Interior Fuel Drain Pull Part Number?

[ProtoFly]

My gascolator is missing the threaded part that has the pull-ring on it.  My search of the IPC doesn't seem to be clear on a part number for that.  Anyone know what the part number might be?  The threaded rod is sticking up, and the threads look good - just missing the doohickey....

[N201MKTurbo]

How about a pic?

 

[ProtoFly]

15 hours ago, N201MKTurbo said:

How about a pic?

 

Here's what I'm looking for, from the IPC (again, no number or part number on it)

 

[N201MKTurbo]

It must be in your plane somewhere.

[47U]

26 minutes ago, ProtoFly said:

Here's what I'm looking for, from the IPC (again, no number or part number on it)

Is the entire shaft missing?  Your first post says, “the threaded part that has the pull-ring on it.”  

That ‘threaded part’ has the teflon seal on the bottom which seals the drain so fuel doesn’t leak.  The teflon seal has been known to start leaking and is practically unobtanium.  A friend who had a D-converted-C was able to make the teflon seal, but he has exceptional skills.  His pics below:

Have you had the airplane long?  A common solution to the teflon seal leaking is to convert the gascolator drain to an external drain fitting.  This modification removed the ‘threaded part’.  Maybe your aircraft has been converted?  I think the pic below is from a MooneySpace member… @hammdo maybe?  Perhaps they’ll chime in since they have direct knowledge, which I do not have.  My gascolator is in the nose wheel well.

 

 

[N201MKTurbo]

Mine was leaking. I just dropped a little o-ring in there and it hasn’t leaked since.

[ProtoFly]

The rod with the male threads is visible on the floor.  Missing the little female threaded part with the pull ring.  Was missing when I got the plane.

[N201MKTurbo]

Just get a threaded spacer from McMaster Carr that screws on the threads, cut it to length and cross drill a hole for the ring. Use a keychain ring for the pull.

https://www.mcmaster.com/90202A202/

Not sure if this is the correct thread size.

[hammdo]

Maxwells put a Curtis drain on mine since my drain had a crack (see the pic above for the Curtis drain). They overhauled the selector at the time. Was a much cheaper fix too!

-Don

[DCarlton]

26 minutes ago, hammdo said:

Maxwells put a Curtis drain on mine since my drain had a crack (see the pic above for the Curtis drain). They overhauled the selector at the time. Was a much cheaper fix too!

-Don

I'm tempted to pursue this mod.  I would be much more comfortable in flight with this design.  

[hammdo]

I like the external drain, I can verify no water, do all the drains quickly. Yeah, a bump in the airflow but I like the change…

-Don

[ProtoFly]

I'll look into putting a Curtis valve there - or one like the wing sumps have.  Seems easy to make the pull-ring as well, with a bit of threaded spacer....

[47U]

8 minutes ago, ProtoFly said:

I'll look into putting a Curtis valve

My perceived benefit of the Curtis valve modification is because you are physically at the valve and will see if there’s contaminants in the fuel sample.  And you can verify that the valve isn’t stuck open or otherwise leaking fuel.  

Albeit, a small risk, but draining fuel to expunge water and contaminants from inside the cabin seems foreign to me. 

[Justin Schmidt]

9 minutes ago, 47U said:

My perceived benefit of the Curtis valve modification is because you are physically at the valve and will see if there’s contaminants in the fuel sample.  And you can verify that the valve isn’t stuck open or otherwise leaking fuel.  

Albeit, a small risk, but draining fuel to expunge water and contaminants from inside the cabin seems foreign to me. 

Fairly easy to ensure. Sump wing tanks first. Then pull the gascolator for 10 to 15 sec each side. If really want fashion a catch tub 

[Yetti]

In sailing we call the rings ringy dingys.    So there are many sizes of them in stainless at the boat store.    For me it is just a trip to the tackle box with boat supplies.    a set of taps and the proper size bolt with some filing and grinding will get you the other piece. 

 

[FlyingDude]

4 hours ago, 47U said:

This modification removed the ‘threaded part’

With this modification, are you pushing on the bottom of the gascolator asymmetrically every time you press on it for sampling? Can that be an issue?

[DCarlton]

4 hours ago, FlyingDude said:

With this modification, are you pushing on the bottom of the gascolator asymmetrically every time you press on it for sampling? Can that be an issue?

Hum... 

[47U]

5 hours ago, FlyingDude said:

With this modification, are you pushing on the bottom of the gascolator asymmetrically every time you press on it for sampling? Can that be an issue?

That’s a valid observation.  Some Curtis drain valves have a pretty stiff spring.  I don’t know how it compares to the stiffness in the spring of the pull ring, but pull ring has a tube with adjustable nut to prevent the asymmetrical side load when the ring is pulled.

The gascolator bowl has a fairly large circumference to spread out the side load from the drain valve spring.  I’ve only work on one… on my friend’s ‘68 G when his electric fuel pump started making a horrible racket.  Putting it back together, I remember the bowl was a fairly close-tolerance fit and seemed solid after assembly, even with caution to not over torque the bolt.  

Perhaps there’s enough planes modified with the Curtis drain valve that if there was going to be an issue, it would have presented itself by now.

Here’s the bottom bowl… there’s quite a bit of flange to carry to carry the load.  Time will tell if it’s not enough support.  It wouldn’t be that difficult to hard-mount the Curtiss drain valve on something structural and fabricate a hard-line to the valve.

 

[PA24Lvr]

On 4/8/2026 at 4:58 PM, ProtoFly said:

My gascolator is missing the threaded part that has the pull-ring on it.  My search of the IPC doesn't seem to be clear on a part number for that.  Anyone know what the part number might be?  The threaded rod is sticking up, and the threads look good - just missing the doohickey....

I believe that it’s a short length of 3/8” diameter steel with a 10-32 threaded hole and a cross drilled hole with a a pull ring.  Shouldn’t be too difficult to make one.  Never seen an actual part number for it.

Clarence

[hammdo]

Mine looks like this right after overhaul:

[Andy95W]

On 4/10/2026 at 10:02 PM, hammdo said:

Mine looks like this right after overhaul:

Don- that safety wire should really be connected to something that can’t move.  As it sits, the entire assembly could be rotated and loosen the bolt because it is basically safety wire to itself.

Not very likely, but something to address in the future I’d think.  Clarence?  @PA24Lvr

[hammdo]

Maxwells did the safety wire but what you noted makes sense…

-Don

[EricJ]

49 minutes ago, hammdo said:

Maxwells did the safety wire but what you noted makes sense…

-Don

Yeah, now I'm trying to remember how I did it last.  

[PA24Lvr]

3 hours ago, Andy95W said:

Don- that safety wire should really be connected to something that can’t move.  As it sits, the entire assembly could be rotated and loosen the bolt because it is basically safety wire to itself.

Not very likely, but something to address in the future I’d think.  Clarence?  @PA24Lvr

I'd add that the CCA1550 drain valve appears to be sealed with Teflon tape, another No No.

Clarence

[hammdo]

Wonder how that passed, ez-turn would be the right stuff…

-Don