Battery discharges with master off

[Hank]

My clock runs for about a week or so. Winding and setting it are on the Pre-Start checklist. 

[tls pilot]

we will report again, that out Gill LT sealed batteries have really performed.

Nearly 6 yrs and when recently removed they still passed the capacity tests.

It is a shame that folks who have not used the new Gill LTs continue to bash them

A person should be informed about current products to make such decisions.

As to the draw on your battery, a simple test is to have a very good amp meter and measure the milliamps

draw with nothing on in the aircraft. Clocks usually have an inline fuse in the tail section near the battery compartment 

Other sources can be a fuel totalizer such as a Shadin and other devices.

Another test you could boost the battery and disconnect the wires at the terminals. A pain to do, but let the plane sit

and then go back and see if there is a loss. I know of at least one person who does this if they are not going to fly for a few weeks. Just a few thoughts...

[carusoam]

There are going to be two companies that continue to get bashed...

Because it was the response to customers that was terrible... worse than the faulty product itself...

 

Special bin for special suppliers...   Champion spark plugs... Gill batteries...

Very few people came back to try the new Gill batteries... the Gill company is now part of Continental Motors (CMI)

Kind of quality control by the customers... 

Having two batteries in the tail... I was averaging throwing out a Gill battery every year....

Call me bitter...  

PP thoughts only, not an expert customer relations guy...

Best regards,

-a-

[Brian E.]

Based on favorable recent reports I purchased a Gill LT sealed battery and have been quite happy in the 5 weeks of ownership.  Will report back of any concerns.  At a $75  (25%) savings it was worth the risk to me.  I'm hoping that I won't end up bitter about the purchase

[ilikethewoods]

Late to the party but, my M20f was doing this and I bought a new battery (mistake)! Then I started to do some actual trouble shooting and I found: the cannon plug that the master switch is connected to main feeder harness, had tons of corrosion. I mean tons! Cleaned, connected and it worked perfectly. It’s from 1976....

[bradp]

Disconnect negative lead.  You won’t kill your voltmeter with a small parasitic draw.  Run a lead from negative terminal to multimeter to battery lead/cable.  Measure amps (probably will be on the mA scale). That tells you if there is parasitic draw vs a bad cell.