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Posted

Don't forget that the cylinder rocker boss needs to be flat too.  Use a small flat file (brake off a 2inch section) so you can get it in the nooks.  Use your finger to push the file around the cover mating surface.  A high spot will show and needs to be worked until flat.  For the stamped steel covers use a small hammer to get the area around the screw hole flat and then find a surface plate, sheet of glass, something flat and set a sheet of sandpaper and lightly move in a figure 8.  This will show highs and lows and work so they are consistent.

Jim

Posted
2 hours ago, DCarlton said:

A bit of a tangent.  What type of torque wrench do the pros prefer for these smaller torque values?  I bought a little beam style torque wrench years ago to do some work on my car but it's not the greatest.  My other better torque wrenches start at 120 in-lbs.  

Just get a small torque wrench, sometimes called a micro-torque wrench, that has a lower range of settings.   They may be 1/4" or 3/8" drive, so pick one you like.

This is the cheapie one at Harbor Freight, but they're actually pretty decent and definitely suitable for things like rocker cover screws:

https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-drive-20-to-200-in-lb-click-torque-wrench-63881.html

 

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Posted

Awhile back on Mooneyspace someone was torquing their silicone fuel sender gaskets and wondering why they were leaking. They were using foot pounds, not inch pounds and mutilating the gasket by using 12 times the force needed.

  • Haha 1
Posted
5 hours ago, larryb said:

The light torque required for silicon is not tight enough to keep it from vibrating out without the loctite.

My silicone gaskets have held fine without any loctite.

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