47 year old side windows fogged

[Guest]

7 hours ago, jamesm said:

by chance do you have a picture of your table saw jig for the bevel  windows ?

Sorry I don’t have pictures, but can describe it for you.  I cut a piece of plywood the same size as the table. Glued and screwed another piece 2” tall and the depth of the table to the flat piece with the 2” tall piece over the blade, allowing about 050-060” of the saw blade thickness to protrude past the edge of the vertical 2” piece.

Install a very fine tooth carbide saw blade.

After measuring how much skin overlap there would be on the window edges, I wound the blade upward until it was about 1/16” higher than the amount of overlap. 

Now holding the window vertically against the 2” tall fence and squarely it, pass the window against the saw blade, this should mill out a step 1/16” by whatever overlap you measured.  After checking the fit to see that the window will fit flush with a little bit of extra clearance for sealant, I drilled all of the holes used to retain the window to the skin.  In my cases I had to drill the holes then countersink for the dimpled screws.

I found that lubricating drill bits and countersinks with Johnson’s paste floor wax helped.

Clarence

 

[David Lloyd]

2 hours ago, Jpravi8tor said:

that's a funny looking Mooney you have there mister!

A Mooney before that and a Mooney now.

[jamesm]

2 hours ago, M20Doc said:

Sorry I don’t have pictures, but can describe it for you.  I cut a piece of plywood the same size as the table. Glued and screwed another piece 2” tall and the depth of the table to the flat piece with the 2” tall piece over the blade, allowing about 050-060” of the saw blade thickness to protrude past the edge of the vertical 2” piece.

Install a very fine tooth carbide saw blade.

After measuring how much skin overlap there would be on the window edges, I wound the blade upward until it was about 1/16” higher than the amount of overlap. 

Now holding the window vertically against the 2” tall fence and squarely it, pass the window against the saw blade, this should mill out a step 1/16” by whatever overlap you measured.  After checking the fit to see that the window will fit flush with a little bit of extra clearance for sealant, I drilled all of the holes used to retain the window to the skin.  In my cases I had to drill the holes then countersink for the dimpled screws.

I found that lubricating drill bits and countersinks with Johnson’s paste floor wax helped.

Clarence

 

so then are you then notching out for fuselage skin as oppose the setting the table saw blade at an angle ? almost like ripping a piece of wood  except not ripping in two?

 

[Guest]

18 minutes ago, jamesm said:

so then are you then notching out for fuselage skin as oppose the setting the table saw blade at an angle ? almost like ripping a piece of wood  except not ripping in two?

 

Yes, you’re creating a notch or step in the window to fit the skin.  I started with 1/4” thick windows, but 3/16” would probably work as well.

Clarence