rbmaze

Oh, yeah I am talking about something a bit different. The original equipment in my E had a passive acrylic panel to provide space for the bulbs beneath to illuminate the instruments. Yeah, this exactly.

I am unable to find something like this from online vendors. I only see lighted versions that wire in.

As an aside I was thinking about these for a while, but couldn't figure out what they were called. Any search brought me to Nulites. Finally, I was browsing through my POH and found the answer was there all along.

My instrument lighting is somewhat poor. The plastic on my panel blocks the lights from illuminating the instruments. My POH describes the following: "All instrument faces are edge-lighted by bluish white electric light bulbs with acrylic light-distribution panels mounted between the base panel and the instrument panel cover." These panels are missing - probably removed over the years. I would like to replace them but cannot find a source. Does anyone know someone that makes these? I am thinking of just having custom versions cut.

All good . I entered maintenance mode and saw that I can change the squelch, but unfortunately cannot save it. I read that there are three specific frequencies, and only these three, that can be saved without having maintenance/dealer access. I could see if my A&P can save it for me, but the problem is I don't know what value I want without flying around my pattern, so I may just use the SL30 since it's pilot updatable.

Right but this will allow one to listen to all signals, holding open the squelch. Maybe my squelch control is stuck in full open and not automatic. This is news to me but would be great if true. Will give it a try. The Pilot's Guide does not describe this behavior on the 530W and only says the Squelch control disables automatic squelch. The COM radio features an automatic squelch to reject many localized noise sources. You may override the squelch function by pressing the COM power/ volume knob. This facilitates listening to a distant sta- tion or setting the desired volume level. To override the automatic squelch, press the COM power/volume knob momentarily. Press COM power/volume knob again to return to automatic squelch operation.

Thanks for the tips! I did think it was squelch until I realized both radios do it, but I confirmed they have different levels of interference. Took a look at the radios and the SL30 seems easy to change. 530W I pushed some buttons and turned knobs and can see the RF squelch setting, but cannot seem to save it. I would guess it's locked down, but any tips appreciated .

When I am flying around airports in urban areas the squelch on my comm radios opens and I get a lot of static. I have no problem hearing real transmissions and as soon as someone transmits I can hear loud and clear but then it goes back to static. It is present when flying the pattern at some airports (KMYF, KSEE). At KMYF I think it starts when I'm about 50ft AGL. Initially I was thinking the squelch on my radio needs to be adjusted, but it actually happens on both my GNS 530W and SL-30, though it's worse on the 530W so I typically use SL-30 as my primary. I would like to get this fixed, but I am afraid of opening an expensive project. Maybe the coax or antenna needs to be replaced, but since I only get this in the air I am unsure how to reproduce and debug on the ground. Anyone have experience with something like this?

I have an update to share. It turns out the gear really is cracked. I had a magnetic-particle inspection performed last week and it revealed several cracks in the area. Neither Don Maxwell nor LASAR are able to repair this, so I am moving forward with the salvage gear. I will have an MPI performed on this one before installation to verify it is a good part.

I'm going to see if the paint can be stripped. How is this typically done? Will the gear need to be removed first? It looks to me like an abrasive was used and it took off some paint but not all of it, or left a primer. I've never heard of MPI inspection.

There was indeed a rusty crack in the paint. The shop said they didn't think the dye-penetrant inspection would actually reveal a crack, but suggested looking closer just to be safe.

@MikeOH Good point, that would be easy! Unfortunately my Mooney is at a smaller airport in SD County right now. I've asked Savvy for advice on this matter as they are managing my annual.

Thanks for the quick responses! How would one go about a second and third opinion? I'm out of annual as of 7/1.

I am working through my first annual. While the light is at the end of the tunnel, I was informed today my left main gear has a crack. The shop noted it earlier in the annual and didn't think it was really a crack, but wanted to dye pen it to be sure. They did it twice and confirmed it is indeed cracked. My question is, how common is this? Is it likely this was cracked for a while? I took it to a new IA from where it was previously maintained. This didn't arise in my prebuy last year. I am disappointed but this should only be about $2.5k with a salvage part and labor.

I'll reach out to Paul and see if he's available. I've seen him on Saavy and listed on some FAA Safety seminars but didn't know he instructs. Thanks!

I am finished with my flying requirements for IR (40 hours instrument training, long instrument XC, etc). I completed this last year in Cessnas. Now I need to hit the books and become instrument proficient in the Mooney and schedule a checkride. Any recommendations for CFIIs with Mooney experience? I had a great CFII but I moved recently.

I love my G5s. When I started instrument training a couple years ago I routinely flew in aircraft both with and without them. I quickly decided I would not purchase a plane with a steam AI or DG if I was ever going to fly IFR, even in VMC. For the AI, my favorite feature may be the digital barometric-pressure setting. I always adjust my digital first followed by analog. When I get updates on pressure it is so easy to know if I'm at the correct setting. I also use the altitude bug all the time which is a great feature. Having v-speeds visualized is another useful thing to have. This month I am installing a GAD13 and temp probe to display OAT and TAS on my AI, in addition to winds aloft on my HSI. I haven't used a GI 275 and it could be a case of not knowing what I am missing, but I am very satisfied with the G5. By the way I also have a vacuum pump to run my PC system.

Thank you! I would not have guessed this.

Aha! Thank you for letting me know. I wonder if that was always there or was added at some point. I'll need to take a closer look.

I took a look at the service manual that's available in Downloads - #106. I can't make much sense of it as there are only letters. Are those different instruments/placards?

That's interesting. I haven't noticed any illumination of my fuel selector. I'll have to check if there is a bulb or socket.

I have searched around but no luck on finding an answer to my question on this. I have an E model with the throttle quadrant. Do the older Mooneys have any bulb to light up the flap and trim indicators? I noticed a circular hole at the bottom of my quadrant and maybe a bulb could be fitted to this. I also wonder about rear illumination. Or is the design reliant on the map light from above? Thanks for any input!

I am planning to install an EDM 900 in the next few months. My M20E is going into a local shop in June for my first annual and I was quoted 50 hours for installing the EDM 900 at this time. I prefer to do the install separately since I might be in for some surprises next month as far as needed repairs. Also going to install an AV-20-S and maybe some improved instrument lighting (nulite?). I'm interested in flying to Las Vegas, Arizona, etc if it will mean cheaper labor than California, or a better install, or both. I have read all the MS discussions about engine monitors. I am very interested in a self install with an overseeing A&P, but I realize I probably don't have time outside of weekends and don't have a relationship with a local A&P. Any recommendations would be great!

Looking forward to your pirep once you get it in. Does seem like a good option.

I'm curious to know why you'd choose this option, since it's the most expensive. Do you think it's worth having as another backup while having dual G5s? Or just a good clock?