ManGar

Thank you everyone for your inputs. I think I'm going to go ahead and have it replaced. I can't find any entry in the logs indicating that it was ever replaced and the airframe has 3,600 hours so it's time anyway. Thanks again!

Hi everyone, I'm having a similar problem but there is no more adjustment that can be made to the switch. I started having the gear horn come on at 21 inches of manifold pressure recently. Before that it wouldn't sound until about 13 inches. I don't know what to do so any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks! 20220130_182847_986758146521288.mp4

Thanks for the info. I've been wanting to go for some time now but like I said, I'm an new Mooney owner and didn't know if it was going to be an issue with the lower prop clearance and all. MG

Hey everyone, I'm an new Mooney M20C owner and was wondering if there was anything specific to be concerned about landing at Peach State (GA2)? I've never landed a Mooney on a soft field. Thanks! MG

Thanks for all the advise. This has all been a learning experience. None of which has made me regret buying my first airplane. I love the Mooney and know its a great machine.

Thank you!!! I suspected the arm distance in one of the gears was at least one of the culprits along with the 50 pound difference in the main gears. I'll do as you suggested just to verify and then get it weighed to make it all legal. Thanks again for all of the advise from everyone!

No, the battery is still in the front. I just got the airplane last year and the only modification I made was the alternator STC which lightened the front by 6 pounds. At this rate, I won't be able to install the G5 and get rid of the vacuum pump.

I was wondering why the difference if both tanks had the same amount of fuel. I may not have any choice but to get her weighed. I just need to find someone who has scales to do it.

Thanks for doing the calculations. That seems really aft. Guess I'm gonna have to get her re weighed. Have any idea about how much it costs? Also, do you know if some sort of balance weights are a possibility?

Thanks for the info. I was wondering if the arm for the gears that they used seemed accurate. I just can't believe that I have such an aft CG that I can't ever have anyone in the back or even carry luggage.

By the way.... 1736.7 is the empty weight not 2048.7

The W&B sheet says it was weighed with full fuel (52 Gallons) 312 lbs. and 8 qts at -7.4 inches.

I'll have to look but when they weighed it, they listed left main at 731.3 lbs with a arm of 65.75 and the right main at 784.3 lbs with and arm of 65.75 and nose at 533.1 lbs with an arm of 3.06.

Hey everyone, Hoping to be steered in the right direction. I have a 1963 M20C. It was last weighed in 2000 before I owned it. At the time the calculations were made, it came out with an empty weight of 1736.7, Moment of 86181.2, CG of 49.62(seems really aft to me) and a useful load of 838.3 lbs. Since then, it has had several avionics replaced and most recently I had the Alternator STC done which left me with a CG of 50.12 which is outside aft of the envelope. With no baggage or rear passengers and full fuel, and me as a 210 lb pilot, I am at the inside edge of the envelope. This can't be right can it? I'm thinking that maybe the arm used for the landing gear when it was weighed may have been wrong. Does anybody know what the arm distance for the main and nose gear is? They useded 65.75 for the main and 3.06 for the nose. I've called around to see who could weigh it but no one I've talked to has the scales as they are expensive. They offered to review the calculations but I'm of the mindset that if it wasn't done right the first time then it's still not going to be right. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Robert! I had already tried the compensator balls. I think I'm going to try the compass shield sheets and compensating balls as soon as I get a chance to deviate from the infamous honey do list.

Thanks again!!! It's all very useful information. I did see the warning when I was checking out the product!!!

Thanks! I already used a magnet to confirm that the center post is steel. I'm hoping that the sheets will take care of the interference coming from the panel while the balls will take care of the center post. Did you have to cut the two sheets and tape them together to cover the entire dash?

I've been rereading the post. Am I understanding this correct? The magnetic interference is coming from the instrument panel and not the center post where the compass mounts?

Yes sir. I'm aware of that. Thank you for asking!

Thanks Brian! I will give it a try, I really would like the vertical card compass to work. - Manny

Do you have any idea how much degaussing typically runs and about how long it lasts?

Thanks for the advise. I forgot to mention that I did have the balancing balls but they didn't help enough. I think I'm gonna try the magnetic compass shield.

Hello everyone, I'm a first time airplane owner and I can't seem to find any posts addressing this problem so I'm sorry if I'm repeating a previously addressed issue. My A&P told me that my compass can't be adjusted because of a worn worm screw so I bought a vertical card compass from Aircraft Spruce. He installed it and then told me that because of the steel roll cage of my 1963 M20C, he can't adjust it. He said that the only way would be to demagnetize the frame but that it would eventually remagnetize and cause the same problem. Does anyone know if there is a specific compass that can be used on these steel cage Mooneys or if there is anything else that can be done? BTW... Aircraft Spruce will not take the vertical card compass back because it was "installed" so if anyone is looking for a "new" one, I'm willing to let it go for $350 which is less than what I paid for it. It's a 14V PAI 700 Compass N/H and I'll include the Precision PACMO Mooney center post mounting bracket. Thanks for any help you can offer.