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68C Prop Governor Question - Cable Removal


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So what appears to be the factory prop cable on my 68C is toast; I'm not comfortable with the amount of force and panel flex needed to actuate it anymore.  I was working on removing the cable today so I can have a new one made (seems like only option is custom cable...can't find any for sale unless LASR has some pre-made) and got stuck right at the beginning.  Is this how its supposed to look? The bolt is too long to clear without hitting the governor or the cable mounting bracket.  Ignore the spilt oil at the bottom...that was my fault :)

Zd01OUq.jpg

Only options I see are too:

  • Cut the safety wire and remove the lever arm from the splined shaft. Problem with this, however, is I don't see how I'd ever get it back on (safety wire).
    • Probably would require removing the whole dang governor so I can do above
  •  Cut the bolt.  This only works if I assume this is not the correct config and the correct config would allow the bolt to clear

 

Looking at the Parts Manual, I think they screwed this up in the past...just like everything else I am getting into. *facepalm*  From this diagram, I think I need to swap out the bolt and washer stack-up for the proper config but I wanted your collective thoughts before I meet up with my A&P later this week.  I THINK this is the stock governor, but I don't know enough to tell....

K5PvRmu.png

 

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If it is a 1968 cable...

Go directly to step two...

Have new cable built...

Using owner supplied parts rule...

And the supplier of control cables mentioned around here a few times each month...

 

Also consider the other control cables for your power supply...

They were not intended to last for fifty years...

They do fail...

And hard to predict... or sense prior to the occurrence...

 

Most people take the opportunity to update the engine controls at each engine OH...


Was that a video you tried to post?

 

All I see is the do not enter sign...

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic...

Best regards,

-a-

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Pictures *should* be fixed?  And yes, I want to get a new cable (Throttle and Mixture are newer McFarlane cables), but I can't see how to get this one OUT to measure it.  See (hopefully) the pictures hah. 

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Somebody had to get it on there, so there must be some way to get it off. 

The alignment of the arm to the shaft is important. Dan at West Coast Governor told me he fixes a lot of governors where someone took the arm off and didn’t get it back on right.

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I got a Prop Cable from Southwest Texas Aviation for my 65, mine's a D but was converted like most which essentially makes it a C. I'm not sure if there were enough changes between 65 and your 68 but I would check with them. The part number for mine was 660189-005 and it ran me $451 a couple years ago.

www.swta.net
parts@swta.net
512-353-3455

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8 hours ago, N201MKTurbo said:

Have you tried taking it off, it looks to me like it will come off.

Have you lubed your existing cable?

Are they supposed to be lubricated?  Service manual says not for the J, but I’m not sure about the older craft.
813512602_Screenshot2021-02-23at12_50_28PM.thumb.png.81ecc0a14283922789edaf49be22e379.png

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1 hour ago, PT20J said:

Are they supposed to be lubricated?  Service manual says not for the J, but I’m not sure about the older craft.
813512602_Screenshot2021-02-23at12_50_28PM.thumb.png.81ecc0a14283922789edaf49be22e379.png

So, if it is stiff, what do you have to lose? Most of the seals I see are totally deteriorated.

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2 hours ago, N201MKTurbo said:

So, if it is stiff, what do you have to lose? Most of the seals I see are totally deteriorated.

Well.....

These cables don’t need lube because they are PTFE lined. So, if they are stiff, there is probably some place where the liner wore through. If it were me, I’d replace the defective part.

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