Jump to content

Oil filter stuck


Recommended Posts

I've done all my oil changes since I bought 3514H around 1995. The filters came of without a fuss and I never had a leak. A couple of years ago I convert it to an IO 350 A3B6 so it uses a different filter which was installed by the shop that did the conversion. At the first oil change it was stuck so hard I had to find a 6 point wrench to loosen it as the12 point I used for all those years rounded the nut. When I installed the fresh filter I made sure it wasn't on too tight. At the next oil change I found it still  hard to break free even though I know I didn't over-tighten it. The last oil change was done by a shop during annual and they must have made sure it wasn't coming loose,  So today the only way I was able to get that filter off was to grab the nut with a set of 18 in plyers and pulled with everything I had and finally it started to turn but not before the entire filter was distorted. There seems to something about this 48110-2 filter that causes it to stick. Anyone else using this filter find this to be the case?   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you use a Tempest filter it specifically says not to use any lube at all, really felt wrong to me, but it’s worked fine.

Who would have thought the manufacturer would be right?

This is as far as I know for Tempest only, but a 48110-2 is a Tempest I believe?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, when they get stuck, use a band type wrench and get low on the filter near the base as it is the strongest part to take the compression of the band without denting.

I've found if you torque them right, they don't stick. The Tempest tool which I really like but does not fit my IO-550 because there is not enough room between the filter top and the standby alternator is preset at 17 ft-pounds. Tempest says 16-18 ft-pounds. I do 16 and you still have to "grunt" to get it loose by the bolt top, but it will loosen nicely.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can’t get the torque wrench on my IO-360-A3B6 filter either. I just turn them 3/4 turn after the gasket makes contact like an auto filter and they don’t leak and come off easily. Really, a torque spec doesn’t make a lot of sense with a rubber gasket. I’m pretty sure that the spec is just to keep from over tightening.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, PT20J said:

I can’t get the torque wrench on my IO-360-A3B6 filter either. I just turn them 3/4 turn after the gasket makes contact like an auto filter and they don’t leak and come off easily. Really, a torque spec doesn’t make a lot of sense with a rubber gasket. I’m pretty sure that the spec is just to keep from over tightening.

Actually torquing any fastener can be argued to not make sense, because it’s really not as accurate as using crush washers or the wrench arc torque method.

https://www.enginelabs.com/news/back-to-basics-torque-angle-explained-and-demonstrated/

Reason is because what your doing by torquing a faster is stretching it or compressing something, if thread pitch is known then the exact amount of stretch or compression can be known by the degrees of the arc,  the further it’s turned them more a faster is stretched. A torque wrench doesn’t measure stretch just torque applied so it’s not as accurate, but it is easier and faster. 

So in other words the snug it, then 3/4 turn may be more precise in compressing the gasket than using a torque wrench, because among other things an oil filter in Wisconsin in February is going to take a LOT more torque to get the same compression as one in Fl in July.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good suggestions. Thanks for the replies. The part that I don't get is why the 48110-1 filter I used for years never stuck. I don't have one of those filters to compare but I think the -2 filter I'm using now has a thicker rubber seal. When it contacts it flattens and has more contact surface causing the sticking.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, JimB said:

I have had success with using a strap wrench on both cars and aircraft when needed. 

 

image-1

The problem I would have had with this kind of tool is the lever arm is too short. My filter was really stuck. My 18 inch slip joint plyers have a lever arm of about 12 inches. It took both hands on the plyers and pulling a couple of times with all I had to finally break it loose. I applied so much force that the entire filter distorted. It had to have been 150 to 200 ft-lbs. Truly an extreme case. Maybe the installer didn't use any lube.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

58 minutes ago, rotorman said:

The problem I would have had with this kind of tool is the lever arm is too short. My filter was really stuck. My 18 inch slip joint plyers have a lever arm of about 12 inches. It took both hands on the plyers and pulling a couple of times with all I had to finally break it loose. I applied so much force that the entire filter distorted. It had to have been 150 to 200 ft-lbs. Truly an extreme case. Maybe the installer didn't use any lube.

Fully understand. The problem is that the recommended torque on these filters is pretty high at 16-18 ft/lbs.  image.jpeg.fe869cea65e99febd7df2b9c029dc508.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, rotorman said:

The problem I would have had with this kind of tool is the lever arm is too short. My filter was really stuck. My 18 inch slip joint plyers have a lever arm of about 12 inches. It took both hands on the plyers and pulling a couple of times with all I had to finally break it loose. I applied so much force that the entire filter distorted. It had to have been 150 to 200 ft-lbs. Truly an extreme case. Maybe the installer didn't use any lube.

In my experience the pre-lubed Tempest filters are hardest to take off if you *do* use lube.   I failed to wipe the oil off the sealing surface once and had a very, very hard time getting that one off.    If you just follow the instructions and not lube it, they're generally easy to get off.    If they do get sufficient oil on them they're harder to remove.

Strap wrenches work well, but a 1" box-end wrench is my go-to when it gets difficult to get off.

I bought a new Ford Ranger that has the oil filter in an odd location, and while I managed to get a strap filter in there to get it off, I discovered that a lot of people use these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR53A

Applying removal torque tightens the grip on it, like a strap wrench does, but this may provide access if there isn't space for a strap wrench or other tool.   I haven't used it yet, but it might work on an airplane as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have several strap wrenches including one like JimB's above but the one that does the best, weirdly, is the Penzoil strap wrench made out of plastic. I don't know why, but if I can't get a filter to budge, it always gets the job done. I can't explain it but it just works really good and it's cheap!

https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Accessories-19425-Wrench-Pennzoil/dp/B0058I0T7S/ref=sr_1_5?hvadid=516871023049&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9010778&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=15641243085195409308&hvtargid=kwd-1257502036018&hydadcr=29035_10165969&keywords=pennzoil+strap+wrench&qid=1686067340&sr=8-5

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, GeeBee said:

I have several strap wrenches including one like JimB's above but the one that does the best, weirdly, is the Penzoil strap wrench made out of plastic. I don't know why, but if I can't get a filter to budge, it always gets the job done. I can't explain it but it just works really good and it's cheap!

https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Accessories-19425-Wrench-Pennzoil/dp/B0058I0T7S/ref=sr_1_5?hvadid=516871023049&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9010778&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=15641243085195409308&hvtargid=kwd-1257502036018&hydadcr=29035_10165969&keywords=pennzoil+strap+wrench&qid=1686067340&sr=8-5

They're about half that at Harbor Freight.    Same stuff.   I use plastic ones as well, but I don't remember where I got them.

https://www.harborfreight.com/rubber-strap-wrench-set-2-piece-69373.html

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/4/2023 at 11:51 PM, PT20J said:

I can’t get the torque wrench on my IO-360-A3B6 filter either. I just turn them 3/4 turn after the gasket makes contact like an auto filter and they don’t leak and come off easily. Really, a torque spec doesn’t make a lot of sense with a rubber gasket. I’m pretty sure that the spec is just to keep from over tightening.

I bought a shallow socket that allows me to get on the filter with a torque wrench.   3/8" drive, the socket is only about 1-1/2" long.  It was a real tight fit on our previous C, there seems to be a bit more room on our '83 J. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, 0TreeLemur said:

I bought a shallow socket that allows me to get on the filter with a torque wrench.   3/8" drive, the socket is only about 1-1/2" long.  It was a real tight fit on our previous C, there seems to be a bit more room on our '83 J. 

It's not a problem with the A3B6D. The A3B6 has the filter mounted farther aft and the lip where the top cowling mounts interferes. I'm pretty sure that the Tempest wrench would fit because I have a 1" ratchet box end wrench that will get on it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, PT20J said:

It's not a problem with the A3B6D. The A3B6 has the filter mounted farther aft and the lip where the top cowling mounts interferes. I'm pretty sure that the Tempest wrench would fit because I have a 1" ratchet box end wrench that will get on it.

Score one for the A3B6D!  :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/6/2023 at 8:53 AM, EricJ said:

In my experience the pre-lubed Tempest filters are hardest to take off if you *do* use lube.   I failed to wipe the oil off the sealing surface once and had a very, very hard time getting that one off.    If you just follow the instructions and not lube it, they're generally easy to get off.    If they do get sufficient oil on them they're harder to remove.

Strap wrenches work well, but a 1" box-end wrench is my go-to when it gets difficult to get off.

I bought a new Ford Ranger that has the oil filter in an odd location, and while I managed to get a strap filter in there to get it off, I discovered that a lot of people use these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR53A

Applying removal torque tightens the grip on it, like a strap wrench does, but this may provide access if there isn't space for a strap wrench or other tool.   I haven't used it yet, but it might work on an airplane as well.

Interesting tool. I have never seen on of like it. And cheap. But I'm not sure there is enough room between filter and the firewall when you add the drive to the tool.. I was using a 1" claw on a 3/8 drive that worked well but it is a 12 point minus the opening so not enough grip with this filter. I ended with a rounded nut.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.