m100psi

Thanks for the tip. I’m not planning to remove the ceiling panels, but I’ll call them to see if it’s a more reasonable solution than the kit.

Thanks all for the feedback. A MSC found the insulation kit associated with the SB…for $750.

Hi all, I'm currently getting new insulation installed in my '78 J. The shop doing it is concerned if they use the aluminum-backed insulation, they'll need to degauss afterward which in the past they've found to be time consuming. Just wondered what experience others have with this? Is degaussing typically part of the process when you carry out SB208? Or do others use another type of insulation without aluminum? Thanks, Matt

Looks like it does have the arrow pointing to the bottom of the tab. Good to hear it matches well with measurement. Thanks all for the feedback.

Probably an easy one: For Mooneys with 32 gallon tanks and 25G tabs, is the 25G usable mark at the bottom of the tab, or the drill hole that’s about 3/4” above it? Not trying to make my destination on the difference, but would be good to know. Thanks, Matt

Thanks, all. Seems to be adjusted to where I need it now...hopefully it will never need adjusting again.

Hi Skip, thanks for the feedback, though not sure I followed. Were you suggesting loosening those screws to get to the governor adjustment screw? We (and by we I mean the mechanic I was working with) managed to loosen the adjustment screw jam nut by holding a broken off piece of open end wrench with small vice grips. Then turned the adjustment screw by working the jam nut all the way down to the screw head until it locked against the screw head before working the nut back up the adjustment screw to lock it in place again. I read in another thread the A3B6D is easier, but seems like Lycoming really doesn't want anyone changing the governor setting on the A3B6.

Ack...we eventually got it with a normal open end broken off very short.

Does anyone have any tips on this? My mechanic and I have been trying to get to the jam nut on the screw for a couple hours now. Why on earth is the adjustment screw inserted from the bottom?

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I couldn't find the other thread on the fuel hose, but if it's the hose connecting the fuel servo to the divider, I'll just get that one replaced. If there's a screen just after the boost pump, I don't think it was checked. I'll look for it and ask my mechanic if the AD applies to my s/n if it isn't there. My J is a '78. I was under the impression that the screen on the servo was so fine, if crud was coming all the way back from the tank, it would either be filtered out there or too small to clog an injector. Is that wrong? Thanks, Matt

This thread is even older now, but just to follow up on my issue, the cowling vibration and cowl flap play ended up being due to a worn upper cowl flap rod end. The hole around the bushing had expanded. Repaired and there's no longer any vibration during either climb with cowl flaps open/trailed, or high-speed descent with cowl flaps closed.

Hi all, I know injectors get blocked occasionally, but I've had 4-5 blocked or partially blocked injectors since picking up my M20J in November last year. Before picking it up, I had a full chemical strip and reseal done on both tanks. Since then, besides several injector cleanings, I've had the gascolator and fuel servo screens cleaned. Both had gunk in them before cleaning. Since I've had more blocks since then I'm going to get those screens checked/cleaned again, but I wondered where downstream of these stuff might be getting dislodged from? Thanks, Matt

Thanks everyone for the feedback. Is the right side vent option only available from a specific manufacturer?

Hi all, My '78 J is up for its first annual with me, and I thought this may be a good time to replace the sort of foggy, green side windows. The windshield is fairly new and grey. I've seen a few comments in various posts about 3/16" vs. 1/4", grey vs. darkened, right side window, etc. Does anyone who has already gone through this have a list of the different options available for windows? Thanks, Matt

Good idea using the just in case tarp. I’ve changed the oil in our vehicles many, many times and still manage to end up with some splatter.

The ziplock method seems like a good, simple solution. A couple other oil questions while on topic... For those who use Camguard, do you add a little extra any time you add a quart of oil? Currently, my engine burns about 1Q in 6-7 hours, seemingly in an effort to keep the #4 plugs well lubricated. Just wondered if the normal practice was also replacing the additive, or not worrying about the difference. I’d also like to get another analysis prior to my next change. Is there any reason not to pump a little oil out the filler neck rather than dropping the lower cowling? I never change oil that way even on cars, but seems like an easy way to get some out for analysis when not changing. Thanks, Matt

Hi all, I worked with my mechanic to do the first oil change on my 78 J. When we changed the filter, we just removed it and let oil drain all over the engine bay and nose wheel, then he cleaned it (and the ground) with some solvent afterward. I keep my aircraft on the ramp and even if I could do it this way, I don't think the aircraft manager or my neighbors would be too pleased with it. There's a video showing a half-pipe PVC method for catching filter oil in an M20C. Does that work with the J, or is there another method others use to reliably catch filter oil? Thanks, Matt

Oh, awesome, not sure how I missed that. Thanks!

Hi all, Unless I missed something, it didn't look like there was a full solution in the previous threads on this to get a labeled switch cover. I'm not too familiar with 3d printing options (trying to learn now), but I'm working on a model for use with dual extruder printers so the switch cover and label can all be printed together. No idea yet if I'll get anywhere with it or if it will be cost effective, just trying things out. I wondered if anyone does already have a full solution for printing switch covers with labels so I'm not working to reinvent. Incidentally, I tried the Shapeways rev 0.6 (tighter fit) and couldn't get it on my switch ('78 J) with the switch in the panel. I also discussed labels with aircraftengravers.net. Doesn't sound like they're confident with these which seemed weird since it looks like that's pretty much what they do, and they also weren't too interested in talking to me for my small order which is understandable. They did say if you want a white switch with black text, they've had the best luck painting the face of a black switch white so just the recessed text shows through black. Thanks, Matt

I was asking SuperDaggi assuming he'd get an e-mail for new replies here, but appreciate feedback from everyone. I haven't tried partial cowl flaps yet...I'll try it next I'm up. Thanks, Matt

I know this is an old thread, but I'm having exactly the same problem with my M20J. With cowl flaps open, a little after takeoff I get serious vibration in the cowling. Closing the cowl flaps almost (but not quite) eliminates the vibration, and it gets a worse again at descent airspeeds even with cowl flaps closed. Was the missing nut in your case part of the exhaust ring bracket or something else? This bracket was broken on mine, but it's fixed now and fixing the bracket didn't resolve the vibration. Thanks, Matt

That would be awesome. I'll follow up by message. Thanks!

Thanks, all. I wrote to Don Kaye and it sounds like we can set up a lesson, but it will be a few weeks. I'll see if someone at KSQL would mind taking me up in the meantime. It's been a while since I've frustrated ATC in the bay by not knowing all their visual reporting points, so a trip to San Carlos is definitely in order. I wondered why Advantage kept coming up in web searches for renting Mooneys even though there were none in their fleet. Guess that explains it. Matt

All the good planes are in San Diego...that's where I had to go to find a Tiger to fly as well. Thanks very much. I'll follow up with everyone you suggested. Matt

Hi all, I've been shopping for my first aircraft for a while, and recently decided I might want to add the M20J to the options. It seems to fit my plan, and the less expensive ones are in my budget, but I've never had a chance to fly (or sit) in one. I'm near Sacramento and the closer, the better, but does anyone know anywhere within about 500 miles where I can get a lesson? I saw the thread posted on rental Mooneys in 2016, but the list in that thread is a dead link now. This cart is a little ahead of the horse until I can fly one, but I'd also be interested in knowing about any coming up for sale. My only hard requirements are a solid AP, 430W or better, and good history of diligent maintenance. I'm new to shopping for Mooneys so not yet familiar with ways to shop for them outside of the standard aircraft sites. Any type-expert Mooney mechanics around Sacramento? Thanks, Matt