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  • 10 months later...
Posted
25 minutes ago, redbaron1982 said:

I'm planning in getting this to touch up mainly around the rivets, that is my where the paint in my Mooney chipped off.

My question is, as I can see the aluminum, should I first apply some anti corrosion?

I’m about to start working on the paint on my plane so I’ve been doing some research.  The product I am intending on using for prep is an alodine pen.   They are a little pricey at 200 dollars but seems like it will be a convenient way to prep really small areas like a rivet head.  

  • Thanks 1
Posted

If you’re in Southern California hit me up. I Can get you a few ounces just about every week of Matterhorn white jetglo (or Imron for that matter) rather than using car paint. That or we can spray it for you as a courtesy if you’ve already prepped it at no cost in between other jobs.

  • Like 5
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I am almost convinced on doing the following to fix some the small places where there is chipped or lose paint (mainly in the rivet heads):

  • First I'm doing a thorough cleaning (quick clean with detailer spray, then clay bar, after that Chemical Guys V36 and then Chemical Guys V38).
    • This has the intention to bring the current paint as similar as possible to the original color. So far in the areas I've tested the results are great.
  • Second, use scotch brite to remove any lose paint and also to remove some previous touch ups with pens. The color match but you see a small bump whenever the pen was used due to much paint accumulated.
  • Third, treat with the adoline pen.
  • Fourth, use some spray can of Matterhorn White to repaint these areas, trying to blend with current paint.
  • Fifth, last pass of the newly painted areas with V36 and V38 polishing compounds to help with blending.

First question, what do you think of this? Does it make sense?

Second question, regarding the Matterhorn white in aerotouchups.com, there are tons of different types, one seems to be brand specific (Beechraft, Cirrus) and others just different numbers, like K8704-2KA Matterhorn White 2K Aerosol or AF402-2K Matterhorn White 2K Aerosol. So which of all matches the best a 1985 Mooney M20J?

Final question, does anyone know were to get like a color chart for Mooney? Mine is white with two tones of blue stripes. I've checked the POH and I don't see the color specification anywhere. Although not now, I'm planning on eventually doing some touch ups in the blue parts so I´d like to know which color to use. As reference, this is my aircraft: photo

Thanks!

Posted
10 minutes ago, redbaron1982 said:

I am almost convinced on doing the following to fix some the small places where there is chipped or lose paint (mainly in the rivet heads):

  • First I'm doing a thorough cleaning (quick clean with detailer spray, then clay bar, after that Chemical Guys V36 and then Chemical Guys V38).
    • This has the intention to bring the current paint as similar as possible to the original color. So far in the areas I've tested the results are great.
  • Second, use scotch brite to remove any lose paint and also to remove some previous touch ups with pens. The color match but you see a small bump whenever the pen was used due to much paint accumulated.
  • Third, treat with the adoline pen.
  • Fourth, use some spray can of Matterhorn White to repaint these areas, trying to blend with current paint.
  • Fifth, last pass of the newly painted areas with V36 and V38 polishing compounds to help with blending.

First question, what do you think of this? Does it make sense?

Second question, regarding the Matterhorn white in aerotouchups.com, there are tons of different types, one seems to be brand specific (Beechraft, Cirrus) and others just different numbers, like K8704-2KA Matterhorn White 2K Aerosol or AF402-2K Matterhorn White 2K Aerosol. So which of all matches the best a 1985 Mooney M20J?

Final question, does anyone know were to get like a color chart for Mooney? Mine is white with two tones of blue stripes. I've checked the POH and I don't see the color specification anywhere. Although not now, I'm planning on eventually doing some touch ups in the blue parts so I´d like to know which color to use. As reference, this is my aircraft: photo

Thanks!

The first page of your first airframe logbook should have your colors, however your airplane isn't the same color it was in 1985 - colors fade. Take an inspection panel into a company that mixes auto paints and they can match the white and the blue.

Posted
1 hour ago, redbaron1982 said:

I am almost convinced on doing the following to fix some the small places where there is chipped or lose paint (mainly in the rivet heads):

  • First I'm doing a thorough cleaning (quick clean with detailer spray, then clay bar, after that Chemical Guys V36 and then Chemical Guys V38).
    • This has the intention to bring the current paint as similar as possible to the original color. So far in the areas I've tested the results are great.
  • Second, use scotch brite to remove any lose paint and also to remove some previous touch ups with pens. The color match but you see a small bump whenever the pen was used due to much paint accumulated.
  • Third, treat with the adoline pen.
  • Fourth, use some spray can of Matterhorn White to repaint these areas, trying to blend with current paint.
  • Fifth, last pass of the newly painted areas with V36 and V38 polishing compounds to help with blending.

First question, what do you think of this? Does it make sense?

Second question, regarding the Matterhorn white in aerotouchups.com, there are tons of different types, one seems to be brand specific (Beechraft, Cirrus) and others just different numbers, like K8704-2KA Matterhorn White 2K Aerosol or AF402-2K Matterhorn White 2K Aerosol. So which of all matches the best a 1985 Mooney M20J?

Final question, does anyone know were to get like a color chart for Mooney? Mine is white with two tones of blue stripes. I've checked the POH and I don't see the color specification anywhere. Although not now, I'm planning on eventually doing some touch ups in the blue parts so I´d like to know which color to use. As reference, this is my aircraft: photo

Thanks!

If you are just touching up chips, it’s better to just fill in the chip with primer and a tiny artist brush. There are youtube videos showing how professional detailers do this. This is what we did at the museum. Done correctly, the touchups are invisible. 

If you sand down an area and spray it, you have to match both color and gloss. Color is easy, but gloss can be difficult if the original paint is old. Also, you have to think about how long you want it to last and how much time the airplane spends outside. The only way to blend single stage polyurethane is mechanically using abrasives as you describe. The problem is that the paints have a minimum film thickness so the blended edge will eventually start deteriorate and become visible.  The safest thing is to mask off and paint an entire panel.

Skip

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

Rustoleum Gloss White seems to be a pretty good match.  Rustoleum also has an aluminum etcher primer.  Can get at Homer Dan.

Edited by Yetti
Posted
23 hours ago, PT20J said:

If you are just touching up chips, it’s better to just fill in the chip with primer and a tiny artist brush. There are youtube videos showing how professional detailers do this. This is what we did at the museum. Done correctly, the touchups are invisible. 

If you sand down an area and spray it, you have to match both color and gloss. Color is easy, but gloss can be difficult if the original paint is old. Also, you have to think about how long you want it to last and how much time the airplane spends outside. The only way to blend single stage polyurethane is mechanically using abrasives as you describe. The problem is that the paints have a minimum film thickness so the blended edge will eventually start deteriorate and become visible.  The safest thing is to mask off and paint an entire panel.

Skip

Thanks Skip, it totally make sense. I didn´t thought about the edges of the touch up being too thin and deteriorating.

What I saw in youtube, at least the ones that you cannot see where the touchup was done is to do it with a pen/pencil, as you mentioned, and then using a very fine sand paper (1000 and up) make the touch up flush with the rest of the paint. After that, regular polishing should bring the gloss back.

That's what I'm planning to do. Will try in one of the old touchup to see if I can make it "disappear".

  • Like 1
Posted
29 minutes ago, Austintatious said:

Holy god.. 25 dollars for shipping for a 2 ounce bottle....  SMDH

Well, my favorite auto paint shop will no longer mix paint in 1/2 pints so the smallest I can get is a pint. Last time I bought a 1/2 pint of Wanda 2K polyurethane in garnet (reds are more expensive) it cost $48. Then, of course there is catalyst and reducer....

Posted

Years ago there was an area about 1" x 1" with bubbling and peeling paint at the joint from the cabin to the empennage near the top of the aircraft.  I prepared it properly including alodine and used a rattle can white that I got from local parts store.  Using the layering technique that I read  here on Mooneyspace I peeled the tape back on every pass so that there was minimal stepoff from the new to the old paint at the boundary.  After sanding with progressively finer grit to the finest available at the parts store I buffed the area and applied some wax.  

5 years later even though I am the one who did the work, I cannot see a difference in color or shine, and I cannot it feel it.  I have challenged others and even showed them where it was done and they cannot find it either.  It is completely invisible.  This would not be appropriate for a larger area and definitely not for colored paint, but don't snub your nose at off the shelf white paint options for a very small area.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 3/17/2023 at 6:48 PM, redbaron1982 said:

I am almost convinced on doing the following to fix some the small places where there is chipped or lose paint (mainly in the rivet heads):

  • First I'm doing a thorough cleaning (quick clean with detailer spray, then clay bar, after that Chemical Guys V36 and then Chemical Guys V38).
    • This has the intention to bring the current paint as similar as possible to the original color. So far in the areas I've tested the results are great.
  • Second, use scotch brite to remove any lose paint and also to remove some previous touch ups with pens. The color match but you see a small bump whenever the pen was used due to much paint accumulated.
  • Third, treat with the adoline pen.
  • Fourth, use some spray can of Matterhorn White to repaint these areas, trying to blend with current paint.
  • Fifth, last pass of the newly painted areas with V36 and V38 polishing compounds to help with blending.

First question, what do you think of this? Does it make sense?

Second question, regarding the Matterhorn white in aerotouchups.com, there are tons of different types, one seems to be brand specific (Beechraft, Cirrus) and others just different numbers, like K8704-2KA Matterhorn White 2K Aerosol or AF402-2K Matterhorn White 2K Aerosol. So which of all matches the best a 1985 Mooney M20J?

Final question, does anyone know were to get like a color chart for Mooney? Mine is white with two tones of blue stripes. I've checked the POH and I don't see the color specification anywhere. Although not now, I'm planning on eventually doing some touch ups in the blue parts so I´d like to know which color to use. As reference, this is my aircraft: photo

Thanks!

Here’s the best I could do for you.

47287975-18C6-49AF-ADB8-221226944EA6.png

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