Vintage panel upgrade

[chriscalandro]

Interesting, for me it ended up within about 1/16 vertically and fit perfectly horizontally. I wonder why yours was different?

[Nukemzzz]

4 minutes ago, chriscalandro said:

Interesting, for me it ended up within about 1/16 vertically and fit perfectly horizontally. I wonder why yours was different?

Is yours vertical with lord bushings or mounted ridged?  Lord bushings pushes it back and then it hits tubes low on either side. I have really long hex standoffs on the top to make it vertical. When it tilts back it gets taller making the glare shield not fit so had to make it shorter. Basically I took yours. Stole the outer dimensions, tossed everything inside and inserted all my stuff. Then made prototypes and adjusted the outer dimensions and moved the stuff around inside. And still things don’t really fit. 

[Guest]

Just now, Nukemzzz said:

Is yours vertical with lord bushings or mounted ridged?  Lord bushings pushes it back and then it hits tubes low on either side. I have really long hex standoffs on the top to make it vertical. When it tilts back it gets taller making the glare shield not fit so had to make it shorter. Basically I took yours. Stole the outer dimensions, tossed everything inside and inserted all my stuff. Then made prototypes and adjusted the outer dimensions and moved the stuff around inside. And still things don’t really fit. 

Can you add a few more mounts on the lower edge to spread the load?

Clarence

[chriscalandro]

1 minute ago, Nukemzzz said:

Is yours vertical with lord bushings or mounted ridged?  Lord bushings pushes it back and then it hits tubes low on either side. I have really long hex standoffs on the top to make it vertical. When it tilts back it gets taller making the glare shield not fit so had to make it shorter. Basically I took yours. Stole the outer dimensions, tossed everything inside and inserted all my stuff. Then made prototypes and adjusted the outer dimensions and moved the stuff around inside. And still things don’t really fit. 

It had lord mounts, now it’s screw, nuts and washer stacks, but I test fit with the lord mounts and used those to locate the new holes. 
 

[chriscalandro]

Also, you’re going to have to keep the lord mounts if you’re keeping the gyros as they need to be isolated. You might have a hard time getting it signed off with those standoffs. 
 

looks like you can squeeze it together a bit more if you really wanted to, but I would probably take the path you took with the dremel. 

Edited July 13, 2020 by chriscalandro

[47U]

1 minute ago, chriscalandro said:

Interesting, for me it ended up within about 1/16 vertically and fit perfectly horizontally. I wonder why yours was different?

Might have something to do with the panel tilt.  Vintage panels have the horizontal bend in them and taking the bend out changes the angle of the instruments on the backside of the panel.  LASAR used to advertise a 9-hole layout.  I talked to Dan (few years ago) and he was out of stock, but gave me the contact for the CAD guy they were using.  Dan did sell me the standoff mounting kit, complete with the closeout plate against the center stack.  The CAD guy was getting ready to start a new gig so didn’t have time to work up what I wanted, but did sent me the .dxf files for the left and right sides.  I had a CAD buddy at work who modified the 9-hole .dxf for an Aspen.  Yeah, there’s a lot of hacking on the old substructure to get clearance.  When I got the panel mounted in the aircraft, I leveled the aircraft and measured the panel at a perfect 8 degrees tilt.  Dan’s (LASAR’s) standoff kit was right on the money.  The LASAR mount kit included ‘cups’ that the lower isolators go into to help prevent sag.  I also put the upper isolators up against the airframe, not against the panel for more wiggle room (I think).  

tom

 

[chriscalandro]

1 minute ago, 47U said:

Might have something to do with the panel tilt. 

 

I came from having the same tilt. I got the cad drawings from lasar as well but ended up not going that route.

I believe it ends up being about 3/4 of an inch tilt measured from bottom to top. 
 

mine you can’t see the gap because the eyelid covers it. 

Edited July 13, 2020 by chriscalandro

[Nukemzzz]

24 minutes ago, chriscalandro said:

I came from having the same tilt. I got the cad drawings from lasar as well but ended up not going that route.

I believe it ends up being about 3/4 of an inch tilt measured from bottom to top. 
 

mine you can’t see the gap because the eyelid covers it. 

To make my panel vertical I needed to add 2” standoffs to the top.  What year and model is yours again?

[Nukemzzz]

1 hour ago, 47U said:

Might have something to do with the panel tilt.  Vintage panels have the horizontal bend in them and taking the bend out changes the angle of the instruments on the backside of the panel.  LASAR used to advertise a 9-hole layout.  I talked to Dan (few years ago) and he was out of stock, but gave me the contact for the CAD guy they were using.  Dan did sell me the standoff mounting kit, complete with the closeout plate against the center stack.  The CAD guy was getting ready to start a new gig so didn’t have time to work up what I wanted, but did sent me the .dxf files for the left and right sides.  I had a CAD buddy at work who modified the 9-hole .dxf for an Aspen.  Yeah, there’s a lot of hacking on the old substructure to get clearance.  When I got the panel mounted in the aircraft, I leveled the aircraft and measured the panel at a perfect 8 degrees tilt.  Dan’s (LASAR’s) standoff kit was right on the money.  The LASAR mount kit included ‘cups’ that the lower isolators go into to help prevent sag.  I also put the upper isolators up against the airframe, not against the panel for more wiggle room (I think).  

tom

 

I actually ordered the right side panel and asked them if they could add features to it and they said no. To add features I had to measure and copy their $150 panel to load it in CAD. Then the waterjet place told me they can’t pick up the edges and needed to start with a fresh piece of aluminum. So that’s a $150 paper weight now. I didn’t think they would give me the CAD files!

Then I asked about the pilot side. It’s $250 and I saw a write up about installing it and how it was a nightmare so opted to just make my own pilot side so I could make things work with my specific gages. I asked about the install kit. Almost bought just that for $73 but they sent the BOM and it seemed to be stuff I could buy at Lowe’s. Maybe I should have bought it. Don’t know. 

I’m no noob with this kind of thing  9 years an auto diesel mechanic.  Hard work is nothing new to me and I’ll get this done  but be careful thinking it’s easy.  I’d bet this is a 6month job at my avionics shop...once they fit it into the schedule  

My point, after accidentally hijacking this thread: If I had to do it all over again I’d buy a plane with a good gage layout. Lmao

 

[carusoam]

Great hi-jack...

This is the kind of details... the OP is asking for...

The truth hurts... it is a lot of work... Or a ton of money...

The OP has already had a fully fleshed out panel in a prior plane...

Keep supply the great detail.

Best regards,

-a-

[chriscalandro]

20 minutes ago, Nukemzzz said:

I actually ordered the right side panel and asked them if they could add features to it and they said no. To add features I had to measure and copy their $150 panel to load it in CAD. Then the waterjet place told me they can’t pick up the edges and needed to start with a fresh piece of aluminum. So that’s a $150 paper weight now. I didn’t think they would give me the CAD files!

Then I asked about the pilot side. It’s $250 and I saw a write up about installing it and how it was a nightmare so opted to just make my own pilot side so I could make things work with my specific gages. I asked about the install kit. Almost bought just that for $73 but they sent the BOM and it seemed to be stuff I could buy at Lowe’s. Maybe I should have bought it. Don’t know. 

I’m no noob with this kind of thing  9 years an auto diesel mechanic.  Had work is nothing new to me and I’ll get this done  but be careful thinking it’s easy.  I’d bet this is a 6month job at my avionics shop...once they fit it into the schedule  

My point, after accidentally hijacking this thread: If I had to do it all over again I’d buy a plane with a good gage layout. Lmao

 

I have a 67C.  I didn’t go full vertical on the panel and shimmed there Adhars, but I did test fit it vertical. 
 

LASAR will not give the drawing files.

 

I don’t know about fitting the old gauges back in my my Dynon panel took 3 weeks from pulling out the first screw to putting the last one in. 
 

everyone said you can’t fit the 10 inch screen into the right side without moving a bunch of stuff. It took me a lot of measuring and tests but I made it go. The left side for me was the easy one actually. 

Edited July 13, 2020 by chriscalandro

[M20F-1968]

My rebuild/modernization of my F took so long that I went from a steam gauge panel to all glass.  I have this panel which was designed for my F on the shelf waiting to be used again.  It was in my airplane for a ferry flight and then replaced with an all glass panel.  The F and E are the same size.  It was installed via an instrument panel bow, but there are other way of installing again. You may be interested depending what equipment you plan on installing.  You can reach me here is interested.

The pictures are #1:  The steam gauge panel which is available.

                               #2:  My panel today

John Breda

[LantisPDX]

On 7/10/2020 at 9:53 AM, Clparker23 said:

I did my own in a 67F, this panel came from Hendricks mfg. it cost 2.5amu or there abouts, took about 20-30 hrs...Had to remove prop and mixture cables, good excuse to replace. That prob took the most time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your panel looks amazing! I have been playing around with solidworks learning how to design the panel I want. Do you happen to have a file for this panel or did Hendricks do that in the background?

Also between the left and middle is there a ramp down or how do the two panels fit together there?

Erik

[Tcraft938]

On 7/10/2020 at 12:53 PM, Clparker23 said:

I did my own in a 67F, this panel came from Hendricks mfg. it cost 2.5amu or there abouts, took about 20-30 hrs...Had to remove prop and mixture cables, good excuse to replace. That prob took the most time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very nice.  What engine monitor is that?   Thanks

[Hank]

50 minutes ago, Tcraft938 said:

Very nice.  What engine monitor is that?   Thanks

Zooming in, it says CGR-30C above the display.

[Marauder]

On 7/11/2020 at 8:07 AM, Flymu2 said:

Good point. But, the price of the 275 installed is about the same as the panel redo. Hmmm.

I would definitely look to simplify the panel with multi-function instruments. You can put all the steam stuff in the correct order but you can eliminate much of it with a couple of instruments.

[carusoam]

Electronics International.... aka EI for the CGR-30...

A very popular supplier of instruments in older Mooneys...

Best regards,

-a-

[Tcraft938]

22 hours ago, Hank said:

Zooming in, it says CGR-30C above the display.

Thank you.  My zooming did not give a clear enough picture to make it out.  

[carusoam]

Zooming first... leaves pics in a low res state...

Click on the pic, then zoom.... the best resolution is then used...

-a-

[Neshi]

Just finished the other half of min

the panel part not so bad as someone stated before.

The expense was in the new toys.

$4000 for parts and labor. $3000 pilot side Islip avionics $1000 copilot side Ventura

 

[SheryLoewen]

You could expect it to take 40 hours of labor , even with the LASAR Inc. Precut panel.