Mixture cable fell off

[Guest]

Per the IPC and from what I’ve seen the cable installation is correct.  The rod end used to be a swivel joint but many have been replaced with a rod end bearing.  I looked through the kit list on Mooney.com but can’t find the number.  In any case the stack of washers is incorrect, it should be a steel bushing, bolt, castle nut and cotter pin.

Clarence

[Flymac]

Thanks for the feedback so far...I agree for what I noted and re-stated above, the cable is supposed to mount on the outside, even though that really crates all of the inward angle...the thought on possibly my servo arm not being correct was a good idea in that maybe theres one that extends further outward, but it really looks to match Byrons in size (I'll be back there in an hour and measure how far it extends out.)

I'm not sure I follow what the idea is on moving the arm 1 notch clockwise in terms of relieving any of the binding if you could elaborate? (to note I dont recall what position I had the mixture knob in this photo if that was driving the comments)  My mechanic and I considered that as full rich we have about 3/16" gap on the knob before hitting the stop nut in the cabin, but we thought 1 notch might be greater than that and not allow us to then hit the full rich limit of the servo...but can certainly try.

Certainly agree on replacing washers with a bushing/tube...other than that maybe just a different rod end is needed... I thought I saw Byron note the one he purchased was a "distressed angle" rod end...that could make perfect sense to cover more of the angle, I wasnt aware they made such a thing, but will confirm my thread and maybe try.

[N201MKTurbo]

Your picture shows the mixture arm about midway. You can see the position of the stop arm in relation to the stop. 

My thought was that the arm was almost straight back with it at cutoff. This would give a poor mechanical advantage because there is no angle between the cable and arm.

It would be better if you took a picture of the cable in the jammed situation so we could see what is going on. 

[Bob_Belville]

I'm reminded that there seem to be a lot of 50 year old control cables still flying... McFarlane recommends using the engine TBO as the useful life of a cable. 

[Guest]

4 hours ago, Flymac said:

Thanks for the feedback so far...I agree for what I noted and re-stated above, the cable is supposed to mount on the outside, even though that really crates all of the inward angle...the thought on possibly my servo arm not being correct was a good idea in that maybe theres one that extends further outward, but it really looks to match Byrons in size (I'll be back there in an hour and measure how far it extends out.)

I'm not sure I follow what the idea is on moving the arm 1 notch clockwise in terms of relieving any of the binding if you could elaborate? (to note I dont recall what position I had the mixture knob in this photo if that was driving the comments)  My mechanic and I considered that as full rich we have about 3/16" gap on the knob before hitting the stop nut in the cabin, but we thought 1 notch might be greater than that and not allow us to then hit the full rich limit of the servo...but can certainly try.

Certainly agree on replacing washers with a bushing/tube...other than that maybe just a different rod end is needed... I thought I saw Byron note the one he purchased was a "distressed angle" rod end...that could make perfect sense to cover more of the angle, I wasnt aware they made such a thing, but will confirm my thread and maybe try.

I don’t think moving to the inside is an option, as the cable would then bind on the oil sump.  Most are at quite an angle from what I’ve seen.

Clarence

[ArtVandelay]

I'm reminded that there seem to be a lot of 50 year old control cables still flying... McFarlane recommends using the engine TBO as the useful life of a cable. 

After removing my engine l inspected the 40 year old cables, they looked ok, but Im ordering new ones anyway. OP, I took pictures before removing the engine, but didn’t get any good pictures of the cable connections.

[Flymac]

I ended up ordering the rod end Byron had noted (in a separate thread) and we'll see how that ends up...an Aurora CW-3, noted with a 20* misalignment angle per Aurora's product manual, should help.  To put link with this thread:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JQLNC6/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1