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Would like to overhaul or replace my Carburetor air box assembly


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The box has some cracking that maybe can be welded. I think I should definitely replace my valve assembly and plate bearing that rivet onto the sides of the box. I’ve not gotten a response from lasar. I sent an email to Mooney earlier today. 
 

what have others here done when dealing with this part? 

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4BBF1B7C-EB14-4931-95F7-0C452317448C.jpeg

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Aircraft spruce and McFarlanes have bushings and shafts for repairs.

Might be for Cessna or other, but bushings and shafts are bushings and shafts.

A weld or rivets, some repairs and your good.

 

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I think this part from Lasar might work if I’m reading the page correctly. I’m confused why it has a 20 where it says “compatible M20c SN 20-0001 and up” my serial is a 4 digit number.

also the carb heat mechanism looks much different 

B222047D-0783-4A7F-B768-512B6D05C9B7.png

Edited by M20 Ogler
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On 7/22/2021 at 9:33 PM, M20 Ogler said:

I think this part from Lasar might work if I’m reading the page correctly. I’m confused why it has a 20 where it says “compatible M20c SN 20-0001 and up” my serial is a 4 digit number.

also the carb heat mechanism looks much different 

B222047D-0783-4A7F-B768-512B6D05C9B7.png

That one is for the later mooneys 1970’s. The carb heat it not the same and won’t work with your airplane. 

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You are right on target Ogler!

That crack needs some stopping…

That wear needs some fixing…

Proper OH parts can really help…

Some more modern installs also had a piece of scat to better exhaust the warm air getting dumped from the heat muff… when not sent to the carb…

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic…

Best regards,

-a-

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23 hours ago, spectre6573 said:

That one is for the later mooneys 1970’s. The carb heat it not the same and won’t work with your airplane. 

Yes - '68 and later to be more precise - that was the year they did away with the troublesome butterfly valve for the carb heat bypass operated by the same cable as the main flapper valve.  I have the 2nd serial number for '68 and that butterfly valve-containing port is merely welded shut rather than missing as in this one (probably because they had stock of older-style airboxes to deplete at the factory).

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I appreciate your frustration with the stock airbox.  They are not easily welded as the old aluminum is typically loaded with intergranular corrosion.  It will challenge even the best TIG welder.  Even when repaired, the linkage for the carb heat is lacking.  I cut out the entire upper half of mine and welded in new materials.  This also allows for a recess in the upper portion of the airbox to receive the shutter door and get it clear of the carb airflow under typical op.s.   Not sure what the additional MP is, but at least I know it's optimal.

I have some "left overs" from my rebuild, If you need some help.  

First, get rid of those old "intake ingestible" (junk) needle bearings on the carb heat shaft.  Go MacFarlane elastomeric. 

 

 

Airbox 1.JPG

Edited by mike20papa
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