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Stackthepilot

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  1. I am sticking with the $5,000 OH prop from Memphis. One thing is, cost is a factor. However I am not real concerned that the old hub will detract from the value of the airplane. It will have a 0 TSOH Prop and a 0 SBOH engine. Most of the Mooneys of this era still have the old style hub. Could I increase the value with a Top Prop, probably. But honestly not more than what the overall market value is for these Mooneys. IMHO the one thing that would increase the value is the Instrument Panel. It is slightly upgraded from stock but not as much as I would like.
  2. After recovering from the initial estimate of $37K we have taken another direction. The insurance company offered to sell her to me for $10,993. I accepted and within the last 5 minutes received this e-mail from Chartis: "Thanks John. There actually won’t be a signature required. The check will leave our NJ office tomorrow and should arrive within a few business days. If for some reason you don’t get it, let me know. Thanks again, and we will proceed forward with closing your claim at this time." I did change my mind on the prop. Russell at Memphis Propeller said he would build a Zero time prop for $5K. It is the old hub as he said the new No AD hubs are literally worth their weight in gold. I told him I love Memphis BBQ and would gladly fly down every 100 hours where for $199 he will inspect it on the aircraft. As for the belly, if it really won't increase my speed, it is pretty much worthless to me. I pull my own skins for the Annuals anyway. I have a great DeWalt that does the job in about 10 minutes. My A&P who is working on this with me said he can repair or rebuild the skins for next to nothing. We are going to go ahead and remove the engine in the morning. My A&P agreed we could do it in frame but he felt more comfortable removing and sending the crank and case off just to be safe. I have 3 children that fly with me often so I could not fauld the move of caution. I appreciate your advice.
  3. I have it insured for $40K. I owe the bank $18K but the estimate came in at $37K. Basically the Insurance Company (Chartis Aerospace) which I highly recommend is going to give me a check for $40K. In the end, I believe it will work out because I can buy the aircraft back for @ $10K, find rebuilt parts and used skins, pay off the bank and end up owning it free and clear. I just need help fiinding the parts because the more I look through Google and other search engines the more frustrated I become.
  4. Yes I was doing touch and go's. I was preparing for Oshkosh and doing precision landings. This was # 4 or 5 and (not bragging at all) I put the mains down exactly where I chose. Luckilly I was at idle when this happened and had already rolled 150ft or so. I am looking at the Hartzell 3 blade. Availability seems limited. I have found a 2 blade with 90 hours for $4200 though.
  5. What great advice. I knew I would find good info here!!
  6. It was a beautiful Sunday, 2 weeks before Oshkosh. I was practicing precision landings. On landing number 5 something felt different. On my post landing roll out I felt a wobble. It worsened and finally collapsed. Luckilly I was at idle and slowing down. However the prop struck the pavement 12 times (six per blade) and I suffered light skin damage. This 1964 Mooney is the one in the photo. It is beautiful and with only 460hrs on the engine which performs flawlessly, I do not want to total her as the insurance company suggests. However they offered me a buy back but I am having trouble locating parts. I need the following parts, for starters. Prop - HC-C2YK-1B. That is what I am having the most problem with. Belly Skins. From the Nose Gear Doors to just before the ADF pod. Obviously I need the engine to have a TDI. That's easy, not cheap but plenty of people willing to do it. If anyone can help locate or if you have these parts, I would be most appreciative. John Stackhouse, N1989Y
  7. Thank you very much Scott!
  8. I ordered a service manual but received one for a G model. Still waiting on correct one. I wanted to check the level in the resevoir to see if that gave an indication of the level of the leak. If the resevoir is empty or near empty I thought I would refill it, pump the brakes or flaps to create pressure hopefully finding the source of the leak. I was just working on the first step.
  9. The other day I was going to fly. As I slid into my 1964 M20C I felt my left foot slide on what turned out to be Hydraulic Fluid. I removed the cowl panel to expose the resevoir. I felt the bottom of the resevoir and there was a little fluid in the area where the Parking Brake mechanism comes out of the bottom. By the time I found time remove the panel and inspect the resevoir there appeared to be no additional leakage onto my floor board (I wiped it up after finding it). My question is: There are 2 square head bolts on the resevoir. A small one on top and a larger one on the side. How do I properly check the fluid level in the resevoir? What type of fluid would I use to replace this if it were low? Why don't I have my mechanic do this? The last time he had my Mooney it took 70 days for a couple of minor fixes. Thanks, John
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