Looking for 600115-005 intake bellows

[Sailorsmuse1]

If you have a 600115-005 intake bellows available, please contact me at

239-465-2261

[Ragsf15e]

3 hours ago, Sailorsmuse1 said:

If you have a 600115-005 intake bellows available, please contact me at

239-465-2261

That’s a tough one to get sometimes.  Certainly try Lasar or Dmax to order one.  That may not work.  Sometimes @Alan Fox has used serviceable ones.  Also there’s a thread on repairing them. @N201MKTurbo might remember where?

[Alan Fox]

Nope

[Guest]

On 10/22/2022 at 12:20 PM, Sailorsmuse1 said:

If you have a 600115-005 intake bellows available, please contact me at

239-465-2261

What model?  I’m having trouble reading your mind from here. 

[Shadrach]

2 hours ago, M20Doc said:

What model?  I’m having trouble reading your mind from here. 

I believe the  part number he listed is the revised number for E’s and F’s made after 66. Currently seem to be unobtainium.

[47U]

9 minutes ago, Shadrach said:

I believe the  part number he listed is the revised number for E’s and F’s made after 66. Currently seem to be unobtainium.

Index 37… 

[Guest]

1 hour ago, Shadrach said:

I believe the  part number he listed is the revised number for E’s and F’s made after 66. Currently seem to be unobtainium.

It doesn’t take much to add the model number along with the part number when searching for impossible parts. 

[Ragsf15e]

Haven’t people used fiberglass cloth with epoxy or something similar to fix small holes? 

[47U]

1 hour ago, Ragsf15e said:

Haven’t people used fiberglass cloth with epoxy or something similar to fix small holes? 

I’ve had some success with ‘painting’ the worn spot with black high-temp RTV, a layer of fiberglass cloth well imbedded in the RTV, let that cure, then another top coat of the black RTV.  Granted, the worn spot was small (the size of dime) and the reinforcement when complete was the size of a quarter.  

The key is to prevention is to not let the intake ducting (or anything else) chafe on the bellows in the first place, if at all possible. 

[Guest]

We’ve got two of them in stock.  If neither of the next two annuals don’t require on I’ll sell one.

 

[Shadrach]

13 hours ago, 47U said:

I’ve had some success with ‘painting’ the worn spot with black high-temp RTV, a layer of fiberglass cloth well imbedded in the RTV, let that cure, then another top coat of the black RTV.  Granted, the worn spot was small (the size of dime) and the reinforcement when complete was the size of a quarter.  

The key is to prevention is to not let the intake ducting (or anything else) chafe on the bellows in the first place, if at all possible. 

I have a one I removed from service with small holes. It did not chafe against anything. I think all of the wear and tear was incurred from engine movement causing it to crease. Most likely at start up and shut down.

[A64Pilot]

I would not use Epoxy as it’s pretty inflexible, I would not use silicone as it doesn’t wear well and peels off more easily. But good thing with Silicone is it can usually be removed, Fuel tank sealer is pretty tough to remove, it’s very tenacious.

I’d use fuel tank sealer myself and install the part before it cured, fuel tank sealer is in between Epoxy and Silicone in flexibility but much tougher, plus it’s fuel and oil proof where Silicone is not, Silicone is “resistant” but not proof.

If you can get a new one I would keep the old one, you or someone else may need it one day.

[Immelman]

Used fuel tank sealer on the last one...

[Shadrach]

I have been experimenting on an old duct with Permatex 85120 adhesive  (liquid electrical tape) and 3M fabric friction tape sandwiched between layers of adhesive. It’s easier to work with then fuel tank sealant. It’s flexible, it bonds well and soaks into the fabric of the friction tape. I would not at all feel enthusiastic about putting something like this on my plane but it appears to be a very durable repair. Hopefully I’ll never have to use it.

I’m starting to get a sense of what innovative Cubans must have felt like when cutting piston rings from steel pipe for a 70 year old Chevy.

[Ragsf15e]

19 minutes ago, Shadrach said:

I have been experimenting on an old duct with Permatex 85120 adhesive  (liquid electrical tape) and 3M fabric friction tape sandwiched between layers of adhesive. It’s easier to work with then fuel tank sealant. It’s flexible, it bonds well and soaks into the fabric of the friction tape. I would not at all feel enthusiastic about putting something like this on my plane but it appears to be a very durable repair. Hopefully I’ll never have to use it.

I’m starting to get a sense of what innovative Cubans must have felt like when cutting piston rings from steel pipe for a 70 year old Chevy.

Yeah, there don’t seem to be many parts that are completely unobtanium, but this one scared me.  I just don’t get the feeling we’re going to see a large batch of new ones anytime soon and the used ones aren’t much better than the ones we’re currently using/fixing.

[JimB]

I got one from Lasar in June of 2021. They get them made in batches it would seem. It took me about a month or so to get it after I inquired. 

[Shadrach]

18 minutes ago, JimB said:

I got one from Lasar in June of 2021. They get them made in batches it would seem. It took me about a month or so to get it after I inquired. 

It might be time to do a group OPP production run like the gear blocks that we did last year. 

[Guest]

6 hours ago, Shadrach said:

It might be time to do a group OPP production run like the gear blocks that we did last year. 

I wonder if they’re made by Thermoid?

[N201MKTurbo]

27 minutes ago, M20Doc said:

I wonder if they’re made by Thermoid?

I've heard they are. But it is a customer specific drawing and tooling. They probably won't make any for anybody but Mooney. I bet if a large enough group called Mooney and were willing to put up a deposit, that Mooney would order them tomorrow.

[Igor_U]

I recently spoke to Lasar since I am on waiting list for it (and never got the call) and was told they had few batches delivered over last year or two. It seems they'll get more soon and they updated my phone number so I hope I'll get the part soon.

 

[N201MKTurbo]

I bet you could make them like fuel tank bladders. You could 3D print a negative mold of the inside of the boot with a parting line down the middle. Then fill the inside with paper mache. Remove the mold from the plug. Wrap the paper mache with fiberglass reinforced uncured rubber. Then bake it in an oven to vulcanize the rubber and then throw it in a pot of boiling water to dissolve the paper mache. Trim the edges, punch the holes and install your owner produced part.

[Fly Boomer]

42 minutes ago, M20Doc said:

I wonder if they’re made by Thermoid?

That "motor cooling boot" looks close.

[Fly Boomer]

14 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said:

I've heard they are. But it is a customer specific drawing and tooling. They probably won't make any for anybody but Mooney. I bet if a large enough group called Mooney and were willing to put up a deposit, that Mooney would order them tomorrow.

Or write a detailed spec for the part, and ask the manufacturer for a bid?

[N201MKTurbo]

8 minutes ago, Fly Boomer said:

Or write a detailed spec for the part, and ask the manufacturer for a bid?

That'll work too.

I bet Gee Bee would make them, except they would be silicone instead of rubber.

[Fly Boomer]

1 minute ago, N201MKTurbo said:

That'll work too.

I bet Gee Bee would make them, except they would be silicone instead of rubber.

and probably last forever.