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1977 M20J with 1057-00-5G Actuator issue


DEGWS

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15 hours ago, DEGWS said:

Did also an extension with the emergency system. Very easy without any noticeable binding.

I am also able to turn the actuator with one finger on the rubber coupling.

Is it possible to remove only the motor?

It isn't too hard to take the motor off after you take the actuator out of the plane.

It sounds like a good time to clean, inspect and lube it anyway. The hardest part of removing it is undoing the wires, and you will have to do that if you remove the motor.

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according to my A&P, you can only send something like this to an FAA approved repair station....such as LASAR...

you can't just send it to a shop.  I do think LASAR carries the motor and I believe it is actually under $500...plus installation.  When I looked at my actuator, the motor to me looks like an off the shelf windshield wiper motor!

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I am in contact with Lasar. The answer after two day is that they found nobody who will do the motor.

I am sure that the problem is the rotor. Next week I will try to fix the rotor with a lathe of my friend.

But it is crazy... No overhaul or spare parts availble for the motor!

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5 hours ago, DEGWS said:

I am in contact with Lasar. The answer after two day is that they found nobody who will do the motor.

I am sure that the problem is the rotor. Next week I will try to fix the rotor with a lathe of my friend.

But it is crazy... No overhaul or spare parts availble for the motor!

Lube the landing gear.   Lube the gears in the actuator.   See if that don't fix things up.   There are bearing shims that need to go back in properly.   Sounds like your gears on the actuator rod may have gone out.

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4 minutes ago, Yetti said:

Lube the landing gear.   Lube the gears in the actuator.   See if that don't fix things up.   There are bearing shims that need to go back in properly.   Sounds like your gears on the actuator rod may have gone out.

Again, motor has no power, also on bench test.

actuator is in perfect condition!

Edited by DEGWS
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4 minutes ago, DEGWS said:

Again, motor has no power, also on bench test.

actuator is in perfect condition!

Then start with the brushes.  After checking the wiring for imperfections.

Usually it is some type of connection of wires or solder joint.  Very rare that the windings or such fail.

Edited by Yetti
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6 hours ago, Yetti said:

No where near as good as the old cutting oil with sulfur in it.   But it is good for fixing squeaky fan belts.

MMMMMM:-)   Black sulfur cutting oil- grew up in a machine shop and that's all we smelled all day long.

I have  a gallon in the shop right now!

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9 minutes ago, cliffy said:

MMMMMM:-)   Black sulfur cutting oil- grew up in a machine shop and that's all we smelled all day long.

I have  a gallon in the shop right now!

I have some left.  Probably going to be sad when it is gone.   But sure does make a mess.

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I owned a 1976 J for many years and was forced into a gear up landing because of the gear actuator, neither the motor nor the emergency crank on the sidewall would bring the gear down. This was in the 1980's and I'm not sure of the details but I was told at the time that Mooney upgraded the actuator to a different manufacturer very early on in the J's production life. I was also told that there is a SB for inspection on the actuators still in service, which I believe were made by Dukes. If your actuator is a Dukes, I would look into swapping it out.

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Today I have turned the commutator. Was considerably out of round. With the new brushes motor is running like new. Except the bearings are not ok. So I have ordered two new bearings and hope to get them tomorrow.

I think damage of the commutator was due to the bearings.

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Did you by chance under cut the insulators between each section of the commutator? If not that needs to be done , On larger normal generators we did it with a broken hack saw blade. You need to look up how to do it. You have to keep the insulators below the outer circumference of the  copper commutator segments. 

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