Shadow722 Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 Fellow Mooney Drivers and Maintenance Gurus, My engine is getting a rebuild and I have access to the firewall and structures of my '77 M20J 201 (serial no 24-0321). May I ask for recommendations for items to clean, inspect, change etc.? Already planning on putting a Whelan LED 14v landing light in, PAR 36 or PAR 46, what does this gang recommend? Also, while I expect a thorough guidance on breaking in the rebuilt Lycoming from Triad Engines, can I get some thoughts on that as well? Other considerations and recommendations are welcome. I'm new to this forum, but have been watching for a little while. Thanks much in advance for your words of wisdom! Very respectfully, George L. Cowan N201PV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M016576 Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 Would be a good time to replace your alternator with a plane power unit and also replace your starter with a skytec model: total weight savings will be about 12lbs.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetdriven Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 Polish the firewall, reprime and paint the engine mount with epoxy primer and urethane, replace that crappy leaking slide valve heater box with the flapper kind (78 and up), replace all the hoses, clean up the wiring harness and shield the engine monitor wires. Break in using Lycoming instructions. None of that 65% ful rich for 50 hours bad advice. LOP is your choice. But regardless, more cylinder pressure and cooler CHTs are your friend. We have a '77 J on blocks doing the same thing right now also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwixdraw Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 Check your cooling baffles and repair or replace as needed. Mine have a lot of corrosion on them and the holes where the spring hold the baffles close to the cylinders on the bottom had additional hole from vibration wearing through them. I'm re-enforcing those tabs and the holes using a small brass grommet from a saddle shop. This is also a good time to delete the ram air and modify the air box if needed. Mine had a hole worn in the bottom from the cable housing vibrating against it so more repairs. If you delete the ram air you should also close up the hole in the lower cowling. The landing light is a par 46. A par 36 is the smaller diameter light like in a 231. Check your camlocks in the cowl and at the front of the nose gear well. The aluminum section where the camlock receptile is was worn badly from the nose gear doors on mine and had started to crack the stainless section that closes off the nose gear well. Check the stud for your steering horn while you have this area open so you can see how worn it is and can decide if you want to do Lasers STC at this time. This one can save you a nasty loss of control incident if you fix it before it breaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwixdraw Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 Also a good time to get your oil cooler cleaned or replaced. Pacific Oil Cooler has a nice PMA cooler that replaces the more expensive Stuart-Warner. Around $500 but check with them for current pricing. They can also overhaul yours if it's in good shape. You should consider the condition of your prop and governor. The prop will collect centrifuged crud in it's internals. If it's due for overhaul do that. If it's not then at least consider having it inspected and resealed. This will make sure it's clean inside and not running crap through your new engine. Same deal with the governor though they don't have near the ability to hide crud in them. There have been many updates on them since new and mine ran me $1400 to overhaul at Santa Monica Propellor because all of the internals were obsolete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetdriven Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 Pacific cleaned and recertified ours for 179$. Unexpectedly added to the bill was 100$ for "fin straightening". That was a surprise because perhaps 4 of them were bent. I was not pleased at that. we also sent our 1325 TT SNEW McCauley C214 prop to San Antonio for a clean, repaint, and reseal. 600$. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwixdraw Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 Yours must have been in pretty good shape Byron. The tanks on mine were corrosion pitted badly & it popped under pressure. I have been through their facility and it is a neat thing to see. They do a lot with warbirds and even formula 1 cars. I drive a Ford Powerstroke and those have some nasty problems with the liquid-liquid heat exchangers. They invited me to bring one in and see if they could clean it. If they couldn't do it there would be no charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seth Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 When I had the engine overhauled on the my Mooney Missile at purchase, I had the following worked on at the same time: -Engine mount overhauled -Prop flushed (it had recently been overhauled but there may have been metal contamination in the oil - as we found metal contamination in the filter) -Prop governor overhauled -Engine monitor installed JPI EDM 830 I'll look up my logs and see what else we did. -Seth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesm Posted July 30, 2012 Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 Depending on you engine mount paint condition you might want to consider having your mount powder coated. if you use light color it is easier the cracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M016576 Posted July 30, 2012 Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 Quote: jamesm Depending on you engine mount paint condition you might want to consider having your mount powder coated. if you use light color it is easier the cracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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