Engine Baffle Wear

[andrew]

I'm a new Mooney owner ('68 M20G) and just going through the process of familiarizing myself with the plane and addressing any outstanding maintenance items before I get into the fun of flying it around!  I received my private licence about a year ago and so my first order of business is to get an instrument rating.

One thing I am working on addressing is the condition of the baffling.  I've ordered new baffle seals from Guy Ginby at Gee Bee after reading a number of positive reviews and am looking forward to getting that installed.  However, I've also noticed some wear in the forward right aluminum baffle piece.  I've located a replacement and will be installing that shortly, but I'm curious about both: whether this wear is normal, and the purpose of the iron red material (probably RTV) between the baffle and the cooling fins on cylinder #1.  I haven't noticed this in any documentation on the plane, and am currently assuming that it was applied to mitigate the rubbing that has now worn through the baffle.

Is wear on this piece of baffling common?

If so, is this RTV "bumper" a known and generally effective solution?

Is there any chance the rubber will compromise the thermal characteristics of the cylinder cooling fins?

When I install the new baffle piece, would you recommend removing the red adhesive material from the cooling fins?

Is there a risk of damaging the heatsink while removing the adhesive?

 

Thanks,

Andrew

[HartParr]

I don't have the RTV on mine and would like to know why somebody put it there. If it were mine I would remove and find out on my own why it was put there--reduce wear or better cooling. By heatsink I assume you mean the cooling fins? Well don't remove the RTV using a hammer, use common sense.

[Guest]

Any of the baffles can be easly made or like your doing purchased. 

Many people try to doctor poor fitting baffles with RTV instead of positioning and aligning properly.

[DaV8or]

Can't tell you why, but I can guess. I'm guessing that the rear cylinder was running hot and a mechanic came up with the theory that if they blocked the flow downward, more air would be forced rearward. May be a Band-Aid fix for something that really is wrong with the rear cylinder. I don't think it is a generally accepted practice though. However, I don't have a vintage C and so I'm not sure.

[jamesm]

I had the same problem with my '67C model. What someone told, me especial for the front cylinders where baffles are either real close or touching in my case. If you either put bead RTV bead on the baskside of the baffle facing cylinder cooling fins or  you could  add a piece  of baffle material between backside of baffle and cooling fins. I believe I used RTV glue the baffle material to the backside of the baffle. This way you get a gap beteen baffling and cylinder cooling fins. This method works pretty good.

Hope this helps.

James

'67 M20C