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Rudder Pedal Extensions


Fly Boomer

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You guys are making this two complicated;)

Mooney had two kits as shown in the drawing I posted: 1.5” which is just a short linkage, and 3” which has the U shaped bracket. When Mooney incorporated the 1.5” extension it was by merely installing the 1.5” kit during production. 

@Ragsf15e You can easily tell if you have the 3” kit because it requires a couple of screws through the rudder pedal easily visible between the upper and lower “treads.”

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52 minutes ago, Igor_U said:

yes, that's correct. In originals install pedal would be mounted to the other set of holes (nut visible on bottom left ) and brake rod end on the pedal hole you circled.

Now, that you mentioned it, I wonder what I have in my 67F. I spent some time under the panel but never paid any attention. I am 6'6.5" and always move  to the seat to the last stop on the seat rail and in flight I slide the seat to the pin stop for more legroom. 

 

Sunny and 29 deg. in SEA - too cold to spend any time in my hangar these days... ;) 

ha!  Weak!  It’s 16 degrees here in Spokane and I’m going to the airport to look at my rudder pedals!

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Dang, I don’t have extensions.  I would have loved the extra inch, but I guess I’m glad I didn’t suffer unnecessarily for the last 7 years.  I use the last seat hole or slide back in flight.  Here’s a picture for future reference…

12984860-D969-4FBE-AB7A-BEC459260A93.thumb.jpeg.d1c7a7096a0703eec378f00d17af0c2d.jpeg

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Summary….

1) no extension…

image.thumb.jpeg.0619ef0a41058c2d38eabe4fd1eda713.jpeg

 

2) 1.5” extension…

image.jpeg.8fa8ce2b0ebe3f0aec8310ae3232626d.jpeg

 

3) 3” extension…

image.jpeg.16a20bf212fce9c921ca01b238966633.jpeg

 

Now everyone can go see and know what they have…. :)
 

Note: the third pic doesn’t show the brake hardware (clevis and Rod) installed…

Those pics gives a good idea for where to put your feet, when flying vs. taxiing….

PP thoughts only,

-a-
 

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12 minutes ago, FlyboyKC said:

If anyone want to get rid of a pair please let me know.

 

Thanks

 

It looks like a small piece of bent steel with 2 holes for the 1.5” extension.  Then you shift the pedals to the back hole and use the piece of metal for the brake connection.  If it can’t be procured, you might think about owner produced?  The 3” version seems like a little more work.

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  • 5 months later...

This one has been all over the place!

 

I figure we need get to a real question of "what is trying to be accomplished?" 

 

With that, how many of us are expecting to have full control -  without getting brakes involved - to do both without taking feet of the pedals?  It seems as though you have to decide if you want to control both at same time or "stab" at the bottom  "rudder" then move up to the brakes as needed. on landing.  I have to admit it would be nice to have both. How many of us are "riding" the rudder without moving feet on landings? 

 

I have an 80' K with the rudder pedal extensions -  I cannot figure it out. Part # is T 20 115 -003 REV B, 24043887 03 /07/201J M43. Also, can someone please send me info on adjusting the length of the brake actuation rod? Do I have to pull a panel below or push the boot down?

 

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Yes this topic has been all over the place. I have the  3 in  rudder extensions.  they seem to be  adjusted right on the verge of  actuating the brakes. I don't think there is any way to  adjust 

 in the extension itself.  To order to adjust the brake rod, can someone please tell me if that is accessible from the cockpit or pull a panel from below? I would imagine there is a threaded shaft with a jam nut on it somewhere. Kind of a tight space so if I simply push the fabric boot way down is it there?. Thanks very much Recovering from surgery is my excuse.. 

 

Tks

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When I installed 3" extensions, I had to adjust the brake master cylinders in order to tip the pedals forward so as to not accidentally apply the brakes.

Here are the details from an old post…

The service manual doesn't mention this adjustment. I did it on my '94 J today. A bit of a PITA -- had to remove the cowling to get to the fasteners on the front of the left exhaust cavity and also had to remove the left nose gear door since the piano hinge is on top of the inboard side of the cavity, and, of course, someone had cammed out one of the screws, so I had to drill and extract it. But, after that the brake cylinders are easily accessed. At first I thought I'd have to remove the clevis pins to rotate the threaded rod end, but since the brake cylinder shaft is round, all I had to do was adjust the jam nut which rotates the shaft while the clevis pin keeps the threaded rod end from rotating thus allowing the length of the rod to be adjusted. There are flats on the brake cylinder shaft just behind the nut that, after compressing the spring, you can put an open-end wrench on to keep the shaft from turning while you check the torque on the jam nut when done. 

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Edited by PT20J
Updated with details from previous post.
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