bennergh

I don't have a clue what their sequence to solution was. The flow divider that they put in was used and looks a little grungy - I'm not complaining as long as it works! We had to lower the idle fuel flow this afternoon - A/P at my field (CQW) adjusted - it purred like a kitten at idle. Then I took it up and everything flew smooth. Just hoping that it starts and runs the same tomorrow when the engine's cold - ha! ~ Greg

Absolutely ... starting was most often a chore, my last 4 start cycles (since repair) were prompt and smooth. Before repair, a slight surging was also an issue while fire-walled on the runway.

I was finally was able to get to the source of my RPM (Power) problems! Took my airplane to Triad Aviation in Burlington, NC and they ended up replacing the Magneto Impulse Coupler and the Fuel Divider. It seems the fuel divider was flooding one of the cylinders. I found (thanks Shadrach) that my RPM gauge is about 120 RPMs low as indicated using the handy 'Micro Digital Tach' which appears to be pretty consistent and accurate!

... an additional note: I always move the prop control (during run-up) a bit slowly. I'm never very heavy handed with the prop control. ~ Greg

When I do my static run-up and exercise the prop there is a delay of no less than 2 seconds - depending on how fast I move the prop control of course. The prop exercise seems by sound to go pretty deep in pitch. I'm not sure what the RPM loss is at this point, but it seems fairly significant - maybe 300 RPMs? ... puzzling. Thank you, ~ Greg

Thanks Clarence! No. I don't intend to fly this thing until everything is resolved. I've taken a trip or 10 down the runway to test the performance, only to taxi back, scratching my head. It seems that it's a 50/50 chance that either the prop isn't feathering properly or the engine simply isn't producing HP. ~ Greg

I've owned this plane for a little over a year and this problem has been on-going. The previous owner had a gear up landing and the prop was replaced. The prop apears to be in excellent condition and both the prop and prop governor were sent off, put on the bench and tested to be fine. Whether or not the prop and governor are properly aligned is my (new) next asignment! Thanks, ~ Greg

Thank you for all the great advice. I've ordered a prop RPM gauge (thanks for the tag!) and will explore the Prop and Prop governor for its stop position. Pardon my naiveté, but can you shoot the prop RPM gauge through the windshield? Seem almost too comvenient to be true - Ha! Thanks again!

I have a 1977 M20J, S/N 0031 and have been experiencing a on-going problem with engine RPM/power problems. The issue seems to reveal itself in several ways. First, I've never seen 2700 RPM or above and second, I've noticed a slight surging on climb-out when the engine is cooler. The engine will mostly only perform 2200 - 2400 RPM static. I've sent off the Prop & Govenor and the Throttle Body; both were returned 'No Problem Found". I've repaired the, Muffler because of a metal obstruction in the center of it. I've replace the valve lifters and checked the tolorances. Checked the timing and Cam Shaft alignment - still to no avail. I seem to have run out of options, except for maybe suspecting some quasi-alignment that may exist with the Prop/Airframe? My A/P spoke with a tech rep at Lycoming who told him not to rebuild the engine. That he knew someone who had the same problem and rebuilt his engine, only to realize that the same problem existed afterward! At this point, both my A/P mechanic and I are extremely puzzled about where to proceed.

I bought one of these units (below) from Sportys and have used it extensively, especially getting to know my avionics: http://sportys.com/PilotShop/product/9663 I have a 1977 model M20J with a 12 Volt buss, but Sportys has a 24 volt version as well. It works nicely and I have no complaints. I've killed my battery before by leaving my master switch on and couldn't revive it. In speaking with other pilots and my local AP, there's typically no reviving a gel cell once they have gone down to the lower thresholds of power. You might be able to try a trickle charge, but even that can become a hopeless scenario from what I understand. Early on I bought one of the yellow paddle connectors is hopes of building my own PS but decided to just purchase the above. I feel as though given the proper ampacity (25 Amps), an off the shelf automotive charger will do the trick just fine. Just remember to tie the smallest connector in the paddle to B+ and you should be good to go! ~ Greg

Cool! Excellent information ... thank you everyone! ~ Greg

Thanks Guys! I found this on http://www.skygeek.com for $754 (pretty pricey!) but it's 14/28 volts. I'm feeling partial to the automotive charger that you specified (less $$), that would require a 10 amp power factor. Do you guys feel like the automotive charger will power my avionics as well as keep the battery charged simultaneously? Thanks again! ~ Greg

I have a 1977 M20J (12 volt electrical system) that has an Auxiliary power adapter installed over the battery, which has a connector on the left rear fuselage. I'm looking for an economical way to power up my panel to play with my Aspen/Garmin 430W while parked. I found this unit on the 'Sportys' site: http://sportys.com/PilotShop/product/11988 (see image attachment) It seems like I should be able to use an automotive 12 volt power adapter with this unit for an economical way of powering my panel without the engine running. It may even be useful as a battery charger in a pinch as well? Does anyone have any experience in this arena?

Actually I just found on @ Northstar Aero: 888-566-3781. A bit pricey though ... $125.00!!! Thank you Ron! ~ Greg

Thanks! ... Greg