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Tempest Oil Filter Stuck


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1 hour ago, MB65E said:

You know how hard it is for the pad to be free of oil? What the heck!! It drips oil until the new filter is installed. :-/

-Matt
 

I usually leave mine draining overnight, and the filter is often empty the next day and the pad pretty easy to clean.   It seems like different engines are different, though, so ymmv.

 

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So....

What makes the seal so sticky?

Most likely, what makes it a good seal, intimate contact with the surfaces, makes it hard to spin off...

 

Nice to get the direct response from Vince B.

Thanks for sharing the letter...

Best regards,

-a-

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The amount of gasket compression achieved with the specified torque, most likely is much higher with a lubricated gasket. 

With the dry lubricant, the friction causing the torque builds up quickly, with oil or grease on the gasket, you will have to squeeze the hell out of the gasket to get the same friction (torque). 

So, my theory is that if you lube the gasket and torque it to the torque on the label, you are drastically over tightening it.

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I have been using Tempest without DC4. I do wipe down the mounting pad, but it doesn't stay dry with oil continuing to drip out. I also use the hand-tight + 3/4 turn method of tightening. I have not had any issues removing the filters.

I do think the hand-tight + 3/4 turn method gives a more consistent level of gasket compression compared to using torque. 

When I had my J with the top mounted filter I would drain the oil and let it drain a day after flight. The filter was always empty and it was easy to dry the mounting pad. With the Continental I have now the filter is on the bottom rear of the engine. Even with the sump oil drained there the filter is full and there is plenty of oil backed up behind the filter in the mount. So unless you remove the filter and let it drip for a long time it will be hard to keep the mounting pad oil-free. This is very dependent on which engine and oil filter mount you have.

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On 3/29/2020 at 4:44 AM, Eight8Victor said:

From Lycoming:

 

87238681-5434-48E6-9931-86C0228F50F7.png

A stuck filter on most Lycoming IO-360 variants is just a nuisance. On the dual mag engines, removing a stuck filter can spin the converter plate and damage the gasket between the plate and the accessory case leading to a potentially catastrophic oil leak. When I had an IO-360-A3B6D, I kept a spare gasket on hand just in case. 

Skip

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25 minutes ago, PT20J said:

A stuck filter on most Lycoming IO-360 variants is just a nuisance. On the dual mag engines, removing a stuck filter can spin the converter plate and damage the gasket between the plate and the accessory case leading to a potentially catastrophic oil leak. When I had an IO-360-A3B6D, I kept a spare gasket on hand just in case. 

Skip

Good point.  There is also an older AD on the gasket, 2002-12-07.

Clarence

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I never use a wrench to tighten the filter on.  I spin it on and go. Half grunt with my hand, then back it off a little to see how tight it seated then back where it was.    Then safety wife kinda loosely.. then back the filter off to check that it’s still snug when the wire is tight, then I might tighten it back up where it was and give another turn of the safety wire.      When I remove the filter I cut the wire and remove by hand.   Occasionally I might need to a little help from the wrench.   I do all cars and planes this way.  I think using a filter wrench is over kill.  It doesn’t need to be as tight as humanly possible without a wrench.  Just a half grunt is needed

Edited by Browncbr1
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At his request I sent Vince at Tempest the serial number off my hard to remove filter.  He responded that my filter came from being made in 2018 and that they have made some improvements in the lube since then and thinks the more recent filters will no longer have the hard to remove issue. Very helpful customer service from Tempest I must say. I plan to keep using their filters. 

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