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Door Seal

Niko182

By Niko182
in General Mooney Talk

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Niko182 Grand Master

Niko182

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My door seal is pretty old, beat up, and 21 years old, so I think I'm going to have @GEE-BEE make me a custom one out of silicon. I thought I'd let people know in case they were also interested in getting a new one themselves. A lot of noise comes from the door, and for people with longer hair, the pressure sucks their hair out the cabin, so I'm hoping this will solve that.

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PT20J Grand Master

PT20J

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The Mooney door fit is pretty bad. I replaced my seals with the stuff specified in the M20J IPC (Brown Aircraft T-9088) and had to do a lot of fooling around to get it not to leak water. It still has an air leak at the bottom which I'm working on trying to figure out since the seal seems tight. You can tell if it's tight by closing the door on a piece of notebook paper and seeing if the paper is held tightly or can move around easily.

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Ragsf15e Grand Master

Ragsf15e

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51 minutes ago, PT20J said:

The Mooney door fit is pretty bad. I replaced my seals with the stuff specified in the M20J IPC (Brown Aircraft T-9088) and had to do a lot of fooling around to get it not to leak water. It still has an air leak at the bottom which I'm working on trying to figure out since the seal seems tight. You can tell if it's tight by closing the door on a piece of notebook paper and seeing if the paper is held tightly or can move around easily.

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Mine isn’t right to begin with, but it seems pretty tough to seal along the bottom where the telescoping support arm folds in.  Either that won’t seal or it tears up the seal.  My weatherstripping seal is actually on the airframe, not on the door where I hear it’s supposed to be.

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Niko182 Grand Master

Niko182

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Since there is clearly some interest, I'll go to the airport tomorrow and send @GEE-BEE the sample for the seal. He quoted me 295 bucks to tool up the seal, but I don't know if that was tooling, and the cost of the seal, or just tooling, but I'll get more details tomorrow. I know it's more expensive than what knots2u brand is, but since It's made of silicon, I expect it to last a very long time. I have had his baffles for a while now and they look the same as the day I bought them, and I know a lot of people are also happy with his work.

Nik

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PT20J Grand Master

PT20J

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There was one brand of door seal that glued to the fuselage rather than the door, but I’ve heard it tears easily. I don’t think the material is the problem and silicone will need killer glue (Guy will supply that) to stick and then it would be a bear to replace if it ever was damaged. 

The problem with my door at the top was that the door is slightly sprung from previous owners or their passengers using it for support. At the bottom, there are no latches and the lower pressure outside tends to create a leak combined with a gap at the bottom of the hinge that creates a ram air effect.

This is the T-9088 neoprene sponge seal Mooney specifies.

69C3189E-E0E5-491C-A90E-AD8136B949F3.jpeg.b93fd7b229c460c23c2da8a09d3a0d97.jpeg

 

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jetdriven Grand Master

jetdriven

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they specify that on the later models. But on the earlier models they specify BA1706 which is made by Brown Aircraft seals, but they make it out of some thick rubber and it's permanently crushed flat and they don't seem to have any solution for that.

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N201MKTurbo Grand Master

N201MKTurbo

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I was thinking of a hinged plate that was attached to the threshold at the bottom of the door frame. Then gluing some magnets inside the door plastic. After closing the door you could just swing the plate up and it would stick to the door and block the air leak. 

But then again, I don't sit over there and the wife rarely complains about it.

Edited by N201MKTurbo
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Niko182 Grand Master

Niko182

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I'll keep posting pictures and the proccess. As for removing the glue, its definetely a pain, but i hope it will be worthwhile. My old one wasn't sealing the door shut anymore, so I'm hoping this one will. I have high hopes.

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