M20E Power Boost Door Rigging

[TheAv8r]

I just got my bird back from MX. I didn’t notice it on the walk around but once I got the plane back to the hangar I saw, even when the RAM Air Boost is closed in the cockpit, the door is slightly open (maybe by 20%). I did not have a great experience with this shop and am hesitant to let them touch the plane again and fix it. How difficult is it to adjust the cable rigging so that the door is closed all the way when the cable is closed?

[Shadrach]

17 hours ago, TheAv8r said:

I just got my bird back from MX. I didn’t notice it on the walk around but once I got the plane back to the hangar I saw, even when the RAM Air Boost is closed in the cockpit, the door is slightly open (maybe by 20%). I did not have a great experience with this shop and am hesitant to let them touch the plane again and fix it. How difficult is it to adjust the cable rigging so that the door is closed all the way when the cable is closed?

It’s well within the scope of the capabilities of most any maintenance professionals. The cable and door mechanism can be viewed from the left with the pilots side cowl cover removed.  You might reach in and gently try rotating the arm to see if there is play in the system.

[Yetti]

It's like adjusting mechanical disk brakes on a bike.   The problem is it is Bowden cable like on an old choke cable.   Clamps for Bowden cable are iffy at best.    So I believe there was some safety wire creativity used on mine to make it stay.   All work was performed under the watchful eye of the grumpy IA.

[Igor_U]

As mentioned above, Clamp holding the Bowden cable shield might not be tight. This should be visible by removing the LHS cowl panel. on my plane, I secure this with safety wire; my IA showed me a nice way of doing it some time ago.

The inner wire is connected to the door lever by #10 screw (IIRC) and on my plane it is hidden by the LHS landing light that is replacing the Oil cooler (my plane has a 201 oil cooler relocation mod). This makes things difficult if inner wire needs adjustment to the point of I might need to drop the LWR cowl or do some blind wrecking behind the light.

If you still have oil cooler at original location, access might be different.

Good luck

[MB65E]

I just run mine wide open most of the time. The filter system is a joke. Bracket has the best protection. I bought a Challanger filter from Our dear friend Bob Belville. It’s a little nicer than the goop but still leaves a lot to be desired. 
 

Think lawn mower cable with a little micro switch on it. I have a little adaptor on mine with a nicer set screw. Overall it would be nice to see a nice cold air induction inlet. 
-Matt

[FlyingDude]

Pull the control knob out very slightly, a couple mm (1/16-1/15") Then loosen the nut holding the cable, push the ram air door shut and then retighten it. Then push the control knob all the way in to check that it does indeed go. This means that the initial pull-out compensated for the slacks and plays in the system. The knob needs to go in so that the microswitch that activates a small light when the gear is down and ram air is open at the same time can be triggered.

Of course, I'm just a dude on MS. Run this with your AP and get his blessings before touching anything.