fellis

Many thanks for the information. Looks like I have some adjustments to do to make this correct and resolve the problem at hand

Many thanks for the comments and input on correct placement of fuel flow meter and hose routing. I have a few questions/comments: 1. Is the line that is supposed to be between the servo and distributor block supposed to be a steel line (no breaks) or a hose? 2. Anyone have any pictures of location of the flow meter and where it is installed (between fuel pump and servo) as indicated above? Again thanks for the input/advice.

Thanks for the info M20Doc very much appreciated and yes this is the exact piece I am speaking of. Went back over to the hangar this evening and inspected it a little further and believe I found the reason that their is (incorrectly) a large opening in the lower cylinder baffle (see photos). A few years back I had a fuel flow meter installed on my plane that works with the EDM display on the plane. It appears that the A&P put the fuel hose that goes up to the fuel distributor (spider) in the incorrect opening (oval shaped opening). Looking at it it appears the correct location is thru the adjacent round hole and the oval shaped hole should be capped (as shown by M20 Doc above). It appears that a slightly shorter fuel hose will be required and a oval capped installed to remedy the situation.

While performing routine oil change on my J model today I noticed that there were two large openings (approximately 1 inch in diameter) on the lower cowling that was located on the lower cowling between cylinders 1 and 3 on the Lycoming IO-360. One opening provides for an opening to let the fuel line up however provides a farily large clearance between the OD of the steel line and the ID of the opening. A second hole (same size) is located adjacent to the first hole but has no plug or any other line that is routed thru this opening and therefore provides a significant sized opening for air to bypass. Just wondering if this is normal or maybe am missing a plug or grommet for the opening around the fuel line as well. Could explain some of the reason why temps are cliimbing when cowl flap are shut in crusie when running ROP ( no issue running LOP). Sorry I did not think to take photos but was hoping if others may provide some insight. Thanks

Could very well be. Interestingly though it was only on one side (exhaust)

My pleasure and want to share the knowledge on the repair.

Many thanks for the help. Went back to the hangar this evening and took a closer look after removing the top cowling. As it turns out the spring had little to no load on it when the cowl flaps were closed. I found a previous thread that had recommended to rotate the angled bracket slightly that allowed a little more load on the spring at the retracted position. I tried this and now the closed position has more load on the spring in this position. Put everything back together and cycled the cowl flaps. Appears to have much more positive load at closed but will still need to test to confirm. I will look at the positions of the flaps and adjust linkage as listed above my M201MKTurbo (many thanks for that). Also many thanks for the information above (M20Doc). Very much appreciate the help all. Hopefully will get a chance to take it up one day after work later this week and will report back. Have a great week and again thanks for the help.

Quick update on the repair. All bushings and worn linkage replaced and reasembled. Virtually zero play in the cowl flaps now. Much better. Flaps open and close on the ground with no sticking and with ease. Took for test flight this morning and same problem. Flaps can be closed but will not stay shut. Simply push back to open position right after reaching closed postion. Any ideas?

I have been chasing an issue on my 1980 M20J whereby the cowl flaps freely open and closed on ground but in the air will not fully close. Have investigated and flaps and various connections (rods and complete linkage going back to the cable) are very loose and sloppy which exacerbates the wear on the already worn components. Have ordered replacement parts and waiting for these to come in. While making the repairs I noticed that one of the threaded rods on right (exhaust side) has been modified as someone cut it, rewelded making it 1/2" longer. Thinking that this may have something to do with cowl flaps not closing but do not know for sure. Wanted to see if someone may know what the correct length of these rods may be. The opposite side is exactly 5 inches and length and appears to be original. Mooney parts catalog indicates that there are 3 possible rod combinations but does not provide any specifications on length. Any help on what length these should be and if they are supposed to be the same would be appreciated. Many thanks.

Been chasing the problem of #4 running hot for over a year now. Changed silicone on cowling, plugged up every small hole with RTV, checked and inspected baffling with top cowl on for any gaps or leaks, all with no results in reducing high temp. Did some more research and examined and took a close look at the sheet metal shroud on the back of the #4 cylinder that partially covers the back part of this cylinder and appears to act like a funnel for the incoming air being diverted to the oil cooler. Bent this up about an inch went for a short light and temperatures dropped to where variation is less than 20 degrees between ALL cylinders. Running in the 370's now on number 4 where temps would routinely be in the 380s and 390's. Saw no change in oil temps from previous.

Looking for Mooney experienced A and P in the Houston Texas area. Any recommendations?