Glen Davis Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 In annual now. My doors are not closing completely. See photos. Should this be adjusted or is it acceptable? M20J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 Glen, you can tell by all the extra rivets of the doubler... and the shape isn’t exactly flat any longer... You might find another Mooney on the field to take a look at... If you want to swap out that part for one in better condition... find Alan... Typically the parts close together pretty well... Mooney has had a few decades to get this right... If the gap is too large... you might get vibrations... and associated wear... PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... Best regards, -a- 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 The leading edge of the main gear door has been repaired, but needs to be flattened to match the wing skin. The nose gear door should be adjusted to pull tighter against the opposite door. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_elliott Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 ..and we have a weeping panel fastener Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Ellis Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 Just for curiosity sake. In the photo that I attached, it looks like the area circled in red has been bent somehow allowing it not to seat flush and there seems to be a crack in the skin (area circled in blue) that possibly has been stop drilled at some point. Is that accurate or am I looking at the photo wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 9 minutes ago, Greg Ellis said: Just for curiosity sake. In the photo that I attached, it looks like the area circled in red has been bent somehow allowing it not to seat flush and there seems to be a crack in the skin (area circled in blue) that possibly has been stop drilled at some point. Is that accurate or am I looking at the photo wrong? It has a patch riveted behind the crack. That door has had a hard life. They get damaged taxiing through grass/dirt, or hard packed snow and ice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KB4 Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 8 hours ago, carusoam said: Glen, you can tell by all the extra rivets of the doubler... and the shape isn’t exactly flat any longer... Correct. That should be flat and laying against the anti-chafe tape. With crack, probably better off calling Allen. But until then straighten it out, where it touches the belly I can see where it’s rubbing the belly to bare aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 (edited) That row of rivets at the edge isn’t factory, it is from the patch. They should have put the flush rivets on the other side. As it is, the shop heads are grinding into your wing. Unless they did a double flush set. Edited April 6, 2021 by N201MKTurbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glen Davis Posted April 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 9 hours ago, KB4 said: Correct. That should be flat and laying against the anti-chafe tape. With crack, probably better off calling Allen. But until then straighten it out, where it touches the belly I can see where it’s rubbing the belly to bare aluminum. Thanks for your comments. I will have the shop try to straighten out the door as much as possible. Who is Allen??? Glen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MB65E Posted April 7, 2021 Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 A good guy here on Mooneyspace. He has his own salvage business. he might have a gear door for you. Yours is pretty neat up. @alan fox -Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Posted April 7, 2021 Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 @Alan Fox, need gear doors above. @MB65E, you've got to wait for the name list to appear then choose from it; simply typing "@" and his name won't work. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PT20J Posted April 7, 2021 Report Share Posted April 7, 2021 This works great for gear door anti-chafe. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MB65E Posted April 8, 2021 Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 Citation gear doors rub really bad. I like the fiberglass Teflon tape for that application. However, molded silicone door seals sound great! -Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PT20J Posted April 8, 2021 Report Share Posted April 8, 2021 Mooney gear door fit lacks Beechcraft precision. I actually had some silicone seals like Guy describes on mine. I don’t know if they were Guy’s or not because they were there when I purchased the plane, but they looked like the same material I purchased from Guy for the cowling, which works great by the way. The main gear doors are chamfered and that’s why the silicone foam tape works well since it provides some cushioning to keep the metal parts from rubbing. I got the idea from the IPC where Mooney specifies a foam tape for the nose wheel gear doors. It worked so well there that I used it on all the doors. Skip Edit: Here's a picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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