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Posted

Since owning my J, I have removed the glareshield several times, but I don’t feel like I’ve ever figured out the best way to do it. The problem I run into is the cut out around the center post has broken a section of the glare shield, and it was this way before I bought the plane, and I have to be imagine there’s a better way to do it to protect this area, and just make it an easier task overall.

And I have to imagine there’s a better way to do it to protect this area, and just make it an easier task overall.

Is there a specific way to flex the halves to avoid any more damage? as a note, all of the interior panels have been removed, so those don’t get in the way and the only thing left is the aluminum structure. Any help would be appreciated.

As a note, all of the interior panels have been removed, so those don’t get in the way and the only thing left is the aluminum structure. Any help would be appreciated.

Chuck

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Posted

28dac959939c0bbe807f2c3bed4bd30b.jpeg

Later models had the highlighted section above cut out and then after installation another black piece fit on top and attached with hook/loop fastener.

0cbb45c9d7afd80a0ece770cc97ae84f.jpg


Yours could be modified. Hector at Aerocomfort repairs them and covers them in black ultraleather and they look better than new when he is done
 

Posted
2 hours ago, LANCECASPER said:

28dac959939c0bbe807f2c3bed4bd30b.jpeg

Later models had the highlighted section above cut out and then after installation another black piece fit on top and attached with hook/loop fastener.

0cbb45c9d7afd80a0ece770cc97ae84f.jpg


Yours could be modified. Hector at Aerocomfort repairs them and covers them in black ultraleather and they look better than new when he is done
 

After messing with this glareshield and experiencing the difficulties I have, I definitely understand why the design was changed.

Posted

My 77 with the flat glareshield has a wide groove to accomodate the tube and a cover to go over it as well.   My cover is held down by screws into a piece of phenolic block attached to the tubing, though.

Posted

I've owned a '78 and a '94 M20J. The '78 came out very easily. The '94 is a different design with the hump in the middle and it is very difficult to get out with the interior side panels in place because you have to flex it a lot. Also, the '78 had a plate that screwed down the center between the windshield and the post and '94 does not. Mine looks like @RoundTwo's. I repaired the plastic and bought a Glare Shield Repair Kit from Bruce Jaeger. I don't know if the current owners of Jaeger/Wisconsin Aviation still sell this. It is a plate that supports the center of the glare shield from underneath and a metal black powder coated cover goes on top. Four screws attach the top plate to the bottom plate with the plastic glare shield sandwiched in between. This also allows cutting a larger hole in the center which makes it easier to maneuver around the center post. I found that the black metal plate got hot when parked in the sun and softened the glare shield plastic, so I reproduced the plate from a piece of black ABS. I have a couple of thin plastic sheets that I place between A pillars and the glare shield when removing it that makes it slide past the pillars a little easier, and I remove the compass from the post to have more room. I also put some rubber U-channel on the front edge because it tends to scratch the inside of the windshield when maneuvering it during removal. 

 

Glareshield repair kit.pdf

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Posted

So when it was time to put the glareshield back in, I vowed to be methodical about it and figure out how Mooney intended it to be done, because it was just too difficult the way I was doing it before.

It turns out, the “secret” is to come in from as close to the ceiling, and as parallel to the front post as possible. When I held the pilot side of the glareshield right up against the headliner, it easily slipped over the center post and slid in without much issue at all. That was much easier than what I went through before.

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