External battery jumpers - question

[joepilotmooney]

I have a set of the Mooney external jumper cables back at the hangar. Have never actually needed them so never keep them in the plane. But I am up in the UP of MI and the plane is sitting for a month. I am wondering if I ever have to, is is possible to use standard auto battery clamps to connect to the rectangular external port on the fuselage if necessary? There are two pins there, so might need a smaller set of clamps? Any ideas from folks on this?

[PeteMc]

If you're talking about the port in the side of the plane, is it really only 2 pins?  There isn't a smaller 3rd pin in there that opens the relay once the main two wires have already been connected.  As you mentioned, the next big issue is getting the larger auto clamps in there without arcing.

I'd stick with the regular jumper cables with the correct connector.  And I'd also suggest keeping the cables in the plane...  Yes, there have been the few times where the plane had been sitting in some really cold Wx for a few days and while pre-heating I'll plug in the jumper cables to warm the battery.  But the times I've REALLY needed them have all been away from home and not having them would have been an issue.  Once the the rear overhead light was bumped removing baggage mid day, then there was the time I pulled onto a super bright ramp and just forgot I had turned on the overhead light while taxiing.  And then there was the time the battery was starting to go and scheduled to be replaced at the annual in a few weeks....  Well, it wasn't even cold enough to pre-heat, but when we got back to the plane it just didn't quite have enough punch to start the plane.  In ALL of these cases there was no one around with any kind of power unit.  But in all the cases there was someone that had a car, but either car jumpers or no jumpers. 

If you really don't want to carry your cables, there is just a plug you can get with knobs on the end.  Those work great with car jumper cables.  But you still have to hope someone has a set of cables with them.

 

Edited December 2, 2022 by PeteMc

[joepilotmooney]

Thanks Pete; well up her in the great north, everyone has car jumper cables so good there. I wonder where I can get this plug you speak of,  (that would plug into the fuselage port?)with some leads on it that could connect to a battery or just car cables?

[LANCECASPER]

2 minutes ago, joepilotmooney said:

Thanks Pete; well up her in the great north, everyone has car jumper cables so good there. I wonder where I can get this plug you speak of,  (that would plug into the fuselage port?)with some leads on it that could connect to a battery or just car cables?

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/plugnjump.php

[N201MKTurbo]

If I have to jump the battery with auto cables, I just remove the tail access port and hook the negative clamp to the ground bolt for the negative Battery cable and the positive clamp to the battery terminal on the master relay.

I always do this with the tail chained down so I can put the cover back on with the engine running. Then get your helper to remove the chain with you holding the brakes.

[joepilotmooney]

Thanks guys - I've had to put the battery box cover back on once and it was a real chore, so I don't want to do that again, esp. if it's 20 deg F out!

[SARNorm]

Where can one obtain a battery charger that plugs into the accessory electrical side port?

[201Mooniac]

The only charger with the three pin plug I've seen was quite expensive.  You can use the plug that was referenced above with a standard battery charger.

[EricJ]

4 minutes ago, SARNorm said:

Where can one obtain a battery charger that plugs into the accessory electrical side port?

I made my own, but AS sells this, which is actually a better unit:

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/portPowerCharger.php

They have a 24V version as well.

 

[A64Pilot]

Once I left the Master on the 210, Mon morning early I had to fly to work and discovered what I had done, I tried hand propping, but that wasn’t going to work, probably would have hurt myself if it had. So I rushed off to Walmart and bought two 12V batteries and a short battery cable. I bought two big RV batteries because I had one, so off back to the Airport where I jumpered the batteries in series, the battery on a 210 is just in the firewall so I removed the engine cowling, connected the cables, got her started and  put the cowling back and the battery cover on with the engine running, put the car in the parking lot and filed my IFR on the phone. As this was Ozark Al I had the airport to myself thankfully.

Now I never leave cables and like 12V airplanes because they can be jumped from a car. 24V airplanes can be jumped from a golf cart if one’s around, just be sure to hook up to 24V cause they are usually either 36V or 48V.

It’s a whole lot easier to jumper an airplane using the APU plug if you have one.

Some airplanes, Cessna comes to mind power up the Avionics if you plug into the APU plug, be sure your doesn’t if you plan to charge the battery that way

[Pinecone]

I have the 24 volt version of the charger linked.

At least on my 252 the master controls the power to anything up front.

[Ragsf15e]

3 hours ago, joepilotmooney said:

Thanks guys - I've had to put the battery box cover back on once and it was a real chore, so I don't want to do that again, esp. if it's 20 deg F out!

Not as elegant as the cable, but if you do as @N201MKTurbo suggested, you don’t remove the top of the battery box.  Remove tail access cover (which isn’t too bad to replace), then hook the cables up as he instructed.  Both of those connections are outside the battery box.  As I said, the cable for the ground power is better but just the tail access panel isn’t bad.

[N201MKTurbo]

Another thing with trying to jump to the battery, it is hard to keep the positive clamp from hitting the battery box. You get lots of sparks and smoke and it isn’t good for your battery box.

Besides, as said above, putting the top on the battery box is a PITA in a quiet hangar, in the prop wash on a ramp is A real big PITA.

[Ragsf15e]

Always try to keep the magic smoke inside the electronics.  They won’t work if you let it out.

[Beard]

I carry the "Plug & Jump Universal" devise that can be purchased from Aircraft Spruce.  I had to use it once and had no problem finding someone with jumper cables in their truck. After the plane started they simply unplugged the devise and passed it to me through the vent window. Below is the link to the devise at Aircraft Spruce and a picture.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/plugnjump.php?clickkey=13070

[Joe Linnebur]

57 minutes ago, Beard said:

I carry the "Plug & Jump Universal" devise that can be purchased from Aircraft Spruce.  I had to use it once and had no problem finding someone with jumper cables in their truck. After the plane started they simply unplugged the devise and passed it to me through the vent window. Below is the link to the devise at Aircraft Spruce and a picture.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/plugnjump.php?clickkey=13070

I’m considering this or the other plug-in version with the jumper cables already attached. Does this connector have any issues fitting into the gpu plug? I’ve read some feedback complaining about how tight fitting it was. 

[N201MKTurbo]

36 minutes ago, Joe Linnebur said:

I’m considering this or the other plug-in version with the jumper cables already attached. Does this connector have any issues fitting into the gpu plug? I’ve read some feedback complaining about how tight fitting it was. 

Any plug will be tight fitting when it is new. The only ones that go on easy are the ones at the FBOs that are used a lot. If that is a concern for you, the best thing you can do is clean your pins on the airplane. Most, mine included are old and a bit oxidized If at annual you cleaned them with some steel wool and lubed them the plugs will go on much easier. I think I'll add this to my annual check list. It will only take a few minutes.

[Pinecone]

If you are going to use steel wool, make SURE there is no power on them.  Scotch Brite would be safer.

[PeteMc]

2 hours ago, N201MKTurbo said:

the best thing you can do is clean your pins on the airplane

Since you don't know when you're going to need to jump your plane so you can clean the connectors before you leave the hangar...  I'll suggest what I do with the plug and electronics for years.  That is simple what's referred to as "exercising" the contacts.  Push in the plug, then pull it right back off 3-4 times.  Unless there's something really corroded on either end, as it it should be replaced, then exercising it a bit should scrape everything enough to get a good connection.

 

[N201MKTurbo]

1 hour ago, PeteMc said:

Since you don't know when you're going to need to jump your plane so you can clean the connectors before you leave the hangar...  I'll suggest what I do with the plug and electronics for years.  That is simple what's referred to as "exercising" the contacts.  Push in the plug, then pull it right back off 3-4 times.  Unless there's something really corroded on either end, as it it should be replaced, then exercising it a bit should scrape everything enough to get a good connection.

 

Sure, but the problem is when the pins are old and nasty, it is pretty hard to push the connector in, and considering that the ship’s connector is mounted to the lid of the battery box, it is kind of traumatic on the whole thing every time you push it in. My suggestion was intended to make it easier to push in, not to improve the electrical connection.

[joepilotmooney]

I am now figuring I will plug in the battery trickle charger a couple days ahead of our trip, since I have to plug in the heater anyway at that time. (Flying out of Manistique, MI) So at least the battery will be fully charged when I go to start, even if it  is real cold outside, I should be ok?

The heater I am using is from aircraftheaters.com, and it works really well so far. You place it on top of the motor through either engine cowling air inlet. It just sits on top in there. We have the cowling plugs and that keeps the warm air in. The cord is like 40 feet long I think.

[Fly Boomer]

4 minutes ago, joepilotmooney said:

The heater I am using is from aircraftheaters.com, and it works really well so far. You place it on top of the motor through either engine cowling air inlet. It just sits on top in there. We have the cowling plugs and that keeps the warm air in. The cord is like 40 feet long I think.

An insulating blanket of some sort draped over the top of the cowling will help.

[trevttu76]

Similar to the yellow device above;  I bought this and then attached a set of cheap cables. The booster cables are soldered into the end permanently.  This way I don't have to worry about finding someone with cables.  It is light/small and I keep it in my plane at all times.   All in (this part and cables) was about $75.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/jumperplug.php?clickkey=51945

 

Alternative #2 is buying this same setup already made for you; cost is $180.  My setup is exactly the same for $100 less...

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/el/jumpercablesplugs_cables/jumpercables.php

[DonMuncy]

10 minutes ago, trevttu76 said:

Similar to the yellow device above;  I bought this and then attached a set of cheap cables. The booster cables are soldered into the end permanently.  This way I don't have to worry about finding someone with cables.  It is light/small and I keep it in my plane at all times.   All in (this part and cables) was about $75.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/jumperplug.php?clickkey=51945

 

Alternative #2 is buying this same setup already made for you; cost is $180.  My setup is exactly the same for $100 less...

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/el/jumpercablesplugs_cables/jumpercables.php

Those are 4 gauge; awfully heavy (a good thing when jumping). My guess that the ones you built are not that heavy.

[trevttu76]

59 minutes ago, DonMuncy said:

Those are 4 gauge; awfully heavy (a good thing when jumping). My guess that the ones you built are not that heavy.

Agreed, those are super thick heavy duty cables.  I did not use something that thick, but I don't recall the gauge.  Easy to coil for storage and light to carry.