dkkim73 Posted Tuesday at 12:47 AM Report Share Posted Tuesday at 12:47 AM Hi All, So, I've had some electrical noise (on audio) when running the Low Boost pump. Someone suggested cleaning the switch first (though the brushes in the pump might more likely be bad). It looked very simple behind the panel, so I removed it to clean. Pulling off the front printed shield, I found multiple bits of clear plastic... it basically came apart. Talking with the local avionics shop, it sounds like this is a light guide between the rocker cover and the underlying contacts. I suppose it might be reparable, or usable without the lightguide piece, but it seems better to replace it if possible. It's a "110-P10" made by ETA (Germany), 10A rating, and looks like it has a breaker function integral. The Mooney parts manual lists it as "930023-311". Anyone have one, or tips on best sourcing it? I see some 8A switches listed on-line, otherwise appear similar, but no 10A examples readily available. The shop is also going to look around. Hoping to get one ASAP to fly for work next week. Thank you, David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LANCECASPER Posted Tuesday at 01:29 AM Report Share Posted Tuesday at 01:29 AM 47 minutes ago, dkkim73 said: Hi All, So, I've had some electrical noise (on audio) when running the Low Boost pump. Someone suggested cleaning the switch first (though the brushes in the pump might more likely be bad). It looked very simple behind the panel, so I removed it to clean. Pulling off the front printed shield, I found multiple bits of clear plastic... it basically came apart. Talking with the local avionics shop, it sounds like this is a light guide between the rocker cover and the underlying contacts. I suppose it might be reparable, or usable without the lightguide piece, but it seems better to replace it if possible. It's a "110-P10" made by ETA (Germany), 10A rating, and looks like it has a breaker function integral. The Mooney parts manual lists it as "930023-311". Anyone have one, or tips on best sourcing it? I see some 8A switches listed on-line, otherwise appear similar, but no 10A examples readily available. The shop is also going to look around. Hoping to get one ASAP to fly for work next week. Thank you, David Have you tried a Mooney Service Center? If they're in stock Mooney can drop-ship it to you. Or BAS has some switches that you could possibly re-label https://baspartsales.com/search-results-page?q=930023 Especially this one: https://baspartsales.com/930023-111-mooney-m20j-eta-fuel-boost-pump-rocker-switch/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkkim73 Posted Tuesday at 01:32 AM Author Report Share Posted Tuesday at 01:32 AM @LANCECASPER Figured out the issue around close-of-business, so I'll have to try tomorrow AM. Will do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkkim73 Posted Wednesday at 04:55 PM Author Report Share Posted Wednesday at 04:55 PM Hi again @LANCECASPER, great minds think alike. I did some calling and searching and concluding that breaker off the M20J should work fine (same guts and rating). Different part #s but I think there was supercession and also functional commonality across many of these. Does anyone here know the proper way to test one of these? I just received it today and have continuity. I do have a controllable current supply from my recent battery testing and an electronic load. An older thread mentions checking against current/time curves (presumably from the manufacturer), but I haven't found any: Also was not able to find it in the MAN180 (service manual) though that might be my lack of search-fu. Naively I would just slowly turn up the current supply (DC) until it pops, or I hit something reasonable like 20% over (12A), but the last thing I want to do is fry the new part with blunt methods. thx David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LANCECASPER Posted Wednesday at 04:56 PM Report Share Posted Wednesday at 04:56 PM Just now, dkkim73 said: Hi again @LANCECASPER, great minds think alike. But what does that have to do with us? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted Wednesday at 05:05 PM Report Share Posted Wednesday at 05:05 PM 6 minutes ago, dkkim73 said: Hi again @LANCECASPER, great minds think alike. I did some calling and searching and concluding that breaker off the M20J should work fine (same guts and rating). Different part #s but I think there was supercession and also functional commonality across many of these. Does anyone here know the proper way to test one of these? I just received it today and have continuity. I do have a controllable current supply from my recent battery testing and an electronic load. An older thread mentions checking against current/time curves (presumably from the manufacturer), but I haven't found any: Also was not able to find it in the MAN180 (service manual) though that might be my lack of search-fu. Naively I would just slowly turn up the current supply (DC) until it pops, or I hit something reasonable like 20% over (12A), but the last thing I want to do is fry the new part with blunt methods. thx David If you connect the breaker to your power supply and set the current limit to the rated current of the breaker, it should not trip. The amount of current it takes to trip it is time dependant. to get it to trip you will probably need to go 20-30% over the rated current. These breakers have a bimetallic disk that you need to heat up. It can take a while if you are just a little over the rated current. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted Wednesday at 05:16 PM Report Share Posted Wednesday at 05:16 PM Here is the time current chart for an ETA 110-P10 breaker: https://www.relayspec.com/specs/053/D_110_111_e_030305.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkkim73 Posted Wednesday at 06:33 PM Author Report Share Posted Wednesday at 06:33 PM @N201MKTurbo Thanks, Rich, that is super-helpful. Where did you find it? Just tested it (needed a car battery to keep up the current through the load). Peace of mind... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted Wednesday at 07:27 PM Report Share Posted Wednesday at 07:27 PM 53 minutes ago, dkkim73 said: @N201MKTurbo Thanks, Rich, that is super-helpful. Where did you find it? Just tested it (needed a car battery to keep up the current through the load). Peace of mind... The link above the chart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerodon Posted Wednesday at 07:36 PM Report Share Posted Wednesday at 07:36 PM On 9/30/2024 at 5:47 PM, dkkim73 said: Hi All, So, I've had some electrical noise (on audio) when running the Low Boost pump. Someone suggested cleaning the switch first (though the brushes in the pump might more likely be bad). It looked very simple behind the panel, so I removed it to clean. Pulling off the front printed shield, I found multiple bits of clear plastic... it basically came apart. Talking with the local avionics shop, it sounds like this is a light guide between the rocker cover and the underlying contacts. I suppose it might be reparable, or usable without the lightguide piece, but it seems better to replace it if possible. It's a "110-P10" made by ETA (Germany), 10A rating, and looks like it has a breaker function integral. The Mooney parts manual lists it as "930023-311". Anyone have one, or tips on best sourcing it? I see some 8A switches listed on-line, otherwise appear similar, but no 10A examples readily available. The shop is also going to look around. Hoping to get one ASAP to fly for work next week. Thank you, David I have on for you, PM to follow. Aerodon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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