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NU Finish safe?


J0nathan225

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Stuff is garbage.  Works on the airplane if you don't fly it much.  I use a fairly spendy aviation wax.  Gives the deepest shine I've ever seen, lasts a couple years even when I fly the wings off the airplane.

I don't even use the NU Finish stuff on the car anymore.  Meguirs is way more better.

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I have tried LoPresti speed wax.  (expensive so I only use on windows same bottle going on 2 years), Rejex, Starbright, and AirGlare.  Couldn't see the difference in shine all seemed to do that very well, but AirGlare seemed to last longer for me and when I went to wipe the bugs off 1 day, it went so easy, I didn't expect that. First polish I used the Meguiers Dual Action thingy with blue chemical guys hexagon pad polish pad, Second time around I used the red ultra finish pad. 

For clay bar, I used this with the chem guys clay lube, can make your own too.

61QQD1G11BL._AC_SL1000_.jpg  

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New synthetics, like Meguiars, are much better than Nu Finish, which was the shizzle back in the day but is pretty old and busted these days.    The new hotness is the ceramic finishes, which are actually a lot easier to apply as well.

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6 hours ago, KB4 said:

I have tried LoPresti speed wax.  (expensive so I only use on windows same bottle going on 2 years), Rejex, Starbright, and AirGlare.  Couldn't see the difference in shine all seemed to do that very well, but AirGlare seemed to last longer for me and when I went to wipe the bugs off 1 day, it went so easy, I didn't expect that. First polish I used the Meguiers Dual Action thingy with blue chemical guys hexagon pad polish pad, Second time around I used the red ultra finish pad. 

For clay bar, I used this with the chem guys clay lube, can make your own too.61QQD1G11BL._AC_SL1000_.jpg  

NuFinish is an old school all in one (AIO) product.  It works but it’s a compromise as it won’t last as long exposed to extreme weather.  If it were my plane I’d wash, clay, and if relatively free of scratches, I’d just lightly polish with a foam pad on a DA buffer.  Orbitals and wool pads are pretty aggressive. I’ve used Glare and Air Glare, as well as their Spider and Knockout products.  Glare goes on with just a light touch you don’t need a white film coated plane, just use the tool to lightly work it to nearly invisible. They aren’t the cheapest but they aren’t crazy expensive either (I reluctantly admit I own a $100 tub of wax.....) Spider and Knockout are polishes, so clay bar it after washing with a wax free car wash soap and water wash.  Many car was soaps have “brighteners” added that will fool the eye and will have an affect on polishes and wax/sealant.  Clay works with specific lubes, quick detailed, or make your own. Clay lifts contaminates off paint so you start with the smoothest finish.  If needed, work with a polish then follow up with a sealant or wax. 

Edited by Nick Pilotte
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Rejex is what a lot of turbine guys use to make it easy to get the black off. Gotta get everything off first with a clay bar or similar and then Rejex. You can wax on top of the Rejex after 24 hours if you want a better shine. It’s not the best shine but bonds to the paint. I do it once a year to protect it. 

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