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You guys are spot on with the solder comment. That is exactly what the texture feels like, but after scratching my head for a bit I figured it was the result from heat applied to the metal foil from the Phillips oil quarts. Definitely going to be adding this extra effort to the 50 hour regime as part of the oil change. Still need to do the safety wire this evening, but so far not a huge deal to R&R. And correct, the particles cleaned from the screen were not magnetic which is a relief. Also the oil filter was normal. This all leads me back to feeling like I got a huge runaround from the prop shop and them not wanting to do the right thing and warranty a 2 year overhaul ultimately blaming 'metal' on causing the prop to need a premature seal. This of course was after initially telling my maintenance shop that the prop was fine, leading to me having a crankshaft seal replaced probably for no reason. So, in summary a small prop oil seepage which started the whole fiasco turns into 3.5AMU unscheduled maintenance event... wish I would have provided more oversight on this process. Somewhat off topic - is the logic sound that metal in the oil would pass a clean filter and screens to then score the prop cylinder?

Hi all- Had prop overhauled proactively based on calendar time, not hours 2 years ago. Recently developed a minor oil seep and sent it to prop shop for inspection. They noted scoring on cylinder and completed a reseal. So because I presumed potential for metal in oil system that would have caused the prop cylinder to score, I pulled the oil suction screen tonight as part of oil change and noted some small items present. See attached image. Magnet doesn't pick it up and it feels almost like the same material used to seal new oil quarts. Not sure last time this screen was inspected, almost seems like it was overlooked at annual, as the nut barely showed wear. Any one else have anything similar happen? Should this be a cause for concern?

So, it seems after about 20 hours of keeping track, the fuel flow indicated is showing 1.0 GPH higher than actual. I had the sensor cleaned during annual hoping that would solve it, but no luck. Any thoughts on how to approach this?

Awesome- thank you! Learning everyday...

Finally located it, thanks for the help Scott - you always give good insight!

84, 201

Thanks for the feedback guys, it seems like the consensus is that it is the starter relay. I concur it is a wire mess right now, having avionics shop start straightening it out. I am also having them install a voltammeter. However they can't seem to find the ammeter shunt anywhere. I thought I heard the typical location to be under the panel in the upper right side. Any thoughts where it could be buried? Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Located this under the panel inside of my J. What is it? Is this a shunt for the ammeter?

Thanks for the suggestion. Will complete as suggested tomorrow. Won't be able to confirm function until mid-week when annual is done and plane is back in the air. Will also top off tanks and keep track of fuel burn manually to compare expected book numbers to the fuel totalizer reading.

Good point. Yes, that is indeed my symptoms. I haven't been diligent in documenting actual fuel burned vs what the Hoskins says. Will do it when I get plane back from annual. I have an engine monitor and cylinders are peaking similar to before - all around 365-370 F with 2400 RPM, cowl flaps closed. Any specific procedure to clear air bubbles from fuel flow transducer? Maybe when servo was installed air entered the system that hasn't been purged? This somewhat validates what I recently saw - total fuel burned according to the Hoskins didn't match wing gauges. I. E. Hoskins said 59 gallons burned since last reset and I was showing 10 gallons approximately in the tanks Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Why did you change the servo? When you are at 6000, you are releaning, slowly, to 100ROP? Is ram air used in either case? Fuel servo replaced due to reaching stop limit of adjustment for ground idle mixture. Yes, leaning at 2500 and then separately leaning again at 6000. The altitude references are also just to illustrate the point that fuel flow increases with altitude. I haven't been higher than 7500 yet to test if it continues past that point. Ram air closed in all scenarios. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I am leaning to ROP at both altitudes. Manifold pressure may be a bit less than 24" at 6k but rpm in which case would be firewall forward. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I replaced the fuel servo a few months back in my M20J, io360-a3b6d engine. Shortly thereafter, I noted an anamoly with fuel burn that is the inverse of what is expected - I burn more fuel as altitude increases. From memory, down at 2500 feet, 100 ROP yields approx 10.5 gph indicated at 24 squared. At 6000, same power settings require 11.5-11.7. I have a hoskins ft-101 that I am getting my data points from on fuel burn. I had a discussion about this with my mechanic and he explained that as a fuel servo goes bad, it dumps a bunch of extra fuel into the cylinder so when leaning prior to new fuel servo, I had a bad baseline to compare to. I challenge that, however, since I am not concerned with either a higher or lower gph reading, but rather what seems to be a mixture issue since I am requiring a richer mixture as I climb. Any thoughts?

http://www.lycoming.com/Portals/0/techpublications/serviceinstructions/SI%201508C%20(02-10-2011)/Dual%20Magneto%20Attachment.pdf Thanks for sharing! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Ive been the told this was due to improper tightening of the mag clamps and should be a non issue if properly torqued etc since there is a nylon lock nut being used. Even still, I constantly check the security of the clamps. Has anyone used replacement hardware with crush washers and/or safety wired the nuts?

I would like to 'clean up' the appearance under the cowl while also being proactive at replacing life limited items. I have an A&P/IA buddy that is going to do owner assist on these items. A few requests for input from fellow Mooniancs - 1. Does anyone have photos of what good looks like as it relates to engine wire management? I was looking at the Air Boss ignition harness for reference and would like to have a more modern and colored coordinated look inside the engine compartment. Any recommended sources for a wiring harness available in different colors? 2. My scat tubing for cabin heat keeps getting damaged by the cowl flap actuator bar. Any photos of the proper routing would be great; it is currently zip tied to the number 3 induction tube and then routes up to the cabin heat entrance. The cowl flap actuator digs into the scat hose every time it is opened/closed; not a good situation. 3. Should a fuel hose be strapped to the cowl actuator bar? I just noticed something of concern while looking at the scat hose, there is a dual zip tie setup securing the main fuel line coming from the firewall to the actuator bar. As such, the line moves every time the cowl flaps as actuated. I would have imagined the tubular engine mount braces would have been a lot more suitable place to secure a fuel line, since it won't move. EDIT: Picture attached.

Is there any validity requiring a brake reversal on a 201 J model for consistent grass ops? I keep hearing this from a few local guys and my understanding was that the J model could not accept a brake reversal due to the inner gear doors. I would like to stop at various grass strips but I have been hesitant due to rumors of losing brakes from grass and extra wear on the prop. I feel stupid even asking, but I am challenging what I keep hearing from 'hangar talk' with some old time Mooney guys.

Quick plug for ACI in Texas and big thanks to KSMooniac for the recommendation! They got it done for me on a quick turn, and the quality workmanship validates the decision to use them. I've flown about an hour (test flight and return to home base) and noticed the following improvements: 1. Much smoother idle/startup - almost don't realize the engine is on at idle 2. CHT temps much cooler than before 3. Fuel flow is lower Lesson learned to check these types of details during log inspection.

Great insight, thanks for sharing. Will be sure to reference that directive going forward.

Hi John - thanks for sharing, glad to hear you are okay! Definitely could have ended much worse, great job. How much time did you have on servo and who did the last OH?

Based on feedback, I am sending out the fuel servo to Texas. Bobby is going to try and turn it same day since he has one he can start on today, which would save my trip. Thanks KSMooniac for the nudge in the right direction (will go commercial if it comes down to it); after seeing your comments, I did some further research and saw some pretty scary stuff in the NTSB db related to Precision OH units generating no fuel flow directly attributed to engine failure. For other's future reference, make sure you speak to them about the updated mailing address. ACI 9808 Clark Airfield Drive Justin TX 76247

The servo being out of adjustment was corrected by re-centering the threaded screw to offset the adjustment nut to allow for more 'range'. After doing so, adjustment leads to a RPM that decreases but then spikes back up. This symptom is the reasoning behind the suggested overhaul. I don't know how a proper servo should act, so am a bit in the blind here. For reference, this unit was new prior to 2000 - seems like '98, so a long while in calendar time. Does this 17+ years align with your experience on longevity? I try to follow the 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' methodology, but 1.5k spread over 17 years for peace of mind is seemingly a small price to pay.

Thanks for the referral. I spoke with Bobby (seems very knowledgeable) and the only challenge is the turnaround time. I just got notified about this 3 days before a trip after plane has been there since beginning of last week... May need to go with the Precision unit since it is available for install tomorrow unless the consensus is there is a significant quality difference.

During a 100 hour inspection, it was noted that the fuel servo is at it's limit for adjustment. The shop tried to re-center the threaded bolt, but reported back that even after doing so and gaining some adjustability, the servo is not acting normal. After the RPM drop while leaning, there is actually an increase that follows which apparently is not normal. Only about 500 hours since overhaul, but it seems the prior owners did not OH the fuel servo with the engine overhaul. I find this to be short sighted, but I digress. I have a Precision Airmotive servo with Superior Air Parts diaphragm currently installed. What is the consensus on overhaul vs new and what shops are recommended for overhaul? Quality Aircraft Accessories and Precision were the two options offered up to me. What is a typical lifespan of a fuel servo? Should anything else be proactively looked at - i.e. replace fuel hoses, etc? Thanks!

Hi, After reading through the "Let's Talk Lubrication" and various additional threads related to lubrication, I am seeking additional insight. From the above as well as reviewing the maintenance manual, I have obtained a good understanding of what products on the market tie out to the MM lubrication schedule and generally speaking what needs to be lubricated. Several boxes from Spruce later, I was optimistic that I would have the best darn lubed bird. That was three months ago I received the boxes from Spruce. In short, I am seeking a detailed description/step by step DIY guide on how to lubricate the various critical areas on the plane. Assume I know nothing, and if not obvious am a bit anal retentive . I would like to do everything at once to establish a known baseline from which to manage going forward. I had an annual/100 hour about 85 hours ago in late April. Due to frequency of flying I'd like to be more proactive on lubrication and owner manage some of the 100 hour inspection items. Main Areas of interest : a. Control surfaces including flaps b. Gear zerk fittings c. Gear other d. Throttle, prop, mixture controls e. Landing gear actuator I.e. Here is a made up lubrication detail from utopia... I'd ideally have this quick hit list detail added to the front of my maintenance binder for easy reference. Aileron Control Surface Hinges - Frequency : every 50 hours or whenever you feel like, can't do this too often. Procedure: 1. Spray lps2 generously on the hinge while moving the aileron up and down to ensure penetration Gear Zerk Fittings Frequency : 50 hours or more often based on x, y, z Procedure: 1. Load grease gun with mil spec xx-xx 2. Apply grease via the 8 Zerk fittings until new grease comes out of fitting Etc. Appreciate the shared knowledge in advance. [emoji1]