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Dropped the lower cowl on my C today


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To get a better look at what I’ve got going on firewall forward. And I found a bunch of stuff I want to replace. 

-Muffler has cracks on both ends a has been welded before I’m considering a power flow upgrade. Anyone think they worth it? Might explain why my CO detector alarmed when I tried the cabin heat.

-Carb heat mechanism is worn out and needs to be replaced. Should I try spruce, lasar, where do you look for parts like this? I added the orange adel today that help a bit the cable was just floating.

038F2A51-1A04-4E90-8250-816B58E82498.thumb.jpeg.1764429ccac16f9ec19fd0c2103e99be.jpeg84A187F9-F8B7-4B61-81FE-4FAA94B1F3FA.thumb.jpeg.9feccac8885bbe96892ace21b3f1dd27.jpeg

-I got a quote for all new hoses from PHT. I’m gonna order them today. 

-While the cowl is off I want to swap out the landing light for an LED upgrade. Anyone have a recommendation?

-I noticed some cracks in the skins inside the nose gear bay. Maybe from the 1991 gear up landing. Can these be stop drilled/patched w a doubler?34ED3E88-4F7B-496A-B78D-644D75ADCDF0.thumb.jpeg.a702f78c7c111e0b008c689f6cd69e12.jpeg0A877260-854A-44F8-A572-35841C150FE8.thumb.jpeg.fd386849076e97866c7fff32f5769218.jpeg

-The prop control cable is rubbing on the right mag P lead, any ideas how to get it off there?5804424A-11D7-42E6-943B-0FB3794FF383.thumb.jpeg.40600201fb275b827da9a68a30ad2b81.jpeg

 

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Just now, chriscalandro said:

I have a set of oil hoses for sale for a c if you want to save a few bucks. From pht. 

Thx, but those are the only ones that are still new because the previous owner did the Airwolf remote oil filter STC this year. Or are you talking about the ones going to the oil cooler?

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26 minutes ago, M20 Ogler said:

Thx, but those are the only ones that are still new because the previous owner did the Airwolf remote oil filter STC this year. Or are you talking about the ones going to the oil cooler?

The prop control cable is broken and needs a new one before you buy an LED landing light.  Once you have a new one add AN960-10 washers between the clamps and the metal brace as required to clear the P lead.

Clarence

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Surprised your RH Mag even works, that Prop governor cable looks like it has come apart and the cable looks frayed as well. Turning the clamps around would give you some room, but my guess is the bracket isn’t installed correctly either 

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41 minutes ago, M20Doc said:

Installing it per the IPC would be a good way to correct the problem.

Clarence

I wonder if they had to reposition the bracket due to the install of the remote oil filter lines. I’ll have to go look at the STC

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Yikes…

CO alarm with the heat on…

Please be aware how dangerous that can be…

Let me invite @DanM20C to the conversation…

 

review the work done by whoever thought using a control cable to saw the p-lead was a good idea… :)

how much voltage gets delivered by the P-lead?  That would give new meaning to the word ‘hot prop’…

 

Good thinking.  Seeing what it is that you got… better thinking… getting your plan together to get things straightened out…

PowerFlow mufflers are worth it… when you have money to toss at things to get another hp, or one or two more kias…. They are not the magic of having a turbo…  some early versions stick out into the wind… kind of missed the point of improving exhaust flow…

Exhaust system OH is the way to get what you have in new condition… for a few dollars less…

Best regards,

-a-

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4 hours ago, M20 Ogler said:

To get a better look at what I’ve got going on firewall forward. And I found a bunch of stuff I want to replace. 

-Muffler has cracks on both ends a has been welded before I’m considering a power flow upgrade. Anyone think they worth it? Might explain why my CO detector alarmed when I tried the cabin heat.

-Carb heat mechanism is worn out and needs to be replaced. Should I try spruce, lasar, where do you look for parts like this? I added the orange adel today that help a bit the cable was just floating.

038F2A51-1A04-4E90-8250-816B58E82498.thumb.jpeg.1764429ccac16f9ec19fd0c2103e99be.jpeg84A187F9-F8B7-4B61-81FE-4FAA94B1F3FA.thumb.jpeg.9feccac8885bbe96892ace21b3f1dd27.jpeg

-I got a quote for all new hoses from PHT. I’m gonna order them today. 

-While the cowl is off I want to swap out the landing light for an LED upgrade. Anyone have a recommendation?

-I noticed some cracks in the skins inside the nose gear bay. Maybe from the 1991 gear up landing. Can these be stop drilled/patched w a doubler?34ED3E88-4F7B-496A-B78D-644D75ADCDF0.thumb.jpeg.a702f78c7c111e0b008c689f6cd69e12.jpeg0A877260-854A-44F8-A572-35841C150FE8.thumb.jpeg.fd386849076e97866c7fff32f5769218.jpeg

-The prop control cable is rubbing on the right mag P lead, any ideas how to get it off there?5804424A-11D7-42E6-943B-0FB3794FF383.thumb.jpeg.40600201fb275b827da9a68a30ad2b81.jpeg

 

+1 Yikes on the CO alarm with heat on. Get that fixed asap.  I did the Powerflow conversion on my C. Advantages:  A ton more power down low (<7000 ft) for a carb'd mooney (much less so for fuel injected), more durable. Disadvantages: more expensive, a bit louder, a couple pounds heavier, more power means higher CHTs on our poorly cooling O-360 doghouses, extra 1-2 hours labor at each annual to put antisieze on the slip joints for the exhaust risers. The power gain is impressive though.

Consider putting some fire sleeves on those oil hoses while you're at it....

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Yes, thanks for the concern about CO. That was the main reason I pulled the cowl off. It peaked at 22 ppm during run up. OSHA wants less than 50ppm iirc. I’m looking for 0ppm

It’s a 55 year old plane. I’m expecting to need to fix things.

Edited by M20 Ogler
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+1 on the note regarding tyraps…. The nylon works great, but cuts other things in half…. Collateral damage, often wearing through aluminum tubes and things you wouldn’t think could be cut in half by a piece of plastic…

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic…

Best regards,

-a-

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8 hours ago, M20 Ogler said:

I wonder if they had to reposition the bracket due to the install of the remote oil filter lines. I’ll have to go look at the STC

The mounting bracket is attached to the governor using the governor nuts and studs.  The bracket is normally very close to the magneto, hence the need for washers to shim the cable away from the P lead.

Clarence

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Definitely go with teflon hoses and never replace them again.

Tie wraps ought to be outlawed. They aren’t the best for anything, break wires and I have seen one cut though an engine mount, it cuts as a little oil and sand make a great cutting compound.

But they are cheap. easy and fast so they are all over an airplane.

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On 7/6/2021 at 7:01 PM, M20 Ogler said:

 

-While the cowl is off I want to swap out the landing light for an LED upgrade. Anyone have a recommendation?

 

You need a PAR-46 size LED landing light (5.75" in diameter). I am a Whelen Aerospace Technologies (WAT) LED dealer and I carry the PAR-46 Parmetheus Plus for $300 and the PAR-46 Parmetheus Pro for $599.99. The Pro is about twice is as bright as the Plus. Here are some photos I took of its smaller cousin, the PAR-36 Parmetheus Pro versus a lower grade Aerolite LED landing light. You get what you pay for. You can message me here or shoot me an email at gallagheraviationllc@gmail.com

Edit_WATPro.jpg

Edit_Aerolite.jpg

Parmetheus_Series.pdf

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On 7/6/2021 at 4:01 PM, M20 Ogler said:

-While the cowl is off I want to swap out the landing light for an LED upgrade. Anyone have a recommendation?

I don't know how the C cowl is, but in the J cowl you can swap out the landing light without removing the cowl with a stubby ratchet and screwdriver by reaching through the cowl flap, although the first time I suppose it helps to see where everything is :) 

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3rd pic, if the crack in that lower firewall panel is too far gone for a stop drill there is one listed on eBay currently, no affiliation:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mooney-M20J-M20C-M20E-Firewall-Stainless-Steel-Nose-Gear-Fairing-Cover-/153894738562?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

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12 hours ago, OSUAV8TER said:

You need a PAR-46 size LED landing light (5.75" in diameter). I am a Whelen Aerospace Technologies (WAT) LED dealer and I carry the PAR-46 Parmetheus Plus for $300 and the PAR-46 Parmetheus Pro for $599.99. The Pro is about twice is as bright as the Plus. Here are some photos I took of its smaller cousin, the PAR-36 Parmetheus Pro versus a lower grade Aerolite LED landing light. You get what you pay for. You can message me here or shoot me an email at gallagheraviationllc@gmail.com

Edit_WATPro.jpg

Edit_Aerolite.jpg

Parmetheus_Series.pdf 1.53 MB · 0 downloads

I got the parmetheus plus from spruce. I wish I saw your post sooner. Now I wanna return it and get the pro. 

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