Jump to content

Vent door cable end


Recommended Posts

This post is for confirmation that some tinkering has been done to our vent door.  The first image shows the push-pull wire extended to (unsuccessfully) close the vent door, second image retracted to open the door.  I'm assuming the wire end should be straight and secured in a cable end B-nut or equivalent for adjustment, pivot, and open/close operation.  Instead we have what you see - tab on the door and wire end both bent to accommodate one another for one-way only operation.  So, unless I'm in error, the plan is to straighten the tab and wire end and apply said B-nut to repair - and hope nothing breaks off in the process! 1253723097_Ventdoor1.jpg.c74573006da1aa8985cbfc1bf5b61fce.jpgVentDoor3.jpg.aabf84c52699a7b99bbdb0c87d4de2fe.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What does the book say?

There will be pics in the parts catalog...

Guessing at how it should work sounds like a set up for further disappointment...

These slide gates are classic...

You probably have two...

One for hot air, one for outside air...

Both probably look alike.

Mine were very rusted, and liked to create drag over the year...

Each year they got cleaned and lubricated to work pretty well...

There was no way I was going to redesign something that kind of worked.... :)

Consider an upgrade... there are parts available to turn the slide gates into a valve that worked for longer than a year...

Look for how the cable is supposed to be held in place... an actuator  that isn’t constrained, can’t actuate...
 

No need to change the slide gate, when the push/pull wire needs the help...

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic...

Best regards,

-a-

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I envision an easy fix for this.  Make a small aluminum block and secure it to the slider tab with by way of the same hole the wire goes through now.  

Drill and tap a hole for a screw on the side of the block that will hold the wire, possible fashion and eyelet on the wire.  Another way would be to drill the block for a straight wire and hold the wire in place with a set screw.  Lubricate the sliding gate well.  All can be done fairly easily by yourself or your A&P, hangar elf, or friend.

John Breda

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe the correct fitting is a steel rod with a hole drilled through it axially and tapped for a #6 screw. Then a hole slightly larger than the wire drilled radially through it at the center of its length. If I remember there are two of these fittings, one on each side of the tab.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Carusoam has a good thougght regarding finding the pics from the parts catalogue. With that said, I think ours ('68 M20F) has the same parts here and ive included a pic below. I do not know nor have I verified that mine is original. But I think it is consistent with others comments. Bottom line... I think the bend in the tab IS original and you just need some fasteners on the wire to hold tight against the tab. I think if you tried to unbend the tab there is a good chance it would break.ede72097439d540f1409534b931aa7a6.jpg

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies - our service/parts manual isn't real expansive, didn't include pix of the heat/vent system nor was my usual backup (mooney.com) available presently.  Your suggestions prompted me to try again, whereby I found a free J catalog to inspect, thinking at least part of the system might be similar.  The picture of the vent door and attendant cable end isn't great, but good enough to confirm that the tab is supposed to be bent and the cable end (Wescon Products of Wichita) is linear instead of the usual 90 degree arrangement.  It finally occurred to me also to check locally (Muncie Aviation) tomorrow to see if their parts catalog would suggest pursuing Wescon further.  Using cable stops as moontownMooney has done is quick and practical if I fail to make it harder than it needs to be!   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

MA came through with the desired picture from their parts catalog that depicts the use of 3 wire stops as moontownMooney has described, so a trip to the NAPA Aero Dept should resolve our issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Fix was accomplished week before last with 2 wire stops to capture the cable end and 2 adel clamps to secure the cable in place.  3 wire stops were tried but restricted door opening too much.  The whole arrangement could have been better designed, but is at least now functional. 

thumbnail (1).jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.