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Posted

I do 99% of all my work on cars, motorcycles, my yard my house, etc.  After painting a some cars, a tractor, and a motorcycle years ago I learned that unless you paint regularly it’s hard to save money on DIY painting because of the equipment needed and the left over chemicals. If they can paint it for a reasonable price I’ll likely let them do it. 

I’m running around 75% doing my own work on the plane so far and that’s sometimes a tough pill to swallow. But it’s ok, because sometimes things I fixed didn’t work and that’s not a good deal in aviation. Lol

Waiting in a quote from AWi. 

  • Like 1
Posted

So Lasar called, the nose gear truss is on its way. While on the phone they told me that they are only authorized to fix an engine mount tube that cracks right at the mount so they can re-weld it. And they can’t replace tubes. I think maybe they didn’t want to repair mine since I said it was full of water in that tube and likely rusted  

AWI hasn’t returned multiple calls, emails, and I always get voicemail at the engine mount shop. So I tried Loree Air. They answered, was really helpful on the phone, and called back in 15min with a quote to strip the mount, fix the tube, add the missing SB at that tube, measure in a jig and check for cracks, and repaint it. They quoted a range of $1300-1700 and 4-6 weeks.

Does anyone have experience with Lorre Air?  

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Update...

I ended up going with Loree Air. They seem to be doing well. Good customer service anyway. 

The engine is with American Engine Company in Tulsa. They said the case crack was repairable and they could Have the case overhauled. I opted to go with a new superior case instead. I’m sorry, I don’t trust this old case. 

The rest of the engine looks good they say. However I want this thing to be rock solid when it comes back. So I’m also having them install new DLC tappets, a new camshaft, and the oil filter adapter on top of the normally replaced parts. 

  • Like 3
  • 1 month later...
Posted
9 hours ago, Nukemzzz said:

Flow up...Loree Air did a good job and they were very pleasant to work with. 
 

 

07BB4CC7-2BB4-4ED6-B83D-1D2AE4CB3020.jpeg

F7A7F495-5531-4423-89C9-B4B22E8F67C3.jpeg

I’ve always found it easier to fit the engine mount frame to the engine first, then fit the mount and engine to the airframe.  There is less chance of denting the firewall at the rudder pedals.

Clarence

Posted
13 hours ago, M20Doc said:

I’ve always found it easier to fit the engine mount frame to the engine first, then fit the mount and engine to the airframe.  There is less chance of denting the firewall at the rudder pedals.

Clarence

Very interesting.  I was just putting it back together in the same way that we took it apart.  I haven't tightened anything yet.  I need it there at least long enough to hang some lead batteries off the nose to push it back the maintenance hangar.  lol

Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Nukemzzz said:

Very interesting.  I was just putting it back together in the same way that we took it apart.  I haven't tightened anything yet.  I need it there at least long enough to hang some lead batteries off the nose to push it back the maintenance hangar.  lol

The manual isn’t really clear on the order, but I’ve seen enough mashed rudder pedal foot wells to convince me the the mount goes on the engine first, then the assembly to the airframe.

The manual does list engine mount to airframe bolt torques as part of the installation leading me to believe they meant the mount to come off the firewall.

Clarence

54434979-2153-40C1-9D92-397E25955B45.jpeg

Edited by M20Doc
Posted
11 hours ago, M20Doc said:

The manual isn’t really clear on the order, but I’ve seen enough mashed rudder pedal foot wells to convince me the the mount goes on the engine first, then the assembly to the airframe.

The manual does list engine mount to airframe bolt torques as part of the installation leading me to believe they meant the mount to come off the firewall.

Clarence

 

The old manual from 1966 just came right out and said it:

IMG_2484.PNG

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