bus driver

I have a 182 as well, and she use to the room. The Bo is like a retract 182 with the room, fuel burn, and useful load. Quite a bit more yaw, but she goes to sleep anyway.

5 days. Was a great plane at a great deal. The wife didn't like the room in the Mooney. I bought a Bonanza instead. Am I banned from Mooneyspace now? Lol.

Plane is sold. Thanks for the inquiries.

I have more pics but didn't have the space to upload them. Please PM me with an email and I can send you more pics. Sorry. 1964 Mooney M20E Super 21 For Sale One owner airplane since 1967. Owner very particular. Aircraft and logs impeccably maintained. No corrosion at all. 1) Engine a) 629 hours TTSMOH Alternator kit c) Chrome cylinders 2) Airframe a) 2888 Airframe TT – Minimal damage history - gear up in 1980. All repairs documented. 3) Propeller: a) 18 SMOH by Hartzell for overhaul & new “B” hub installed. 4) Radio Navigation Equipment: a) Apollo MX20 Multifunction display w/ new database Apollo GX 50 number 1 GPS w/new database c) Apollo SL30 number 1 Nav / Comm d) PS Engineering PMA7000M-S Audio panel e) Apollo SL60 number #2 GPS & Comm f) Phoenix Foster F4 Loran - removed g) Apollo 360 Moving Map slaved off of SL60 GPS h) Mid Continent Deviation Meter slaved off of SL60 GPS i) Terra TRD-250D Transponder j) Apollo Trans-Cal Encoder k) West Coast Voice Enunciator l) Insight Strike Finder m) S-Tec ST-050 system 60 Pitch Stabilization system (Altitude hold, Vertical speed, Glide Slope & Trim) n) Century I & Century IIB Autopilot system switch selectable slaved o) Century NSD 360 HSI p) Aircraft Components Inc. Voice alert system. Vocal gear warning & Stall Warning into audio system. q) JPI 701 engine monitor with Oil temperature, Outside air temp & 700900-1 Fuel flow options. r) Aero Trim Aileron Trim s) PAI 700 Compass Card with compensating balls t) Electronic heading pointer slaved to remote gyro 5) Equipment & Upgrades: a) Strobes Pitot Heat c) O&N fuel Bladder kit d) Precise Flight Manually Activated Speed Brakes e) Bob Fields manual inflatable door seal f) Precise Flight Standby Vacuum system g) 2 Bruce’s Custom Canopy covers. h) New Concord Battery i) New ELT battery j) New pilots “6 pack” Instrument panel being made now k) Challenger High Flow (K&N style) Air Filter l) One Piece Windshield m) Rosen Visors 6) Paint, Glass & Interior: a) Paint in Fair to good condition Interior in excellent condition c) Glass in very good condition 7) Major Speed Mods a) flap, aileron, rudder gap seals reverse brake c) dorsal fin d) lower cowling enclosure

Are you talking about a knob on the AP control panel in the cockpit or in the wing. Just so I know where/what I'm looking for.

Will do. Let you know what happens. BTW, my STec 60 alt. hold will not poer up. The lights will test, but that's it. Any ideas on this. Thanks so much.

N201MK, I just got the A/C and it has been blowing since I got it. Don't know about before. Owner passed away and plane sat for 5 years. I assume it is a servo though. Flight controls seem a bit more heavy than they should be. I have a Century 1, Century 2B and STec 60 Alt. Hold. Does the 1 and 2B use the same aileron servo?

OK, you got me. Got any pointers on the issue?

I just came from that site, but figured I'd ask for some extra pointers. I emailed them just now. I love the door seal. It really lowers the noise level and gets rid of the cold air drafts. I was up at 11500 last night and it was cold out. When the seal leaked down, you could feel the cold air seeping through the cracks. Pumped up, seals it up nicely. Worth it for the manuals bulb type, like I have.

My Century 2B Auto pilot circuit breaker keeps popping. (When I hold in the breaker for 10 minutes, it gets REALLY hot) .Just kidding. Anyone got Century Auto pilot experience. Wondering if a servo is binding.

I've got a Bob Fields Door seal on my M20E that leaks. Anyone got experience with finding leaks and/or repairing them?

So I'm new to Mooneys. My E prop tip sits 10" above the gnd in the vert position. Within specs 9.5 to 10.5 I'm picking up a lot of FOD dinging my leading edge. I operate from hard surface with good asphalt. Anyone use prop guard? How about 3M anti chafe tape on leading edges?

Damn you guys are good. Thanks B-26.

Anyone know where one can get the 201 style instrument hole covers, the ones that are usually black and flush mounted in the hole. Thanks. Bus. PS- See attached hole cover, but w/o the jacks.

Rob, are they saying airframes 469 and 230, or from that number forward?

Pre 56' Bonanza w/ E-225 engine. 11.5 gph, 150 TAS 1000 lb useful. Auto fuel STC. Solid, well built, lots of support and fans. Don't fly anyone famous in them, please!

Glad this issue came up because I have the same problem with my 0-360A4A on my C-172. I overhauled the engine and put a JPI-700 in the plane. I was alarmed about the temps. A much more experienced mechanic than I said it is possible that the carb is not atomizing the fuel properly and the fuel is not mixing well with the air. He mentioned possibly sending my carb out and having it checked. The carb works normally other than this possible problem. My baffling is in excellent shape. My #3 cylinder usually maxes at 450 or over, even with a lower rate of climb. I believe Lycomings have a max CHT of 450.

Oh, we're back on thread. Cool. Thanks Rob. I looked in a Mooney Maint. Manual I got off www.67m20e.com and can't find page 172 or figure 64. The manual has chapters 1 thru 8. Anyone have another source for E Manuals?

Nice! Dude, I just got the plane 4 days ago. I haven't turned a wrench on it yet and don't have the manuals, yet.

I'm good John, but thank you sir. My Wemacs are in great shape. The 64' E I just bought is in pristine condition. One owner since 67' and he was really anal (an engineer) and kept it meticulous. Got it near you, in Fitchburg.

OK, well there are varying answers here, so I'll have to do some more investigating. Can you tell me this: Is the air cut off with the arm up or down. Also, if that mixes with the hot air, where does the source come from for my cold air which has a cabin air push/pull control near the cabin heat and RAM air. I know on some other a/c, like Cessna's, you have multiple cold air sources. Is that the case with Mooney's. I know about the overhead fresh air with the Wemacs. Thanks. Bus Driver. (aka glorified switch flipper)

I could be wrong (as my wife always says), but the Master relay should be different than the starter relay. The starter relay is desigend for short term power inputs, where as the Master relay is designed for long term power. I'm an A&P and although my Mooney maint. experience is limited, all the other A/C I work on have this set up. If your relay is a Cuttler & Hammer, you can disassemble it, clean out the old grease, and regrease with dieelectric grease. This may fix the problem, or your relay may just be going. Strange electric things occur with a relay that is going, but not fully gone. Failure of electric flaps to fully extend or retract, especially under a load are one of those symptoms.

I just baught a 64' M20E and am new to the Mooney site. I'm an A&P, but have done limited work on the M20 series. On the copilots side, there's a manual arm that seems to be connected to the NACA intake on the right side. Where does that air go to and what does that valve do? Many thanks. Bus Driver

Some of those Wemacs have a rubber seal around the outside edge of the round piece inside. That seal will deteriorate over time, and allows air to pass through the valve. I have some off an old C-310 that this happened. If they have the seal, disassemble, clean and try an appropriately sized rubber seal. Worked for me.

Newbie here to the Mooney world. I created the attached cards for my 182 and used the plexiglass universal fuel stick from Sporty's. I fueled the a/c 5 gals at a time, switching back and fourth between tanks to keep it balanced for better fuel guage accuracy. Works great and very accurate. As a skydive pilot, I use a wooden stick with graduated markings (standard for the industry) which is also very accurate. Many thanks for all the great info on this site. Bus Driver. Left fuel Gauge and Stick In Tank/Uni Gauge 5 gal = 0 10 gal = 0 15 gal = 2 20 gal = 3 25 gal = 4.5 30 gal = 6 35 gal = 8 36.8 gal = 9.75 __________________________________________ Fuel Gauge w/5 gal gauge reads below E. w/10 gal gauge reads E w/15 gal gauge reads btwn E & ¼ w/20 gal gauge reads btwn ¼ & ½ w/25 gal gauge reads ½ w/30 gal gauge reads ¾ w/35 gal gauge reads ¾ w/36.8 gauge reads 3/4 Right fuel Gauge and Stick In Tank/Uni Gauge 5 gal = 0 10 gal = 0 15 gal = 2 20 gal = 3.5 25 gal = 4.75 30 gal = 6 35 gal = 8.25 36.8 gal = 9.75 __________________________________________ Fuel Gauge w/5 gal gauge reads below E. w/10 gal gauge reads just above E w/15 gal gauge reads btwn E & ¼ w/20 gal gauge reads just below ¼ w/25 gal gauge reads ½ w/30 gal gauge reads ¾ w/35 gal gauge reads ¾ w/36.8 gauge reads 3/4