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Anyone want to go halves with me on custom door seals for a J model?


Glen Davis

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Few people know airplane seals as well as GB....

There was a time where MSers were getting money together for basic engineering work to get a drawing of an existing part made...

A go fund me page was started or something of the type...

I remember throwing my lunch money of the day in to help get it started...

I think this was done for the manual gear down lock block...

Just an idea if it is difficult to get other people on board...

Best regards,

-a-

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Typically... to make a piece of rubber, a long continuous shape... like a door seal...

A tool that is specific to the material and the shape is needed...

It also has to fit the machine that is providing and pressurizing the molten polymer...

Often this piece of metal is called a die... sometimes it is called a tool...

Supplying a piece of the seal... usually informs the die or tool maker all the details they need to know to design the tool...

The machine that the tool gets mounted on is often called a profile extruder...

At the far end of the extruder, is often a water bath, for cooling, and a puller...

Plenty of precision goes into extruding profiles...

 

We could always ask guy if he uses an extruder or how he is going to mold the part...

 

 

PP thoughts only, all stuff I read about somewhere.... probably not MS....  

MS does have a few extruder, injection molder, and tool guys... :)

Best regards,

-a-

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33 minutes ago, Niko182 said:

I'm a bit confused. I sent @GEE-BEE a piece of my door seal a week and a half ago to fabricate the door seal. Why does he need to fabricate more tooling? I thought the tooling is made once and creates the mold of the door seal

It’s funny because I sent him a piece of the door seal five years ago and had 30 people lined up for deposits and that whole thing blew up too.

The gift  keeps on giving, because my door seal was now too short to use for a door seal, I used it  for the baggage door. Then when I ordered a cabin door still two years ago the BA706M seal from Brown changed suppliers ,  and it’s like flat and crushed and that was crap too so now there’s no door seal options 

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looking at the parts catalog, it seems like the J, K, M, R, S, and I presume the TN all share the same Brown BA-189-139 Seal.

Sources in case anyone wants them

M20J: http://mooney.free.fr/Manuels M20J/M20J/Mooney M20J Illustrated Parts Catalog.pdf page 569
M20K: http://nctc.tk/mooney manual/M20/K/M20K_IPC.pdf Page 499
M20M http://www.nctc.tk/mooney manual/M20/M/M20M_IPC.pdf Page 401
M20R & S: http://www.softoutfit.com/static/refs/parts.pdf Page 323
 

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It sounds like the T11001 is the same thing as a BA706M and without the foam cylinder insert. But again, the rubber that they had it made with is so stiff it’s flat across as a seal down to a half inch of thickness, when you close the door and you can see daylight around it.

I even made a video of it and sent it to Brown and you know what year and a half later still not resolved. But look the old door seal that I bought brand new two years ago is round and cross-section thin and supple. The one on the left is the new version, it’s like pre-crushed flat, even flatter than the 30-year-old seal that’s on the airplane right now, it’s stiff, has no sponginess to it at all

48A0AB78-0E32-41E9-A0E9-F5045AB9346A.jpeg

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1 hour ago, jetdriven said:

It sounds like the T11001 is the same thing as a BA706M and without the foam cylinder insert. But again, the rubber that they had it made with is so stiff it’s flat across as a seal down to a half inch of thickness, when you close the door and you can see daylight around it.

I even made a video of it and sent it to Brown and you know what year and a half later still not resolved. But look the old door seal that I bought brand new two years ago is round and cross-section thin and supple. The one on the left is the new version, it’s like pre-crushed flat, even flatter than the 30-year-old seal that’s on the airplane right now, it’s stiff, has no sponginess to it at all

48A0AB78-0E32-41E9-A0E9-F5045AB9346A.jpeg

 

I wonder if anyone has played with trying an open tube with a smaller silicon insert. I did this trick on my F350 and it really improved the quality of the seal.

 

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13 hours ago, Glen Davis said:

Gee-Bee wants $295 for the tooling and $125 for a set of silicone door seals.  Anyone care to split the tooling cost with me?  The more the merrier.

Glen

917 297 1111

At $420 why not just go up to $499 and get the Bob Fields inflatable door seal?

https://aerocessories.aero/

 

D760CCEC-FF31-402C-97EC-0E3CA4DBE956.png

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I use boat hatch seals. If they can keep water out from sinking your boat they are good for me. They are much cheaper and available in every boat store. These seals have to withstand a more hostile environment than in a airplane environment.

https://www.bing.com/shop?q=west+marine+hatch+seal&FORM=SHOPPA&originIGUID=05AAB0C135294F16B29C8287E2D5DC28

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/19/2021 at 7:20 PM, Glen Davis said:

Gee-Bee wants $295 for the tooling and $125 for a set of silicone door seals.  Anyone care to split the tooling cost with me?  The more the merrier.

Glen

917 297 1111

Was this seal made from a J?  Looks just like the one he made for the long bodies in another thread.  Are they the same cross section shape?  I gotta see what my F is supposed to have vs what this one is copied from...

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2 hours ago, GEE-BEE said:

Typical half ass job

 

This post is reproduce a copy of oem seal in new silicone spec, not non aerospace material.

You win the half ass Trophy 

Possibly.  But since mine has a 5 year head start, let's check back in 10 years and see who's door is still not leaking.   Also you might want to check the aerospace spec on the contact cement that Mooney used to apply their door seals and the rest of the trim/carpet in the cockpit.

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Some years ago, I wanted to replace the door seal on my F. I went to a Mooney Service Center in Florida, bought the original Mooney  seal and got it installed by my mechanic. Result was that it was almost impossible to close the door afterwards.

So the mechanic had to remove the seal and bought a universal seal from Homedepot. This is not the optimum solution but it was much better than the part we got from the MSC. Maybe we got a wrong part which was made for a J instead of the part required for the F.

Gee-Bee,  do you have one for the M20F from 1967 available and what would be the cost?

 

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