tmo Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 (edited) Kind of a followup to a question from @M20Doc - I do know there is a screen to check, although I didn't find anything about checking it in the MM; I do know that I need a 7/8" socket / wrench to remove it. What I don't know is: - how tall of a socket will fit? Will I be able to get away with a tall one that will also work on spark plugs, or do I need two? - what torque to set when reinstalling it? - should I wash / rinse the screen with anything? anything I should avoid? (edit: ok, mineral spirits - M-0 says as much) - how many band-aids should I expect to need, or is the Continental easier than the Lycoming? Non-metric tools are harder to source here than metric ones, so if possible I want to get the order right the first time... Edited May 6, 2020 by tmo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM20C Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 18 minutes ago, tmo said: - how tall of a socket will fit? Will I be able to get away with a tall one that will also work on spark plugs, or do I need two? A taller one may work, there is a lot of room. But a taller one may make it difficult to get a torque wrench on it. 20 minutes ago, tmo said: - what torque to set when reinstalling it? 16.7-17.5 ft lbs per Continental SB96-7D 21 minutes ago, tmo said: - how many band-aids should I expect to need, or is the Continental easier than the Lycoming? None. It is much easier than the Lycoming screen. Don't forget the gasket, I keep several in my hangar. MS35769-21 Once I was finishing up an oil change the day before leaving on a trip and realized that I was out of gaskets. Nothing like scrubbing a trip because I forgot to order a 50 cent crush washer. Cheers, Dan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmo Posted May 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 Thank you; it did look like a lot of room from the pic my A&P sent me, but after reading the horror stories, I had my doubts. I have the crush plates / gaskets on the way, along with lock wire; already have a case of XC ($110), filter ($32) and a pint of Camguard ($50); need to order the 7/8" and 1" sockets and possibly lock wire pliers. Things like screwdrivers, misc sockets, torque wrenches and a sharpie are already in the toolbox; rags and assorted PVC tubing in the hangar and a new batch of desiccant for the dehumidifier in the oven. Not kidding about the prices, wish I was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 3 hours ago, tmo said: Kind of a followup to a question from @M20Doc - I do know there is a screen to check, although I didn't find anything about checking it in the MM; I do know that I need a 7/8" socket / wrench to remove it. What I don't know is: - how tall of a socket will fit? Will I be able to get away with a tall one that will also work on spark plugs, or do I need two? - what torque to set when reinstalling it? - should I wash / rinse the screen with anything? anything I should avoid? (edit: ok, mineral spirits - M-0 says as much) - how many band-aids should I expect to need, or is the Continental easier than the Lycoming? Non-metric tools are harder to source here than metric ones, so if possible I want to get the order right the first time... The suction screen doesn’t really have a torque value. Run it in until the copper gasket makes contact tank turn it an additional 1/2 turn then safety wire. The torque value above is for the spin on oil filter. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmo Posted May 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 Thank you sir; I thought there might be something in the Continental M-0 Appendix B, of which I can only find parts of. Kind of like I used to do with spark plugs on motorcycle engines those were the days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM20C Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 4 hours ago, M20Doc said: The suction screen doesn’t really have a torque value. Run it in until the copper gasket makes contact tank turn it an additional 1/2 turn then safety wire. The torque value above is for the spin on oil filter. Clarence I have never torqued it either but I didn't want to say for fear I would be chastised for not adhering to the service manuals I quoted the torque SB because I happen to have it sitting on my desk. It does reference "Screen Assembly, Scavenge oil", 16.7-17.5ft/lbs, for all O-300's and IO/TSIO 360's. I just noticed "Oil Filter Screen (w/new crush gasket)" 41.6-43.3ft/lbs, All Models. Is there a "oil filter Screen" on TSIO360's? I only see the "Screen Assembly, Scavenge oil" in the parts manual. Cheers, Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 13 hours ago, DanM20C said: I have never torqued it either but I didn't want to say for fear I would be chastised for not adhering to the service manuals I quoted the torque SB because I happen to have it sitting on my desk. It does reference "Screen Assembly, Scavenge oil", 16.7-17.5ft/lbs, for all O-300's and IO/TSIO 360's. I just noticed "Oil Filter Screen (w/new crush gasket)" 41.6-43.3ft/lbs, All Models. Is there a "oil filter Screen" on TSIO360's? I only see the "Screen Assembly, Scavenge oil" in the parts manual. Cheers, Dan You’re not alone, I don’t torque them either. Considering that the screen is no pressurized the worst it will do is drip oil when it gets hot. The other screen I think it refers to is the old pressure screen on some older engines. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmo Posted May 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 So, a quick additional question - are all quick drains either 5/8" or 1/2"? I'm pretty sure (don't laugh, my first rodeo with this horse) I have a quick drain, and it is smaller than the 3/4" wrench I could get through the cowling flap for a measurement, so that would lead me to believe I want a 1/2" (12mm) diameter PVC pipe. I'll probably get both anyway, but since y'all are here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIm20c Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 I’d invest in a reasonable quality set of SAE tools. Just keep them in the hangar, a cheap investment that could save frustration down the road. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 7, 2020 Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 5 hours ago, tmo said: So, a quick additional question - are all quick drains either 5/8" or 1/2"? I'm pretty sure (don't laugh, my first rodeo with this horse) I have a quick drain, and it is smaller than the 3/4" wrench I could get through the cowling flap for a measurement, so that would lead me to believe I want a 1/2" (12mm) diameter PVC pipe. I'll probably get both anyway, but since y'all are here... Are you asking about the nipple for the hose, or the wrench size to remove it from the oil sump? Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmo Posted May 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2020 Sorry, should have been clearer. I am asking for hose size to drain the oil, to put on the nipple. Assumption is the quick drain is working as expected, hence no removal from sump needed. If it is not, it'll be a whole different story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmo Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 When removing the lower cowl, do I really cut the ty-raps and then the taxi/landing light wires are on knife-style connectors that I can disconnect? 71-11-02 in the Maintenance Manual says so, but would like confirmation from the wise before I cut something I don't have to, or should not, cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 4 hours ago, tmo said: When removing the lower cowl, do I really cut the ty-raps and then the taxi/landing light wires are on knife-style connectors that I can disconnect? 71-11-02 in the Maintenance Manual says so, but would like confirmation from the wise before I cut something I don't have to, or should not, cut. If the landing light wires are ty-rapped then you will have to cut them to disconnect the wires for cowl removal. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmo Posted May 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2020 (edited) Thank you sir. Is starting up the engine without the cowl in order to warm up the oil a no-no, or a good idea? The airflow will be 100% random, hence the question. I can certainly just let it drain longer if that is the better approach. Since the oil filter is mounted horizontally on the TSIO-360, do I put some oil in the new filter before I install it, or will it fill itself as I pour oil in via the proper tube? Haven't found a definitive answer. As a follow-up question - is there an acceptable / recommended connector I can replace the "knife" style ones and be done with ty-rapping things? Or is this one of the things where the neophyte in me sees something worth fixing that really isn't worth thinking twice about? The newer models seem to have a "plug" #9 pn. 206060-1 shown in section 71-10-01 of the Illustrated Parts Catalog. Edit: is this the the $5 connector from AMP? Edited May 17, 2020 by tmo added possible connector part link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy95W Posted May 17, 2020 Report Share Posted May 17, 2020 Running the engine with the cowling off for 1-2 minutes to check for leaks would be okay- but to warm up the oil would definitely be too long. For the electrical connector, you could try this: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/el/cablecableaccessories_quickreplace/a444.ampconnector.php Or ask your mechanic about using an electrical connector like this picture. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 17, 2020 Report Share Posted May 17, 2020 4 hours ago, tmo said: Thank you sir. Is starting up the engine without the cowl in order to warm up the oil a no-no, or a good idea? The airflow will be 100% random, hence the question. I can certainly just let it drain longer if that is the better approach. Since the oil filter is mounted horizontally on the TSIO-360, do I put some oil in the new filter before I install it, or will it fill itself as I pour oil in via the proper tube? Haven't found a definitive answer. As a follow-up question - is there an acceptable / recommended connector I can replace the "knife" style ones and be done with ty-rapping things? Or is this one of the things where the neophyte in me sees something worth fixing that really isn't worth thinking twice about? The newer models seem to have a "plug" #9 pn. 206060-1 shown in section 71-10-01 of the Illustrated Parts Catalog. Edit: is this the the $5 connector from AMP? Short runs with the engine cowl off to leak check your work is fine, watch temperatures carefully. The oil filter on your engine should be installed vertically. I always pre fill the filter so oil pressure faster to rise. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmo Posted May 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2020 Yes, vertically, of course, brain fart; will pre-fill, thank you Doc. No warming up this time, so will let it drain for a good while. Brief power-up for leak check post change is OK. The connector is happening when the IA is around to pre-approve a type; my slight personal preference is the "screw to lock" type, but seems like anything of reasonable quality should be OK. Thank you AndyW95. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyWalt Posted March 25, 2021 Report Share Posted March 25, 2021 On 5/6/2020 at 5:29 PM, DanM20C said: I have never torqued it either but I didn't want to say for fear I would be chastised for not adhering to the service manuals I quoted the torque SB because I happen to have it sitting on my desk. It does reference "Screen Assembly, Scavenge oil", 16.7-17.5ft/lbs, for all O-300's and IO/TSIO 360's. I just noticed "Oil Filter Screen (w/new crush gasket)" 41.6-43.3ft/lbs, All Models. Is there a "oil filter Screen" on TSIO360's? I only see the "Screen Assembly, Scavenge oil" in the parts manual. Cheers, Dan Good morning all, What is the "Torque SB" that Dan is referring too here? I am in the midst of doing my first DIY oil change and I want to make sure everything I do is perfect. Thanks, W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kortopates Posted March 25, 2021 Report Share Posted March 25, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, FlyWalt said: Good morning all, What is the "Torque SB" that Dan is referring too here? I am in the midst of doing my first DIY oil change and I want to make sure everything I do is perfect. Thanks, W Current TCM guidace, like most TCM SB, has been incorportated into manual M-0 - their universal maintenance manual since around 2016. Torque limits are in an appendix B This superceded SB which was SB96-7D for torque limits - which I am sure you can find on the internet, but M-0 is really what you want and really mandatory for anyone swinging wrenches on a TCM engine - but no longer free. Edited March 25, 2021 by kortopates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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