What the trick with yoke removal?

[flyingchump]

So I need to remove the yoke for AD 77-17-04 but I can't get the tapered pin out...  Tried a few sharp taps with a hammer, didn't like doing that.  I tried squeezing it out using padded pliers.  It looks like this has fought other people, before me, due to the markings around the hole. 

Is there a special tool or technique? 

 

[Guest]

Back the nut off until it’s flush with the end of the threaded pin.  Have a helper hold a bucking bar on top of the wheel, but beside the pin.  Use a flush rivet set and a 3X rivet gun on the nut to pop it loose.

Clarence

[Wes]

FYI...take your clock out first...they don't like the impact. Ask me how I know. And yes there is a tool to get them out.

[Raymond J1]

I didn't like how the control shafts were when I disassembled the yokes.

I was able to restore these control shafts via the passage of a calibrated mandrel and then a check of possible cracks at the end.

The most destructive for the control tube is this headless screw on the side that must be tightened with care.

[carusoam]

Set screw = headless screw...

-a-

[flyingchump]

14 hours ago, Wes said:

FYI...take your clock out first...they don't like the impact. Ask me how I know. And yes there is a tool to get them out.

That's exactly what I did. 

I was tapping the tapered bolt pretty hard and I really didn't like who it all felt.  I'll try using a rivet gun as Doc suggested.  Although I might just wait and have someone do it at annual...

 

[JimB]

If you're hitting with a rivet gun, you're probably going to have to replace it anyway. And if you have to replace it, you can just drill it out. I had to drill one of mine last annual. Aircraft Spruce sells and they aren't expensive. 

[MARZ]

The rivet gun will work - but as said loosen the nut to the point the threads are FLUSH to the nut face you will be striking.  This will ensure you don't mess up the threads on the pin. 

[Igor_U]

IIRC, my IA used the special tool designed for Pipers.

It might be this one or similar:

https://www.aviationpros.com/tools-equipment/shop-equipment/hand-tools/product/10207241/aircraft-spruce-specialty-piper-control-yoke-taper-pin-tool

[RLCarter]

Sounds like someone “wrenched” down on it pretty good, one of mine was tighter than the other. Like M20Doc said, protect the threads of the pin with the nut or a sacrificial nut and tap it on out. Be sure you back up the yoke/shaft as it will absorb most of the “shock” giving you false positive on how hard your actually hitting it

[Browncbr1]

I use a puller.  Put the feet on the top of the yoke and tighten the bolt to press on top of the nut that you’ve backed off on the pin.  

 

[Nukemzzz]

My IA did my yokes this morning. He actually used a rivet gun to drive the pin out as suggested above. Great minds think alike I guess.

My shafts were ok but he suggests that I prepare to get some sort insert (?) on order as we probably should beef up that end.  He commented on how very thin the tube was is on these yoke shafts and this strange set screw that comes in from the size. I’m not so impressed this this design. Lol

Anyone away of this insert or repair part to beef up the end of the shaft?  

[carusoam]

39 minutes ago, Nukemzzz said:

My IA did my yokes this morning. He actually used a rivet gun to drive the pin out as suggested above. Great minds think alike I guess.

My shafts were ok but he suggests that I prepare to get some sort insert (?) on order as we probably should beef up that end.  He commented on how very thin the tube was is on these yoke shafts and this strange set screw that comes in from the size. I’m not so impressed this this design. Lol

Anyone away of this insert or repair part to beef up the end of the shaft?  

Often, people go to the more modern shaft....

The newer yokes come with that...

But, a few pieces of hardware need to be swapped out at the working end as well...

For pricing, ask Alan... see if or when he expects to have a set...

Best regards,

-a-