, and Merlyn WG. Never had a temperature issue before replacement. When I got the plane back, even after run in, temp on #1 kept creeping up to 410. Yesterday, I flew to the shop to have the cylinder inspected again. We cleaned the injectors, which had some worn out rubber gaskets (wonder why they did not see this when they put the new cylinder in), and the CHT probe was very loose, which was tightened. On the way back, #1 temp was a bit better, about 380 at 75% power at 3000'. I have to check at altitude ...

Will do, thanks so much!

It's is a 1984. I don't have the powered cowl flaps/sensors, etc, just the simple push rod that operates the scissor/spring mechanism manually. Somehow the mechanic must have inadvertently made some adjustments. When I picked it up, the flaps also got pulled out from the fully closed position, then after further adjustments that worked again, but the trailing position has been disabled since.

I agree with all these points. I really loved the CFIs at the MAPA training, and I will attend another one (my goal is one a year) this September. Everyone with a Mooney should attend these. If anyone knows of a good "Mooney CFI" in Western NY, I would also appreciate a hint. Always happy to refresh training. My issue, however, is not that I don't know how use my cowl flaps (at least I think I do:) but that they started to behave differently after I got the plane back from the shop last months after replacement of two cylinders. They don't stop at the trailing position any more and unless they are fully in, are pulled out in flight to full open, judging by the position of the lever. (Also, after cylinder replacement, cylinder #1 appears to be running much hotter than before, so in combination not an ideal situation.) I did consult the service manual but that does not address this situation either but just explains how to adjust the lengths of the rods. I did learn though, that the trailing position is aerodynamically triggered, and not adjustable continuously as I had thought previously. The underlying problem is that in my part of the country we don't have any shop truly familiar with Mooneys. No, I don't take my 911 to a Chevy mechanic but to a Mooney Center - but I never see any Mooney other than mine at this particular shop.

Thanks. My problem is that the trailing position does not work and I would appreciate to learn how it can be adjusted, so I can tell my mechanic. Don‘t see what that has to do with a transition training or the Safety Foundation course, which I also recommend to everyone. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Could someone please help me out understanding the cowl flaps on the 231. I understand that they should be continuously adjustable. However, on my airplane they only work full in or full out position. Anything in between causes them to deploy fully, the control moving out. This makes cooling adjustments at higher altitudes difficult. Any idea how to fix this (my mechanic does not know either)? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes, 39N. I flew to Princeton for a business meeting, my first time at the airport. They had a couple of Mooneys in their shop and also one for sale. The mechanic was really nice and knowledgable. Best, Thomas

You were right: a mechanic in Princeton removed the panel and replaced a couple of locknuts and the missing screws. Now CO is mostly back to zero in cruise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Made some progress in solving the CO issue. I taped the edge of the wing roots with duct tape. Also, I found a belly panel screw missing under the plane right downstream of the exhaust, which I also taped (see pictures below). With this, CO dropped to 0 ppm in cruise, with both cowl flaps in or out. I still have a little before landing with gear/flaps down. Next time I fly, I‘ll remove the tape on the wing roots and see if I still get zero. I this case, the fix would be to just put a bigger screw into the worn out thread. If it‘s the roots, they would need to be removed and re-taped below. That would be quite costly. I hope, it‘s just the screw. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi all, my mechanic filled the gap with some type of putty (only from the tail cone side) after I wrapped the cables with a piece of leather (that I cut out from the underside of our couch cushion when my wife was not looking). Unfortunately, the CO levels did not change. I am at a loss here. When I flew the plane back home from the shop I got 0 on takeoff and climb out, 12-20 on cruise in the front part of the cabin (more in the back). Perhaps the door seal is still leaking? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is the proper way to seal this safely (given that objects could fall into the flight control components in the tail cone)? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is a picture of the inside of the tail cone with the pass through for all the wires. Is that supposed to be taped up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Doc! I'll check the wire pass through and will get back with some pictures. I also ordered the Bacharach Monoxer (thanks for the suggestions whiskeytango!) to see if I can pinpoint the entry point and check levels for various flight modes. All I know so far is that levels are higher in landing configuration and also much higher when I hold the sensor back over the rear seat. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks A.! I will do that. I spent already tons of money with reputable shops, they still have no idea of how to resolve my problem. My monitor is quite new, well within the lifetime of the sensor. Today, I had 30+ in cruise and 50+ on approach. I will get a precision sensor and try to isolate the entry point. What would be the best course of action, if CO came in through the wheel wells? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the response, this forum is great! I have a Draeger Pac CO monitor. I have the problem since I bought the airplane last year. The exhaust is brand new, I just had it replaced but it did not make any difference. Using my monitor, it seems that the levels increase towards the back of the cabin. So I thought that CO enters under the back seats. Taping and sealing the floor there last week, however, made the problem worse. Maybe the gas vented out of these openings ... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi all, perhaps someone has an idea on how to solve my carbon monoxide problem. My CO monitor shows up to 50 ppm in the cockpit, particularly during approach. (At cruise it‘s down to 15ppm). It seems to come from exterior exhaust gases, not through the firewall. The air from the cabin heat is not contaminated and the exhaust system has been checked for leaks. I resealed cabin and baggage doors, changed the „rat boots“ in the gear cavities, and reapplied the tapes under the front and rear seats in the cabin. All without success, levels essentially remained unchanged. Grateful for any ideas, I am at a loss here. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk